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About SlimLim

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  1. Thanks pulse-r, at least someone agrees that ive selected good drivers. Building the enclosure first sounds logical, as yes, the response will be different in an enclosure, and real world sure beats paper theory. However even if you test it with this method first, then wouldn't your environment alter your results too? The test room, the distance you perform it at, your equipment, the angle both width and height of the test location, to me will all play significant roles in altering your results. I acknowledge your advice with making a mock cheaper crossover, however even if you do that, replacing the inductors, capacitors and other components with the same value, might not yield the same results. I've been looking up through different brands and quality of parts and they vary in resistance slightly from others. Is this enough to alter the calculations? Gut feeling says yes, but i'll let the experts chime in on this one. The crossover point, i would like to go higher, but the peerless hds seems to get a bit ugly beyond 2k. Actually you know what yould help me, a step by step process in designing a crossover. eg. impedence match the speakers first, then secondly choose crossover point etc etc - Nick
  2. Thanks for the input guys. Through the advice, ive taken a step back and reselected my drivers. I've chosen to use the scanspeak D304/6600 and the Peerless HDS 830884. Why 8" you ask? Well i want the bookshelfs to still have some oomph without the use of a sub. I'll be going ported. I've just started designing my crossovers. I don't have an electronics background, so i'm still getting my head around the design aspects. I've decided i'm gonig to go with a crossover at 2khz, 12dB slope and Linkwitz-riley type crossover. Does this sound good?
  3. The Scan-speak 3004/660000, to me, on paper looks better than the revelator in regards to spl vs frequency, on axis. At 30 and 60 degrees off-axis it doesn't seem that far off the mark. Has anyone had any experience with this, or even done a back to back with the revelator D2905-99000 or the D2904-70000?
  4. I'm curious as to what you designed pulse-r. Care to share?
  5. Thanks for the responses guys. The link is interesting rob323. I've also been reading reviews on zaphaudio.com Pulse-R, it looks like you know heaps more than last time i was on an audio forum. Are you dabbling in passive crossovers now? And unfortunately i'm not in melb. Aslan, appreciate the comments. Do you simply like it because of its bang for your buck nature, or do you think it is superior to other tweeters around the $200 mark? I will document my project. It's actually my first custom passive project ever. It should be an interesting learning curve.
  6. Hi Guys, I'm looking to make my own set of bookshelf speakers. I'm still inclined to use the revelator, but i'm willing to explore other brands as well. The price difference is also quite considerable. The tweeter will be used with the 6.5" Scanspeak midwoofer revelator. The Peerless 810921 or the Vifa XT25, which one is a better tweeter? In respect to detail, naturalness, etc. If it makes it easier, i hate metallic and harsh speakers and cant stand sibilance. Finally, is it better to have a good tweeter with a great midwoofer or a great tweeter with a good midwoofer. - Nick
  7. Has anyone ever had the guts to buy one? There seems to be a few on there such as : http://cgi.ebay.com.au/VA3-PRECISION-HIFI-VALVE-AMPLIFIER-STRICTLY-LIMITED_W0QQitemZ200208983630QQihZ010QQcategoryZ109837QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Markhill-Valve-Tube-AMP-AMPLIFIER-MC-6L6A-23W-NEW_W0QQitemZ360037461026QQihZ023QQcategoryZ109837QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I won't buy one, i'm just curious to what they sound like and are they worth the $$$
  8. Thanks guys. I've been around long enough in audio forums that i should of added more details to my initial post. I guess my option would be to get a receiver. Admittedly i can't remember from our old AV if i can bypass all the processing that happens, will I be able to do this? So basically i'm just using the AV for amp and volume duties. I am just trying to limit the amount of signal processing. Also are the M-Audio soundcards better than the SB X-FI cards?
  9. Hey guys, I want to connect a set of home theatre 5.1 speakers just purely for HT purposes and i want to know the best way i can do it. The speakers require 40-75wrms but i would like to aim for around 100wrms per channel. I am looking for something with 5 channels (front, centre, rear). The sub is active. My source will be a pc soundcard and i want it to be compatible to use blue ray technology. Also like the signal to be digital. (sound card hasnt been chosen yet btw) My questions are: would an integrated amplifier or the receiver be a better option? And are there any recommendations? Nick
  10. Hope it all turns out well fury. I will be checking this thread, let us know how the results go and how you designed your crossover etc.
  11. It will only be a CD player for now, though i am leaving my options open for upgrades. Really when it coems down to it, I just need some form of device that adjusts volume. I guess that can be used as a tempory measure. Call me Nick btw guys
  12. sounds a little different to cat audio where they swear custom passive sounds better than active. Anyways i ruled out the DEQX is that what you were referring too, and going to go with the DCX. I think i will power a pair of 3way floorstanders off 3 stereo amps. One for tweeters, one for midrange, one for midbass. If this is the case, how would the amp only see the woofers impedance, or is that only if i went passive. from this discussion i gathered i will also require a preamp for volume control and source selection. I am concerned of how much this unit will change the sound/image/depth. How much i should be spending for one of these units...seems to be alot on this site in the 3-4k region. What price range am i looknig at for my application? I wanna get a realistic budget before committing to this
  13. yeh i'm still new to the audio game compared to these guys. i think i'm in the wannabe audiophile catergory atm. Is it better to get a diy preamp, or just buy a unit straight off the shelf? I notice on ebay and a few of these threads that preamps have such a huge price variation. I will definately be looknig at 2nd hand units, as the expensive brand new units are jsut out of my league. I been reading around, it appears that the preamp is the biggest determinant of sound, imaging, depth etc is this true? From initial glance i thought it was just some sort of switcher between cd/dvd/other sources. Oh how wrong was I...
  14. ok so if my source goes directly into the DCX to keep digital with minimal signal loss then there is a problem when i want to upgrade to HT. when i go to HT say 5.1, the source would have to go into a preamp or processor of some sort anyway? The DCX wont be able to directly connect to the source unit. What then? Won't the source have to be conencted to a processor then into the DCX anyway Sure in the short term it would be ideal, but what about the long term implications. For my 2 channel applciation it would work, but i'm also considering my long term. and the volume control problem, cant i change volume with the DCX?
  15. Thanks guys. i knew the xt25 impedence could be overcome with passive crossover design, but i cant do it yet. AJ do u own aslan acoustics? Komodo, dont u think 1000wrms is way overkill for a home setup, i was looknig at units around the 200-300wrms mark. So, AJ, kmodo, terry, will the DCX perform the task that i want? that is filters, slopes, gains for a set of 3-way floorstanders. oh and with regards to the xt25, i'll jsut pick an amp that is 4ohm stable and use that
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