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Decky last won the day on June 2 2013

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About Decky

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  1. Definitely very important on sealed boxes. Super important on sealed subs or any lower freq enclosures. Not so much for ported enclosures.
  2. Nope - Buddha is mine. 😎 Buddha was working on quantum purification of signals by elimination of quark turbulent fields from Cooper pair interactions when signal passes through the output transistors.
  3. I got everything from Madisound: Caps: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/claritycap-caps/ Coils: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/goertz-12-awg/ Resistors: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/mundorf-10-watt/ Not cheap but feel free to adjust the quality/price ration based on your budget and needs. Crossover design is perfect - no need for changes - just replace components and find a decent way of securing them (inside or outside the cabinets). It is good idea to replace the binding posts. I used Eichmanns - best value for money in my opinion. Soundlabs Group is a good local source: http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/c/Capacitors/Capacitors.html http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/ETI-Cablepod/ETI+Research+Cable+Pod+Binding+Post
  4. There is a gasket around the terminal plate. You can try passing an allen key through the terminal holes and puling hard or what others suggested; remove the woofer first and push the plate out from inside. The crossover parts in DM X/7 series are nothing to write home about. The speaker will sound way better if you can rebuild the crossover with some decent caps and coils. I rebuilt DM2/7 with great success in the past. The drivers are the best part of those speakers - cabinets and Xovers not so much - hence the low price. Trick to remove drivers with tightly bonded gaskets: remove the screws, use couple of symmetrically positioned screws one size larger than the speaker holes (M5 for M4 holes, for example) and force-screw them in so their thread binds hard into the speaker basket holes. Now you can pull against the screw heads by using pliers or similar tools (use a piece of plastic or wood under the tool to protect the speaker face from damage). Try to pull straight up without any side motion that could force screw out of the position, and work one screw at the time. This obviously does not work on plastic back plates that can crack under too much force.
  5. Digital amp: 1-> 1 and 0 -> 0 Analogue amp: everything that is not digital amp
  6. “The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, but expecting different results.” A.E. Even if it worked in some way after replacing the fuse, would you really use it like that?
  7. http://www.valveservices.com.au/ All your valves in one place. 😀
  8. Try without connecting crossovers. In other words, let you mid-range extend into low bass and measure the response. It really depends on the boxes and driver loading. If you are using the same enclosure for your 2-way; keep the same crossover. Then add a bass driver with its own low-pass cross (and enclosure) and see how it contributes to the overall response as measured in your room. It is easy to cut bass later on from either of the drivers - not so easy to add more if you need it.
  9. Fair enough. In that case, if you want a simple and cheap MM phono stage opamps are the way to go. Heaps of them in sub $500 mark - DIY should be in your budget. Just check out Pearl - you won't regret. https://www.passdiy.com/pdf/PEARL 2.pdf https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/204336-building-pearl-2-a.html
  10. You cannot do a decent tube phono stage for less than $1000 DIY or around $2000 retail. Well, you cannot do a decent phono stage for that money regardless of the design. Go for Pearl or Pearl 2 from DIY Audio forum - it will be more expensive with all the parts included but well worth every penny.
  11. Look for DIY builds of Pearl and Pearl Mk2 - they are Pass Labs designs with amazing performance.
  12. With Marantz you have to go "high-end" to get that famous sound that everyone talks about. I had great experience with PM15-S1 - they are sub $1000 S/H. Also even better if you can go to S2 or even PM11 (any series). They are really nicely designed and very capable amps.
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