mcb

When I first saw that you where building some Aussieamps kit stuff, my thought was that if the amp is half as impressive as my Holton Five Zero Zero Supreme, then it will be a good amp. I have bass extension that I have never experienced in my room before. Also this is first amp that has made my current speakers "disappear". Several other amps/amp combo's have failed to do this. I can't see my Five Zero Zero being replaced (unless I get to steal a big brother of some sort).

It is hard to get enthusiastic about spending money with companies that carry on like this! Have a look at the following link - Here's how you can still get a free Windows 10 upgrade | ZDNet WWW.ZDNET.COM Microsoft's much-hyped free upgrade offer for Windows 10 ended in 2016, right? Not exactly. The GWX tool may be gone, but all the other upgrade tools still work. The end result is an apparently... I have followed this process a couple of times to reload Windows10 onto PC that had old licences, (which were updated to W10 during the upgrade period) but needed subsequent hard disk rebuilds.

For what it is worth, when I was running Audyssey, I would normally add about 5dB to the sub(s). Also, used DynEq, to compensate when running at lower dB levels.

Further to my response above, a bit of light reading can be found at https://www.avsforum.com/forum/90-receivers-amps-processors/795421-official-audyssey-thread-faq-post-51779-a-1726.html#post21782993.

To answer this, I think we need to understand a couple of things: i) what do you call calibrating; and ii) what is your new SPL Meter and are you using any software with it? Audyssey does several things, Sets relative volume levels, sets individual delays for each speaker and also applies room correction/Eq'ing. Bad results can be had by not being careful when undertaking an Audyssey Cal. Excellent results can also be achieved. There is an excellent guide somewhere for this, though I don't recall at the moment where it is. If you new SPL is just a $20 Ratshack jobbie, then it will just measure db's and not any of the other things that Audyssey takes into account. If you new SPL is a UMIK1 or similar and you are using it with the likes fo REW, then you can achieve a far bit more, but you still can not easily apply equalisation (that I recall). If just setting vol levels, I would rate the order as UMIK with REW then Audyssey, then bottom of the pile a Ratshak or phone meter. Others experience may be different. If you want to get real serious, explore UMIK-1 mics, REW and also using DIRAC with a MiniDSP 88A. This is however not a simple or cheap exercise. If I find the link for the Audyssey cal info, I will post it here.

There are also a couple of other good threads on SNA regarding MSO. This thread also contains a link to another earlier thread. These may be off use. I also found the following guide helpful https://www.minidsp.com/applications/home-theater-tuning/ddrc-88a-multi-sub-optimizer and most of the work flow applies even if a MiniDSP 88A or 2x4HD is not used.

Tuyen, that is looking a little bit serious!

I bought an assembled SP14 board from Roy about 6 years ago, which I built into a very simple one input only pre, which I am impressed with. Tuyen has heard this and I am looking forward to comparing his later spec board with premium parts to mine. The comments on the Sach's version are very positive.

Now, that is what I call a processor! Just like the rest of your gear, no half measures.

Yet another Elektra owner here. Have had a Theatron in my AV system for about 10 years. It would only be removed, if it was replaced with a newer model. I think it is the longest standing item in my AV system!

A comprehensive guide for REW is located at https://www.dropbox.com/s/zdhq72a1puyyxpr/REW 101 HTS Current Version.pdf. The associated thread is at https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/1449924-simplified-rew-setup-use-usb-mic-hdmi-connection-including-measurement-techniques-how-interpret-graphs-905.html.

For what it is worth, last year I bought an EZ950. My room is quite bright, but no direct sun. I was concerned about how it would handle the room , but found that it was better than my old VT60! I think the big issue is that many of the latest TV's are essentially light cannons, so whilst the OLED aren't in that league they still perform well in bright rooms. I would not go back to my VT60. At the current price, the FZ is a cracking TV at a very good price. Nearly makes me wish I had waited a year.

At the risk of appearing to be intellectually challenged, how does one get back to the point in the unread list, after going to a thread of interest, from the unread list, when using firefox, without using the back button? Using the back button used to work, but as noted now, does not any more( i.e. it goes to the top of the list, as noted above). Where does one find these cake crumbs (other than under the couch cushions)

Clay, Any further progress. This simplified version may be an appropriated replacement for my TKD 2508 Pot. I am starting to miss remote vol and mute on my DIY Pre.

I have previously purchased this cable from Cliff - http://www.cliff.com.au/products/Cables/speakercable.htm