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About andyr

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  1. TT-PSU 'Upgrade'

    Just as a matter of interest ... when LPs have '33rpm' printed on them: is this really 33rpm? (IE. 99 revolutions in 3 minutes.) or is it shorthand for 33.333rpm? (IE. 100 revolutions in 3 minutes) Andy
  2. Currently Spinning

    Perhaps a lot older! Though I'd guess you're probably feeling much younger ... seeing as how Baby Spice has taken you back. Andy
  3. Another option is to give me parts of your LP12 , to use for your SkeletaLinn ... and you sell separately, the LP12 parts I don't use. (I broke apart my own LP12 and sold all the bits separately.) Andy
  4. You are correct, H. Steve didn't proceed with that TT, though - he's put his energies into bringing the speed controller to market (currently on hold, for CE testing! ). But he is developing a new TT also. Andy
  5. Show us your Turntables!!!

    AIUI - just the platter. And mass weighting the outside of the platter is best (the flywheel effect).
  6. Show us your Turntables!!!

    Looks great, Peter - but has it got rid of your radio break-in problem? I wouldn't have called it a particularly 'mass-loaded' TT? Its platter is - what - 1/3rd the depth of yours? Andy
  7. Indeed an interesting TT Luc. But quite pricey - for what it offers - in my view. Yes, I've heard that acrylic has very similar properties to the vinyl an LP is made of. As vibrations travel from one thing to another better when the two things are made from the same material ... with an acrylic platter, the vibrations generated in an LP by the stylus 'ridin them grooves' should transfer better to the platter ... than in the case of a metal platter. If the platter is of some weight - as this one is - then it should act as a good sink for LP vibrations. Which is a good thing. Re. metal platters ringing - if I hung my Linn platter with a string through the central hole and dinged it with a hammer ... it would certainly ring for a while. Whereas if you drilled a hole through a perspex platter, hung it and hit it with the same hammer ... I suspect you would just get a 'thunk' (not an ongoing ringing). With both an AC motor and DC motor - sure, you can get different qualities of engineering in both ... but it's ultimately the quality and sophistication of the motor controller that determines how good it 'sounds'. A simple feed for a Premotec AC motor - as used by Linn, Rega and I think, Thorens - is simply a resistor to decrease the mains voltage to a suitable voltage for the motor ... and a cap between the 2 motor circuits (to deliver a 90 deg phase difference). This however, means the motor is subject to the frequency variations which occur on the mains - so the next step up is to generate a stable 50hz sine wave from an electronic circuit. That's what the 'Valhalla' PS did, for an LP12. Ultimately, for an AC motor, you can go up to Steve Tuckett's 'Number9' motor controller - which I have. This: allows the frequency to be changed - to allow you to get your platter turning at exactly the right speed. allows the phase difference between the 2 motor windings to be altered (the optimum is not 90 degrees!). allows the voltage fed to the motor to be adjusted. With a DC motor - the speed depends solely on the voltage fed to it - so you have to get the voltage: a. exactly correct, and b. constant. This takes some considerable sophistication - which both Linn and Edmund Chan have been able to resolve. (So it's the "over' engineering in the circuit which that comment is aimed at - not what you see on the outside!) I suggest there are lots of competitive TTs at that price. And many of them would allow you to choose the arm you prefer. For instance, I could provide a SkeletaLinn with, say, @lovetube's 12" Univector arm and one of Edmund Chan's motor controllers for less. Regards, Andy
  8. Vinyl / Records Currently Spinning

    Do you have his solo album "Silverfinger", Peter? I, for one, prefer it to the one you linked to. Andy
  9. Show us your Turntables!!!

    Correct - which is why Linn designed the Lingo to reduce the voltage fed to their 110v Premotec motors to ~80v, once the platter was up to speed. But in reducing the voltage ... they reduced the 'drive' ... and lost dynamics. What you need is a speed controller that allows you to vary the phase angle between the 2 pairs of motor windings - so as to achieve the minimal motor vibration! Only when you have the right phase angle can you contemplate increasing the voltage fed to the motor. As you say, increasing voltage means increasing motor vibration ... but if the vibration is minimal to start with ... you don't end up with any significant amount, at the higher voltage. The speed controller I use is a prototype of Steve Tuckett's "Number9". Andy
  10. I'm afraid all the above suggestions are not likely to get you any relief, Dennis. Is your office in Artarmon? Get in touch with Nap250, as Greg has suggested - he hasn't solved his problem, either! Andy
  11. Show us your Turntables!!!

    Of course, Tonni. But the belt also means the drive of the idler wheel is not as 'direct' (as with a 'normal' idler). So you gain some ... and I suggest you lose some. My own solution to this problem is to have: 2 motors/belts driving the sub-platter (so double the torque of just one motor) and feeding the AC motors with a higher voltage (30v instead of 24v) - which further increases torque, Andy
  12. Show us your Turntables!!!

    Yes, that I can understand. Andy
  13. Show us your Turntables!!!

    Very interesting, Tonni - thanks. But I can't see how this would deliver better sound over an 'ordinary' idler? (Where the motor drives the idler wheel directly.) Andy
  14. Show us your Turntables!!!

    Please educate me, Tonni ... how can a TT be an 'idler' and a 'belt drive' at the same time?? Andy