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andyr

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Everything posted by andyr

  1. In the late 70s, EMI released a double LP containing tracks they had recorded over 75 years from 1898 ("A Voice to Remember "). Obviously, most of these recordings were originally released on shellac 78s - but the compendium: starts with a recording from 1898 - which I think was from a wax cylinder and ends with a couple of recordings from 1973 - which, presumably, were stereo. One of the tracks is Caruso singing "Studenti, udite " - recorded in 1902. But the reason I have kept this box set is the recording of the last castrato - Alessandro Moreschi, singing "Ave Maria " (recorded in 1904). The voice can be likened to a cat caterwauling ... I guess he must've been quite old in 1904. I'm sure your software-based phono stage did a great job. Maybe you need to build up your collection of 78s? Andy
  2. Well done! That means you have set anti-skate to the minimum amount. You might want to check azimuth, just to make sure (perfect azimuth means that the stylus is sitting vertical in the groove). The 'quick & dirty' method of doing this is to rest the stylus on a thin mirror (the shiny side of a CD is good for this! ) and look front-on at the cart. You should be able to see that the cantilever - and its reflection in the mirrored surface - form a straight (vertical) line. Andy
  3. You obviously don't get around much, to screwing screws into various materials - like: grub screws which hold the wires in a mains plug. hardwood. 30 years ago, stripping the head off a screw was an uncommon experience; nowadays, it is commonplace. The reason: we stopped making screws here in Oz - from Oz steel - and only import screws made in China. Sure, they use iron ore from Australia to make their steel ... but there's a lot more to making (quality) steel than just heating up iron ore.
  4. Undoubtedly! I certainly won't ! Tweezers need to be stiff - so when the tips are gripping something and the 2 sides of the shank of the tweezer are apart, slightly ... they don't bend in and touch each other (which would reduce the closing pressure of the tips). The Chinese alternative will be made of cheap, crap Chinese steel - so will not be as stiff as the Nazotec. Andy
  5. Yes, functionally that is perfect for you! Whether they use excellent switches in a $200 product ... is perhaps the only thing to ponder. Andy
  6. That is a very good question! My answer is ... the switch will have absolutely no affect at DAC signal levels. Why do I say this ... because it (well, the switches I use, anyway) has no discernable effect on the output of a cartridge which: a. is vastly lower in signal level than a DAC (0.3mV as against 2000mV), and b. can deliver output up to what a 96kHz sampling rate can handle. But you might get a different view from a digital guru. Andy
  7. It's been mentioned before - maybe you missed it? The simplest solution is to use an RCA source selector switch ... but in reverse ! Normally, you might have 3x inputs ... and you select 1 input at a time, to feed the output. In your situation, you would have your DAC RCA cables attached to the switch's output RCAs - and RCA cables into your 2 amps would plug into the RCA input sockets on the selector switch. No cable format conversion involved! Andy
  8. I bought a Fozgometer because I read the blurb and thought it was the ultimate tool for azimuth. Since then, my understanding has expanded - and crosstalk is not the only factor you have to get right. Hence - whilst the Foz does a better job of getting (stylus) azimuth correct than a mirror or a lined perspex block ... the software tools do a better job. Andy
  9. You're right, av ... I mean you're always right!
  10. Yes, it's "all you need ", av ... but an arc protractor: a. makes the job considerably easier, and b. more accurate. Correct azimuth is the stylus riding perpendicular to the groove . All those "cheap perspex blocks " do is enable you to get the cantilever aligned vertically. The 2 extremely expensive software-based alignment tools are the ultimate for correct azimuth, IMO. Andy
  11. Aah, I hadn't picked up that you had 4 decks. The protractors are made for different arms; you would have to ask Ken whether you can use the same protractor with different arms. My guess is that if they have the same pivot to stylus distance ... the one protractor can be used with different arms. Andy
  12. Correct! But it can certainly take something away. The issue is ... which cable degrades the sound the least? Andy
  13. An "Accutrac" (by Ken Willis) - an arc protractor made specifically for your arm's effective length. He prints on it the stylus arcs for Stevenson, Baerwald & Loefgren alignments. Cost you around $50 + postage. Andy
  14. Ask @Tasebass - he has one, too. Andy
  15. Do you have any spare you will part with? Andy
  16. Sorry, have no idea. But if they're both in series ... then both of them! You do not want to replace 1uF with 0.33uF - as that will cut off bass response. But by all means replace 1uF with 2.2uF. Perhaps you can use the 0.33uF ones you bought in the 'interstage' positions - obviously only if these are currently <= 330nF. Andy
  17. Nah, April - you have OCD reel bad! Andy
  18. I would say ... no ! Having owned several Naim amps in the past, I would say there are plenty of other amps to buy, in that price bracket, which will sound much better. Yes, I would say a better DAC than your D10 - which might not even cost $300 - would improve your sound. (I recently bought 4x Topping E30s to stop using the DAC chips which are included in my miniDSP unit - and this made a major improvement.) Andy
  19. I think you mean output (coupling) caps? (There would not be series caps at the input of a phono stage ... but there is, typically, a series cap on each channel's output - to stop DC offset from passing into the next component. I noticed that the voltage on the big black cap is 400v. Are you sure your Russian Teflon and PIO caps are 400v (or more)? Andy
  20. Hah - that's exactly what I am doing, David! (I used a case for my ADC which is large enough to contain 3x 25v caps - as well as the PCB - which feed: miniDSP, ADC and my 4-way digital source selector.) Andy
  21. Great, David. You will not be disappointed. I run mine at 96kHz using a coax output. Interesting that your phono stage overdrives it - at 2v. I don't remember adjusting the peak signal down ... but my phono stage certainly doesn't output anywhere near 2v but - every now and again, on a transient - the red 'overdrive LED' flicks on. "Every now and again ", to me, means I have the gain set perfectly. I would suggest changing over the 12v wall wart to a 12v LPS, though. I use an Sbooster - but a Gieseler LPS would do a good job, too. Andy
  22. Yes, the gain of that Turner phono stage seems to be 57dB. He said "I have used a Denon DL-103 MC with rated Vo = 0.4mV and I get 280mV at amp Vo. "; your cart is 0.12mV so you will get 84mV. That is very low - sure, if your preamp has lots of gain ... you can compensate. However, I suggest your SQ would increase if you were feeding 280mV into your preamp (rather than 84mV). This would require you to have about 64dB gain in a phono stage. You can compensate for your phono stage's low MC gain by using a head amp (before the phono stage) and taking out the link between R5 & R6, to turn it into an MM phono stage - which the article says has 45dB of gain. A head amp which gave you 25x gain would be sufficient for a 0.12mV LOMC, with the MM's 45dB gain. Using a head amp for this pre-phono stage amplification (rather than a SUT) would allow you to experiment with different cart loading values, to choose the optimum (anywhere from 100 - 470 ohms). BTW, the Turner phono stage is undoubtedly "hand made " - and I'm sure sounds great. But it is not a "pure tube MC phono stage " ... as it uses a 2SK369 jfet at the input (immediately after C3). Regards, Andy
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