Jump to content

andyr

Members
  • Content Count

    12,277
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    3

Everything posted by andyr

  1. I'd agree that the room and the speakers have a large effect on the sound - but IME, changing amps or DACs can also have a significant effect on your enjoyment of the music. IE. not 'trivial'! Changing from a Class AB amp to a Class A, for instance. Or changing from an ss to a tube amp. Andy
  2. What is not audible to one listener may well be picked up by another. I suggest you read the late great Allen Wright's most interesting "white paper" on cart alignment. An arc protractor makes it much quicker (than a 2-point protractor) - it may also give a more accurate result - as it enables you to clearly see whether the stylus is on top of the arc ... all the way along the arc. To some people, "good enough" ... is not the aim! "Optimal " is. Andy
  3. Peter, the protractor is basically a quadrant with a hole in one corner which fits over the spindle. (Generally) you will have 3 arcs on the protractor: Baerwald Loefgren, and Stevenson alignments. Sometimes Ken fits a 4th arc on - if the arm mfr has their own 'special' alignment. You simply place the stylus on the arc, at the outer end of the arc. Then, without moving the protractor, you place the stylus on the inner end of the arc. If the stylus is in the right place ... it will follow the arc from its outer end to the inner end. But if it ends up, at the inside end of the arc, on one side of the arc - then you need to adjust the position of the cart in the headshell; the protractor instructions tell you whether you need to move it towards or away from the pivot point. It's dead simple! Once you've got the stylus tracking the arc then you place the cart on the 2 cross-hatched areas and make sure the offset is right (of course, if you adjust the twist ... you may move the stylus off the arc! ). Andy
  4. I've not used a Feickert protractor so I've no idea whether I'm on the right track ... or waaay off course! But are you shure you set the protractor to pivot-to-spindle distance ... or eff. length (which is pivot-to-stylus distance)? If this is hard to determine ... maybe a Feickert is not suitable for an Ekos? Absoloootely not! I would suspect not! Why not get hold of an 'Accutrak' arc protractor. Ken Willis will be able to make one suitable for your Ekos. (I've bought 3 off him - they're about USD50, I think. One for my Graham 2.2 - when I had it, one for my Univector 12" and one for my Magnepan Unitrac. Andy
  5. Peter, "cleaning" a record - to me - is about getting the gunk out of the grooves (so there's nothing to impede the progress of the stylus) ... not taking it off the surface of the LP (where the stylus doesn't travel). I can't see how wiping with a cloth gets down into the grooves. Andy
  6. That's a myth started for marketing reasons (USP! ) by REL. Use the low-level inputs to your subs. Andy
  7. What did you do with the HFE? Simply spray it on ... then wipe it off? If so - what did you use to wipe it off? Andy
  8. Hah - no, not watching tennis (but a double helping of "Occupied" on Netflix, instead ), Murray. NADMAD, I would suggest a 'Corus Blue' from the 90s would need the suspension replaced, as well as a new cantilever (as it's that old). IE. more than a $445 jobbie to get it back to scratch. I know nothing about the Garrot K3 but I do know the P77 is a great cart. Talk to Garrot and see what they would charge to supply you with a P77 whilst taking your Corus as a trade-in. Andy
  9. Is yours the 'H' version of the DV 20 X2 (2.8mV output) ... or the 'L' version (0.3mV output), R? If the former and you're willing to wait a couple of months for me to build it for you ... I can offer my base-model Muse MM for about your budget. Those who've bought a Muse love its sound - and the advantage a Muse MM has ... is infinite options for 'C' and 'R' loading values. Not sure whereabouts you're located but you might also like to consider the PS Audio GCPH which seems like a bargain! With both the Muse and the PS Audio, though, there's the issue of whether you will like the sound ... or not (given your negative experience with the Phenomena). If you're in Melbourne, I could drop a Muse over for you to audition - otherwise, there would be postal charges to cover, for an audition. Andy
  10. Do you mean by format, the difference between 'AAA' and, say, 'ADA'? Or are you referring to what av was talking about: 33 or 45 ... or even 78? stereo or mono? Andy
  11. Becoz it's a good phono stage! Andy
  12. Yes. Not exackly! The amp's maximum output power is determined by the +/- DC rail voltage. Andy
  13. So do one more test. Plug your Ania directly into the phono input of your Yam receiver. (I'm assuming here that the receiver has an MC-capable phono input.) Andy
  14. Indeed! But I'm actually more interested in understanding what to look for - sonically - when comparing an LDR against, say, a conventional stepped attenuator. For instance, will one show less noise at the speakers when the volume is completely turned down? @Marc, I'm curious to know what the reason was for initially removing posts from this most interesting thread? Andy
  15. Curiouser and curiouser! You "never listen to 45s" ... and now you are, Tim! So you've had a "Damascene moment"? Andy
  16. Ummm ... have you got the wrong thread, cafe? (We were discussing power.) Andy
  17. Que?? I'm not aware I sent you my dwgs for the SkeletaLinn, Tim? It certainly doesn't look anything a Kuzma Stabi S! RP8 maybe (they copied my concept)! Andy
  18. Well, Steve ... yes, I can say - having upgraded a hi-spec LP12 to my 'SkeletaLinn' - I am truly happy. (Think of the SkeletaLinn as a Linn without 3 components which are known to influence - and therefore potentially degrade - the sound of an LP12: the plinth a top-plate, and an armboard. But still with Linn: springs & grommets Cirkus bearing outer platter. ) Plus it has a 12" arm - which no standard LP12 can cope with. But that doesn't mean that, say, if Linn release a quieter bearing ... I wouldn't upgrade! Andy
  19. It shouldn't (affect whether the fuse blows or not). As I would be! Unless the AHP fuse wasn't the normally supplied fuse? Good luck, K. As I see it, they should firstly swap your unit for a fresh one. If this new one continues to blow fuses then they should refund you your money, when you return the new Lehmann. The point is - which MB pointed out - is that phono stages are such low powered devices that they should never blow fuses on account of the current being drawn. Sure, the 'inrush current' when you switch it on is much higher than the steady state current (because of the power transformer and the PS caps charging up) - but as long as the fuse is sized for this initial inrush ... it should not blow from normal operation. I've found you can either use: a fast-blo fuse which is 2 - 3 times what the steady-state current draw is, or a slo-blo fuse which is just over the steady-state current draw. I used to run a power amp which was just "on the edge"; I used a fast-blo fuse (because to me, that is the more sensible fuse to use!) which, every 3rd or 4th time I turned the amp on, would blow - from the transformer and cap-charging inrush (i didn't turn it off much!). But I eventually got sick of this and upped the amp rating ... and had no more problem! Andy
  20. Talk to someone on a mobile phone, Stump!!?? This is not the 90s, man - you need to get with it! Mobiles today are used for messaging - and social media - synchronous comms (ie. talking) is so old hat. Andy
  21. True, Mb ... I merely posted because there was BATMAQN bemoaning the poor response from 148,000 SNA members. Andy
  22. Or maybe members (like me) consider the thread to be pointless ... so we just ignored the poll? Andy
  23. Agreed, S! When the 2x4HD will do everything the OP asked - and more! All for only USD205. See here, @marten: https://www.minidsp.com/products/minidsp-in-a-box/minidsp-2x4-hd Andy
  24. Aaah, OK. Thanks. Back to your original Qu: Is it possible to set up a typical av Pre-Pro to serve as a sort of active crossover? More specifically configure it to: 1) send two L-R main channels to woofers using e.g. a 24dB/oct low pass filter 2) send two L-R main channels to tweeters using e.g. a 24dB/oct high pass filter This to serve 2-channel delivery rather than full surround delivery. I think you will have to ask this Qu of the mfr of the specific pre-pro you're interested in. Andy
×
×
  • Create New...