Decky

You have to be careful mate - what sort of a power we are talking about 120V or 240V - is it certified or not. What if your system catches fire and insurance refuses to pay. Soooo many variables with desert islands - also what sort of a desert is it - sand, stone, ice - all of the above. Lack of humidity can also ruin your sound stage perception. You have to be careful about those things. Unless we are talking about Tasmania after the epidemic - then you should be fine.

A hypothetical question: If we are faced with a situation where we have only one respirator available that has US mains cable and it was not certified for AUS/NZ (although capable of working on 240V). What would you guys do - use it regardless and try to safe someones life or wait for the next available electrical safety technician to certify it first?

Are we really going to do this all over again? Every 2 months someone asks a similar question and the same group of people gives them the same half-informed answers. I would really like to know why anyone thinks that any US approved plug or socket would not be electrically compliant with AUS/NZ mains standards? ...and no, insurance will not refuse to payout only because someone uses US plugs or sockets. Insurance needs to prove how the fire started and if any electrical device in the house actually contributed to the fire or not.

Good start but how do you model human emotions? That is for starters your most significant variable in this whole conundrum. Then you go into psychology and self-reinforcing statements that our brain serves us when we are trying to justify our own behaviour and put it against social norms. Without that everything else is meaningless and it is maybe better to just follow objective measurements that we can do on components and leave human brain alone. With that, we should always take any personal perception, being that audio or any other, with a huge grain of salt. Maybe even Himalayan grain of salt.

I don't see a particularly good reason why it has to be active. Variable yes, but active??? Your room modes are not changing and generally you are dealing with one of them. I guess because active sounds better than passive ?

Build -> use -> sell ->repeat Usually I would manage to get the value of parts back to finance the next build. Labour value goes against the value of use and experience. On the other hand, the value of having my hands and brain busy and the feeling of achievement is always priceless.

You should be able to tune the compliance of the pads and suit them better to the load they have to carry - drill larger holes in them or cut the pads to make the contact area smaller. You will maximize energy absorption if you allow for more static travel under load - roughly 30-50% of the unloaded state. With stiff rubber that can be fairly difficult to achieve but it does not hurt to try and play with them a bit.

Who is providing cable connection in Oz ATM?

https://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/subwoofer/index.htm Belden 1695A for longer runs. $70 US for 20' length.

For example how do you measure the quantum displacement filed that is oscillating at the speed of light and potentially opening a rupture in the time-space reality where all bass frequencies can easily escape and lead to less timbre, colour and presentation in sound waves. I bet you will need to use some quantum purifiers in that case to amplify the field.

This must be one of ever-repeating SNA classics. A buzz and a hum are two different things - very different things. Humming is generally 50Hz / 60Hz noise coming from speakers (not amps) and it is caused by ground loops. On the other hand ground loops are not "solved" by using 2-prong power cables, but in most of the cases can be safely tested by that method. If the noise stops than the problem has to be addressed by someone who knows how the grounding in the equipment involved works. Buzzing can be caused by million and one different thing and usually has nothing to do with grounding. The most common buzz noise can come from a damaged damaged or poorly terminated signal cable . The second on the list is cracked solder joints and then transformer issues, damaged semi-conductor components that are about to die etc etc. Firstly - is the amp buzzing without the sub being connected to it? If it does, take it to a service. The second point to check - change signal cables and see if anything changes. Thirdly, try the 2-prong power cable approach - if the buzz stops, you have to make sure that the component that uses that power cable is designed for that (double insulation etc)

Sometimes I feel that psycho-acoustics is the only reason why this whole industry exists.

Maaan - they are like Hare Krishna on crystal meth...scary stuff.

I came here to learn what is "mudic" yet I leave disappointed 😒

I had the same opinion some time ago and then I started using SGR active speakers and proved myself wrong so many times. It all depends on the placement, source mixing, personal preferences. If one is really into HT then a good centre is a must. Instead of spending money I would agree with the second suggestion - push the volume up 3dB at least and see how it goes.