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Keith_W

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About Keith_W

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  1. No, I didn't touch the structure! It was mostly going around fixing rattling doors, cupboards, windows, picture frames, lamps, etc. There are 6 doors near my sound system.
  2. This is the key to your question. If that is your aim, that's what people should be working to achieve. As others have alluded to, your problem is that big glass window. That wall of glass works like a filter - it will reflect high frequencies, vibrate and resonate at its resonant frequency, and pass low frequencies. Any attempt at producing more bass will just go out the window, literally. Furthermore, there is a high likelihood that if you increase the bass energy to the extent that you can feel it, you will introduce rattles and vibrations elsewhere in the house. When I moved to my four subwoofer setup (four subs built into two boxes), I now had bass that I could REALLY feel. Unfortunately, the house felt it too. It took weeks of playing bass test tones and going around the house with a tube of silicon and rubber pads to cure it as much as I could, but it turned out it was also rattling pipes and the framework of the house. Nothing I could do about that. If you take the advice of some others and hang heavy drapes, this will modify the characteristics of the filter. It will now absorb high frequencies instead of reflecting them, but it will still vibrate at its natural frequency, and bass will still pass out the window. The effect of heavy drapes would be to clean up the mid and top end but it won't have any appreciable effect on the bass - least of all, produce bass that you can feel. If you take the advice of the hifi salesman and install multiple subwoofers - this will work (unless the subs rattle your house to death before you get bass you can feel). You will need quite a lot of bass output to make up for what you are losing through the shape of your room and that glass window. But then you need to think about the consequences of losing all that bass through your window. In particular, you need to think about where your neighbour's bedrooms are and make sure you are not pumping their bedrooms full of bass. My advice: 1. Install those drapes. No point paying money for good equipment if you are going to let your room (which has a far greater effect) ruin your sound. 2. Multiple subs is a good idea, with the provisos listed above. 3. Be prepared to spend a lot of time fixing vibrations and rattles if you go down this route.
  3. Show Us Your Pics!

    Here are some West Australian wildflowers. All were taken in Albany, WA. The season was a little disappointing this year, especially when you fly 5 hours to get there, and drive another 5 hours to get to Albany! Still, I managed to find a few patches of flowers and compose the picture so that it appeared as if there were more flowers than there actually were Stony Hill, West Cape Howe National Park. Leica M10 / Summilux-M 28mm f/1.4 ASPH. Stony Hill, West Cape Howe National Park. Leica M10 / Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 ASPH. On the way to the Blowholes, West Cape Howe National Park. Leica M10 / Summilux-M 28mm f/1.4 ASPH. On the way to the Blowholes, West Cape Howe National Park. Leica M10 / Summilux-M 28mm f/1.4 ASPH. On the way to the Blowholes, West Cape Howe National Park. Leica M10 / Summilux-M 28mm f/1.4 ASPH.
  4. Multichannel DAC

    Well, I have two 8 channel DAC's at home. Neither are very good, despite one of them being a Stereophile recommended component (Merging NADAC MC-8).
  5. Yes, you are right. But it isn't always easy to find friends who own camera bodies which are 24MP to match my Leica ... AND 50/1.4 lenses for the same system You are also correct that I should have been more rigorous and brought along a WB card as well as use manual settings wherever possible. It was a bit strange that having been out of the Canon system for a couple of years (and owning a 5D M3 myself), I was all thumbs when it came to operating that 5D Mk2. I wanted to switch it to spot metering and fully manual ... I was seated on the park bench for five minutes trying to figure out why that *(&^)(&*^(*&% rear dial wouldn't work in full manual mode, before I remembered that the ON-OFF switch has 3 positions (on, off, and on with the rear dial disabled). I then discovered that I could not get consistent focus when using manual focus, because the 5D Mk2 I was borrowing did not have a ground glass screen and it's hard to focus without it.
  6. It's a little bit difficult to compare the lenses alone, Minty. Leica bodies have a microlens array in front of the sensor that handles the short flange distance of their lenses better. They also have a thinner sensor. Nikon/Canon lenses are designed for the longer flange distance of their bodies, so they would be disadvantaged when mounted on a Leica. I am more interested in what the system as a whole is able to do, anyway. Mounting a Nikkor lens on a Leica body is only relevant for people considering the purchase of a Nikkor over a Summilux. Palexia it may be interesting to do a comparison between your Canon 50/1.4 LTM and my Summilux.
  7. I would be interested in repeating this test with one of the current generation cameras, perhaps a Canon 5D Mk.4, a Sony A7II, or a Nikon D850. Anybody in Melbourne with one of these bodies keen to go out for a test shoot?
  8. And now we check for chromatic aberration (purple fringing). Unfortunately it was almost impossible to achieve the same focus on the Canon and the Leica - the rather confusing subject meant that I could not reliably pick a spot for the Canon to focus on. So I just autofocused on the Canon and hoped for the best. The Leica is manual focus, so the focus is on the center of the frame. Both were shot wide open, at f/1.4: Canon: Leica: Observations: - Both lenses exhibit purple fringing, but the Leica appears to have less. - This test (where the focus was not consistent between lenses) may not be reliable.
  9. And now, we have a comparison of the rendering. First, the Canon at f/1.4: And the Leica, also at f/1.4: Observations: - Unfortunately the Leica was slightly overexposed by 1/2 a stop which is why it looks a bit washed out compared to the Canon. EXIF says Leica 1/2000s, Canon 1/5000s (remember, for some reason the Canon says ISO 100, but it's really acting more like ISO 200 when compared to the Leica). - The transition from "in focus" to "out of focus" happens much faster on the Leica. Look at the naked Banksia bulb on the left of the picture - on the Canon it is only just in focus, on the Leica it is already out of focus. - The bokeh on the Leica is much superior. The bushes in the background look "busy" on the Canon, on the Leica it is smooth.
  10. Next up, we have a comparison at f/2. First, the Canon: And now the Leica: Observations: - Both lenses improve significantly when stopped to f/2. - The Leica retains its advantage in sharpness. Even at f/2, the Canon isn't as sharp as the Leica at f/1.4.
  11. I had the opportunity to borrow my friend's camera (a Canon 5D Mk. II with a 50mm f/1.4 lens) and go out and take some pictures to compare. The Canon was released in 2008, and can be bought on the secondhand market for $1300. The EF 50mm f/1.4 lens costs about $700 new. The Leica M10 was released in 2017, and costs $9500 new. The Summilux-M 50mm f/1.4 ASPH costs $6000 (i.e. this lens alone costs more than the entire Canon setup), and has a reputation of being one of the best 50mm lenses ever made. My friend, the Canon owner, wanted to see for himself how much better (or not) the Leica is. Procedure: - Both were shot in aperture priority and auto white balance, on tripods. - Leica was focused using live view and focus peaking, Canon was aimed at the same spot and shot using autofocus. - Both were set at ISO 100. You will note that the Canon seems to have one stop faster light sensitivity - where the Leica will be at 1/4000, Canon 1/8000 - Both were shot in RAW and processed in Lightroom without any adjustments - The Canon 5D Mk2 is a 21.1MP camera using the Canon EF 50/1.4 lens - The Leica M10 is 24MP camera using the Summilux ASPH 50/1.4 Here is the first series, both shot at f/1.4. First is the resized full picture, followed by a 100% crop. And here is the Leica: Observations: - The Canon has a warmer colour cast, and the Leica is cooler. I am not sure whether this was because of the lens, or because the auto white balance worked differently on both cameras. - The Leica has visible vignetting at f/1.4. The Canon has no vignetting. - The Leica lens is visibly sharper wide open with much better contrast and better detail retrieval - The Leica sensor is also superior (bearing in mind this is a 2008 model Canon 5D) - the clouds look much better on the Leica.
  12. Bluetooth Silicone Keyboards for PC

    Why do you want a silicon keyboard? The typing experience is awful. I guess the only reason would be if you are using it in an area where it might get wet? I do own a wireless (non Bluetooth) keyboard - the K830. It has all the features I need - illuminated, rechargable battery, built in touchpad and mouse buttons, media buttons, and wireless connectivity. It's rather small, making the typing experience a little unsatisfactory, but it would be miles better than a silicon keyboard.
  13. Blade Runner 2049

    I watched it tonight. Funny you say that, because he was pretty wooden in this film. But then, the guy is a replicant. So maybe they are meant to be wooden like that. I absolutely loved it. Tubularbells is spot on - respectful to the original, and it's more dialogue than action. Oh yeah, I found the dialogue at times difficult to hear in my cinema (Chadstone) also.
  14. GTG 22nd Oct 2017. Richmond hifi society.

    I'd love to come too!
  15. Blade Runner 2049

    Great to hear! I'll definitely go and watch it.
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