Decky

What do you mean "used to". Fake news dude 🤨. Good preamp by the way.

You should never use 4 subs with a half a wall. 😑🙃

https://www.sgrhifiracks.com/

iView apps were generally crap on almost all platforms I used them.

You can blame Telstra for that. The original Roku is absolutely seamless in all aspects. You can also blame slow internet speeds in Oz - that more than anything else.

Can you buy Roku in Oz? That is way better than any Apple TV.

Just multiply everything by Pi and you should be right 😵, or not, if that is what you desire.

Are you trying to imply that are no great guitar solos outside music? Are you discriminating against air guitar players? Hmmmm...where is this world going - first Trump and now this....😶

+1 Annoying!

My school of thought is slightly different. Flux residue can be (semi)conductive and cause leak currents and increase corrosion over time. "No-clean" does not mean that after-solder cleaning is not required. Some reading material on the topic but there are many more: https://www.kester.com/Portals/0/Documents/Knowledge Base/Publications/International Conference on Soldering and Reliability ICSR 2016_paper_Why Clean A No-Clean Flux.pdf?ver=2017-01-26-102146-280 http://www.circuitnet.com/experts/56589.html @Zaphod Beeblebrox - please refrain from using capital letters - it has been one of the rules on this and any other forum for a very long time. There is no need to shout. Everyone has an opinion - let's share them in a civilized manner so we can learn something from one another. Also - IPA cannot damage the FR4/G10 or phenolic based PCB laminate material. On the other hand, acetone can and should not be used at all.

They look ok but if you have any doubts just re-run sole solder over them. Also clean that board with IPA afterwards.

Don't waste your time - listen to ZB. Low ESR should go in - forget about the writing on the wall - it is not real. Well, nothing is real anyway.

Thanks, but I have a bunch of them - gold plating does not do anything really - $2 ones from Jaycar will do the job. These can be very light cables, so no need for any special casing of the connector - just some heat-shrink and proper strain relief where the connector crimps to the cable. I already made two signal only cables (no power) - they work as a charm.

Due to my recent difficulties with Amanero/USB3 and out of curiosity I did a bit of a search for various USB cabling options - from commercial to DIY. I was mainly interested in separate signal and power wires with dual type A connectors. The main driver for this was Kingwa's clever powering of the Amanero board in his DACs. He does not use 5V from computer but provides clean power from one of the internal DAC rails. That means that the DAC can be fed by USB signal wires only (pin 1 NC). Obviously DIY option is cheaper and provides more space for experimentation - hence, two solutions that worked very well in this role: 1. 90ohm twin-axial cable from Mouser - https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/538-100068-0115 It matches the required impedance perfectly and it is perfect for digital signals - silver plated copper, solid core, foil shield with a drain wire. Very easy to terminate. 2. MIL spec shielded twisted pair also from Mouser: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/650-55A1121-24-6-9-9 No claimed impedance but based on my calculation it should be between 95 and 100ohms, still within the USB standard tolerance. It can be used for both signal and power if one wants to build a complete USB cable. It is more rugged than the twin-axial one but still light and flexible. Another option is to combine 1 for signal and 2 for power for a complete USB cable. Both of these work very well - without going into "how they sound". For that part, solder those wires and use your ears.

You are probably fine but there is no reason going for ebay or any other second hand source - just stick to the major suppliers. Even with them you can get screwed. In fact anything critical - semiconductors especially - coming from second hand sources is almost 100% fake.