Tony M

I must look into this. Not for tea, though - I've never understood that stuff. I'm a self-confessed coffee adict - only 2 mugs a day but as necessary as oxygen. Mrs M has been known to take the phone away from me and tell the (too early) caller "He can't make sense yet until he's had his coffee". Occasional medical procedures that require fasting are my nemesis. I'm sure the diagnosis of dementia has been ascribed to me by clinicians/medical technicians that were unaware of my caffeine-deprived status. It wasn't so much dementia as the absolute fact that my brain before having its morning coffee is essentially non-functional. And I prefer not to do mornings anyway. Alcohol (especially red wine) performs essentially the same function in the evening - ie keeping me coherent................................................or the opposite as required. So, all this discussion of those nifty tea flasks has me considering the virtues of beverage-of-choice portability. Might cut to the chase and get a hip-flask instead!

In our neck of the woods, @Ooogh is the expert on tea flasks. He's rarely seen in the wild without one and some in his collection are probably prehistoric. He does tend to leave them behind quite frequently, though, probably some sort of strategic manouvre - like marking a trail if you need to retreat. Hopefully, he'll chime in with all the advice you need, Al. His opinion is worthy of respect.

Yeah, but prior to that he had a little shopfront in Angas Street (IIRC) for decades. When another pair of Apogees got damaged in transit on the way to me from NSW, Audioconnection got him to fix it on their behalf. He operated on the speaker on our pool table and reglued a stray magnet and replaced a treble/mid ribbon. I bought several items from him over the years and even sold some to him. He was always an interesting character to talk to and reasonable and honest to deal with.

Calipers $2,000, Duettas $2,100, Scintillas $1,250 (query re meeting reserve?) miniGrands $2,200 plus $775 for DAX. The Duetta's were the only ones I saw with all the ribbons apparently in reasonable nick. I missed the Calipers as they didn't have stands and were on a table somewhere that I didn't find. The auctioneer obviously had no idea about this gear - eg no idea whether it was "Per" or "Pre" amp. In particular, selling a stereo pair of mono amps seperately and selling the Apogee mini grands with the DAX in a different lot seemed bizarre to me. I wasn't bothered as the condition of the ribbons quelled any interest I might have had. Still, it was interesting seeing this gear again as it used to be owned by a well-known (now late) Adelaide second-hand hifi dealer back in the day. In fact I bought my first pair of Apogee ribbons from him 30 years ago.

The Melos preamps went for $600 and $625.

Hi Lazz I jotted down all the prices for the sale. Is there anything specific you were interested in? In response to previous queries, the Sunfire PA's went for $725 and $750 and the ML-3 went for $2700, including a "flat bed trolley" There was a 15% "buyers premium, though.

Relax, BB. The instructions say a narrow bladed screwdriver or 4mm Allen key will do the job as well. Now that I know what it is and what it's for, I've been able to read up on it. I hope I never have to do adjustment as the instructions also say if you stuff it up, it's not covered by warranty. I've never seen this sort of warning before in relation to an adjustment that they even supply a specific tool for.

Aha! That would be what they refer to in the instructions as the "limit setting tool" Thanks Marc - appreciated! Mystery solved,

I don't have an AVR - sticking to 2 channel stereo ATM. The base is flat- no thread. It's solid - nothing pivots.

I'm doing a bit of a tidy up and found this in a heap of leftover hardware etc. from the installation of my Screen Technics motorised projector screen. It's dark blue, semi-tranparent plastic and doesn't seem to have any metal imbedded. I'm stumped and apart form the fact that it looks vaguely like an aerial, I have no idea what it is or what it's for. I've read the installation instructions for the screen and can't find any reference to anything like this. So. I thought I'd enlist the help of the collective wisdom of the SNA members in my search for enlightenment. Any ideas guys? Is it something obvious I'm overlooking? I need to know!

FWIW, I'd be closely checking the ingredients to look for the prime suspect. I just can't imagine going from triumph to disaster being totally down to technique. Breadmaking must be pretty forgiving of less than perfect skills. I haven't got a clue and yet I've made a few successful loaves in the past and never had one that had to be scrapped. BTW, the pics at the beginning of this thread look so mouthwatering, I've been thinking of giving it a go again - inspired I am!

So, this is a thread about spectacular speakers. Well, the pic I have attached comes from the Victorian Real Estate pages and the standard pair of Duntech Crown Princes, as worthy as thay are, hardly meet the definition of "spectacular". But, it seemed as good a place as any to show a gorgeous picture of a pair of speakers looking totally at home in the perfect context of a piece of superb 70's architecture. To me the overall effect is spectacular as it looks like a place I'd love to spend time in and a home I'd really enjoy living in. Perhaps a function of my age demographic, but good 70's architecture does it for me and the CP's just add the perfect finishing touch. PS Anyone care to identify the electronic components?

Thanks for all the helpful suggestions and info, Guys. In the end I went for Selley's water-based KwikGrip. It gives a good, flexible bond and dries clear. I found it relatively easy to use and it allowed for a combination of the contact style bond and wet bond, which I needed as parts of the surrounds were still attached and I wanted to avoid seperating them completely to (hopefully) avoid voicecoil alignment issues. White colour that dries clear and water clean-up is nice as I tend to be messy with stuff like this. Full strength is 24 hours so I'll find out tonight if it all went as well as it appears to have.

As mentioned in another thread, I'm currently experimenting with 4 pairs of stacked Wharfedale E50's just for the fun of it. I got it all connected up last night and was disappointed as the sound lacked the impact I recall from previous similar iterations in years gone by. Further investigation showed that the rubber surrounds of several woofers had come adrift from the metal baskets part way round the circumference. As this is a "just for the hell of it" caper, I'm looking for a quick and easy fix that gets things functioning again ASAP. I think it will be relatively easy to squirt some glue into the gaps and seal them down. So, I'm searching for practical advice on the best glue to use for this purpose. Ideally, it should be quick-drying, flexible with gap-filling properties (ie some tendacy to flow and not leave gaps in the seal) and readily available locally. The contact cements that rely on letting dry to a tacky stage before bringing the bits together might be more difficult in this situation as some of the glue is still intact and the parts can't be kept seperate while the solvent dries. I'm wondering if this matters? I can theorize on what might work out of the myriad of products on the shelves of Bunnings et al. However, I'd be very grateful for advice borne of experience from those who have "been there-done that."

The very retro-looking speaker range is very interesting indeed. If it's designed and built to the same standard as the electronics, the possibility of it becoming available in Australia in the future is exciting.