mcb

Tuyen, that is looking a little bit serious!

I bought an assembled SP14 board from Roy about 6 years ago, which I built into a very simple one input only pre, which I am impressed with. Tuyen has heard this and I am looking forward to comparing his later spec board with premium parts to mine. The comments on the Sach's version are very positive.

Now, that is what I call a processor! Just like the rest of your gear, no half measures.

Yet another Elektra owner here. Have had a Theatron in my AV system for about 10 years. It would only be removed, if it was replaced with a newer model. I think it is the longest standing item in my AV system!

A comprehensive guide for REW is located at https://www.dropbox.com/s/zdhq72a1puyyxpr/REW 101 HTS Current Version.pdf. The associated thread is at https://www.avsforum.com/forum/91-audio-theory-setup-chat/1449924-simplified-rew-setup-use-usb-mic-hdmi-connection-including-measurement-techniques-how-interpret-graphs-905.html.

For what it is worth, last year I bought an EZ950. My room is quite bright, but no direct sun. I was concerned about how it would handle the room , but found that it was better than my old VT60! I think the big issue is that many of the latest TV's are essentially light cannons, so whilst the OLED aren't in that league they still perform well in bright rooms. I would not go back to my VT60. At the current price, the FZ is a cracking TV at a very good price. Nearly makes me wish I had waited a year.

At the risk of appearing to be intellectually challenged, how does one get back to the point in the unread list, after going to a thread of interest, from the unread list, when using firefox, without using the back button? Using the back button used to work, but as noted now, does not any more( i.e. it goes to the top of the list, as noted above). Where does one find these cake crumbs (other than under the couch cushions)

Clay, Any further progress. This simplified version may be an appropriated replacement for my TKD 2508 Pot. I am starting to miss remote vol and mute on my DIY Pre.

I have previously purchased this cable from Cliff - http://www.cliff.com.au/products/Cables/speakercable.htm

They are actually car subs, which some bright spark figured out made a good cost effective sub for HT. They are now discontinued. https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18918_Infinity-Reference-1262W.html There was a long thread on AVS regarding them, which is where I got the idea from. Not sure what the equivalent they are using now is.

I have a pair of SVS PC13 Ultras and could not pressurise my room, as it is open on one side and leads into other areas. As I was never going to be able to seal the area (short of pulling the house down and starting again), i overcame the issue by putting together a pair of couch kickers😀 4x12" drivers powered by an INuke3000. Our couch sits immediately in front of these. The 2 PC13's and these two are then combined using a MiniDSP 2x4HD and MultiSubOptimiser (MSO). Nothing like a good kidney massage😁

Things I found useful for using the 2x4 (and now 2x4HD, using the HD for longer delays), are: i) having the UMIK mic for use with REW and using HDMI connection to AVR ii) using timing reference, for assisting with setting up delays between subs iii) experimenting with different target levels, assuming that you are planning on using REW to set PEQ's iv) Experimenting with Multi-Sub Optimizer - there is a thread or two on this forum.

My understanding is that the 2018 models aren't released until next month. As the owner of a EZ950 (2017 1000 without the soundbar and absolute black filter), I am very impressed. If you go for an EZ, checkout and apply the recommended calibration settings, which are published on a couple of sites on the web. These, in my (and various others) opinion, are better than the out of the box settings. Also make sure you apply the latest 290b? firmware. This firmware has to be downloaded and tidies up some minor motion issues.

The DSP's being discussed here (2x4HD etc) do not impact on the overall calibration (mains, surrounds etc), only the subs. Most of us use the 2x4 to get the subs working at their best and then the AVR does the overall calibration. In my case, I have complicated it further, by not using Audyssey and adding a MiniDSP DDRC-88A into the chain, along with the 2x4HD. The subs are optimised in the 2x4HD using MSO (setting delays, gains and PEQ's per sub) and then the 88A sees the subs as a single sub. Hope this make sense.

Interesting comment by Al re the AS-EQ1. I owned one several years ago, and now own a MiniDSP 2x4HD. The AS-EQ1 was easier to set-up but from memory does not allow much in the way of fine tuning. The MiniDSP 2x4's need more effort to set-up but allows a lot more fine tuning.