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About Tweaky

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  • Birthday 25/04/1960

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  1. IMHO this movie epitomizes the DEATH of music as we [circa 60's-70's LP buying public] It introduced a drug infilled [MDA] effect crowd, where the music was no longer LIVE. The Hacienda Club in Manchester, where the DJ became a easy king pin [and resultant Ecstasy sales] resulted in the loss of live entertainment. A lot to answer to.
  2. Same here with a PS4 VR headset, although mines V2. The game quality can vary hugely re the resolution, usually this depends how old the game is, some games were made for the first version of VR headset and show it, other later titles have been refined resolution wise, but if your normal viewing is a 4K TV the difference is noticeable. The best VR games on the PS4 are Wipeout Omega pack which is a fast Anti gravity racing game. Astrobot which is a VR platform game and MOSS, which IMHO is one of the most enjoyable games I've played over the last few years, regardless it being a VR title, you play as a little sword wielding mouse through a series of what could best be described as VR dioramas. TBH I also seldom use my VR helmet, but my reasons are more to do with comfort, I find my VR helmet can steam up if playing in a none air conditioned room, plus I wear specs, and thirdly I had a op for a detached retina and 6 months later still can’t see properly out of that eye, my depth perception sucks..... stuff happens🧐 . IMHO if considering getting a VR unit, and they are fun, don’t get me wrong. I’d wait until the PS5 is released in November, I suspect a Sony VR helmet V 3 to be released either at the same time or shortly after, hopefully with better resolution, which technically can be done, but if it can be done at the Sony VR helmets price point is another matter.
  3. Good for you. I found it pointless trying to pursue the HDR-10+ update for the 780a, as it's blatantly clear to see from the last update number we got, which was the next one after the one the UK update that had HDR-10+, that Panasonic had purposely chosen to deny it to 780a owners in Australia. Nice TV's , pity about the update politics Panasonic played with Australian owners. FWIW,the difference I saw between a standard HDR disc and the same with HDR-10+ on a friends TV [Also a LCD TV] was barely perceptible, and unless you knew what to look for, I doubt most people would notice a difference. I don't know if that would be the same finding on a top flight OLED TV though, I have a feeling the larger contrast range of the OLED would show off the differences better. Looks like I'm back to Sony for my next TV.
  4. If using Chromapure to calibrate HDR, go to the Chromapure website and have a look in the VIDEOS section. View the calibration HDR Greyscale video. https://www.chromapure.com/movies3/hdr_grayscale/hdr_grayscale.html It's not as straight forward as for REC 709, where you can calibrate everything from 10 IRE to 90 IRE. With HDR your TV or PJ's Tone Mapping circuitry will alter the results of your metering from about 60/65 IRE and upward, to the point when you won't be able to adjust the highlights. This Tone Mapping varies from manufacturer to manufacturer in it's implementation, and where it's effect kicks in. I'd also recommend reading back through the last 50 or so posts at the official ChromaPure 3 thread at the AVS forum. https://www.avsforum.com/forum/139-display-calibration/2248138-official-chromapure-3-thread.html The truth is, as explained in one of those latter posts it that thread, that nobody really knows how to calibrate for HDR, as there is no standard for a displays NIT output [how bright it can get] or the way tone mapping works.
  5. It's not that their pricing is inflexible that puts me off Sony.....but now that Panasonic is gone, looks like my next TV will be a Sony...again. What put me off Sony was their servicing of their goods, it's horrendous in Sydney, and that was still after knowing a staff member working at one of the two Sony service centers . Mind you the persons running the said Sony service center [was at Mascot in Sydney] soon found they quickly lost that contract after Sony Aus contacted me. But still to this day, Sony only has two service centers for the whole of N.S.W, not a good situation.
  6. They have pulled out every market, period, not just Australia, they are to stop making any TV's https://www.reuters.com/article/us-panasonic-televisions-idUSKCN0YM0UQ
  7. TBH the I wouldn't bother doing a HDR calibration, it's only worth doing if you have a Native 4K PJ, even doing it for my 4K Panasonic was barely noticeable, reason being that there is no 'Standard' RE: NIT's [Light output] for UHDR to measure at. Also there is no range within the controls on the TV'PJ in that UHDR that you can make a meaningful difference with. UHDR is 'pie in the sky' reference that has been agreed upon, more as a target spec, problem is NO screen/monitor/PJ on the planet can get even close to reproducing those specs. The Grey scale should remain the same regardless [Thank God], it's only the colour gamut that will differ. You can make subtle adjustments with the UHDR colour, but TBH they are very subtle. Also, if going the extra yard for UHDR calibration, you have to use the actual machine you are going to use for that 4K Disc playback.....I found that my Panasonic 4k Disc player sends out a over vivid signal, colours can be garish....if I use the same 4k disc player to calibrate colour, then that garishness can be neutralized
  8. Is it a new PJ ? If so I'd leave off calibration until it had at least 150 hours on the electronics and the lamp. You'll find with new lamps that they don't drift down slowly to lesser light output, they will put out high lumens and then you will have a sudden drop to a lot less, the lesser output will be your new norm, it from then on slowly drift downward RE light output, you want to wait until the PJ is at this state before calibration, the first big drop from new is not a subtle drop, it is very noticeable when it happens. Grey tracking /white balance etc [same thing] is the thing you really need to get correct, it's a PITA but worth it. The Epsom only having a 8 point adjustment for the Grey scale does hamper you quite a bit, as it means you'll have to stuff about a lot trying to get those 8 points even. You can still use your calibration software finer Grey scale adjustments [I think ChromaPure has 20 point adjustment] it will just mean a bit [lot] more twoing and frowing between setting to get it correct, as your PJ's adjustments are going to be very coarse compared to other PJ's/TV with 20+ point adjustment. To calibrate with a IRIS open or closed is another thing you have to decide before you even attempt a calibration, it's either one or the other. Watch a few movies with both the Iris set at AUTO and the same movies with the Iris set open. Decide if the Iris closed [Auto] gives better Black levels / contrast compared to fully open, if you feel it looks better with the Iris closed, then have your Iris closed when doing all metering / calibration I use ChromaPure as well, I've always followed this guide/ walk through for calibration http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322
  9. Well the writing was on the wall for Panasonic when I bought my TV back in Nov 2017. I knew exactly which brand and model of TV I wanted before I went into the store, yet the salesman said to me straight off the bat, mate you don't want a Panasonic, they are like the NOKIA of TV's. That sort of sums it up.....how they became to be seen like that by sales staff is another matter. I suspect kickbacks or similar incentives given by the distributors of other brands over the years could have played a role in this.
  10. That's the beauty of having your own calibration gear, especially as a PJ owner. You just keep reports of your previous calibration and then just meter what you PJ is currently outputting, it takes a LOT less time and effort to adjust for lessening light output and the usual drifting towards the yellow as a PJ's lamp ages. If I were running a PJ like I used to [average of at least 30 hours a week], I'd meter and tweak the settings every 3 months. I do my 4K Panasonic TV every 6 months now it's electronics have settled in, it's usually the Grey scale that drifts with both TV's and PJ's, so it best to stay on top of things before it drifts out too much, otherwise you end up having to do a major full calibration, which takes ages, and is worth avoiding if possible.
  11. Sad to hear of this news, and quite surprised by it actually, especially with the rave reviews Panasonics OLED's have had. As for don't expect any updates for your Panasonic, well that a sore point with me. My ex780A TV [called the EX750 in euro] was supposed to get a HDR-10+ update, which they did in euro, but not here. Panasonic even when so far as to release a update that was one more number along, that had the HDR-10+ decoding removed....of course Panasonic Australia support droids just spat out verbatim spiel that they were told without actually checking anything [I mean they think people can't easily find these things out on the internet], it's a stupid business practice that costs them customers. Panasonic have never been the same since they pulled out of the USA market. It's not that their TV's weren't good, they lost their footing with big sales in the lower end of the market when brands like Hisense / TCL and others swamped the market after the GFC. When you have stores like ALDI and Wallmart in the USA selling these sort of TV's, your old established brands are going to be treading water at best. Unfortunately it's like the rest of society, the lowest common denominator is winning out = cheap crap for the uneducated masses over a quality product, there seems to be little to no aspiration to own a quality piece of kit now days, it started with HiFi, now it's happening with TV's.
  12. It's a bit daunting at first, as everything seems complicated, but once you get your head around the process it's fairly straight forward. Most people think that the colour on the TV's/PJ's is going to be out, and that getting that spot on is going to give them a much better picture. The reality is that most if not all modern TV's and PJ's colour is pretty good if you choose the presets that are closest to D65. It's the White Balance / Grey Scale where that is usually found to be the total opposite. You need to think of a TV/PJ as two separate things, firstly a B&W TV, then a colour TV. What actually happens is you calibrate the B&W first [Grey Scale - which is also the hardest and most time consuming part of calibration to do], this gives you all your fine gradients, things that enable you to see folds in clothing, strands in hair etc, you wanting to get all the gradients from the darkest to the lightest as equal as possible. Once that's done the colour information is layered on top of the B&W.....that's the basis of calibration. As mention freeware HCFR is good, I haven't used it in years but from what I've seen it's been radically upgraded over the years, I'm pretty sure it now does UHD calibration. I'm pretty sure the HCFR software now has inbuilt test patterns, it does I'd recommend using them rather than a test disc, if only because it's SO much easier, especially for first timers [not having to mess about pressing remotes to change patterns on a disc is a God send TBH all calibration software works exactly the same as each other, the difference between them is UI and varying forms of automation, and that' what your paying for. https://sourceforge.net/projects/hcfr/ It will work with a Xrite i1display pro. I recommend using this guide / walk-through. It's a bit dated RE the screen shots, and meters have progressed and so has HCFR since it was written, but other than that, you do things exactly the same and in the same order as in this guide. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 The hardest thing about calibration is remembering the steps to take, and in which order they are done in, then once done, you have to go back over them again as the controls interact with each other.....this is just for the Gray Scale /white balance, once you have got that as good as you can, calibration of colour is a breeze.
  13. I'm the same. I bought a PSone first back in 97, then when the PS3 and Xbox Elite came out I bought one of each on the same day. It was the games on the PS3 that drew me into playing them far far more than what Xbox had on offer, the same situation remains to this day. If there were Xbox only titles that I thought I would want to play, I'd buy a Xbox without hesitation, but there aren't any, all the Xbox's BIG titles seem to me like generic shooters made for the US market. Xbox never had Adventure games like the Uncharted series, they never had anti gravity racer like Wipeout, they might have had a few stealth based games, but nothing like Metal Gear solid or the Last of Us, didn't have any Final Fantasy's either. When you look at the comparison roster of each console for games that only appear on one console and not the other, it's extremely lopsided in the Playstation's favor IMHO. Well it's obviously not just my opinion, people have been voting with their wallets for years, and it's the reason that the Playstation has a much larger install base than Xbox.
  14. I was looking at building a new PC gaming rig over the weekend [I'm on holidays and getting bored lol ], not that my current one is that out dated, but I just wanted to see what's available and how it stacks up; also if it was a good time to do so or was I better off waiting till Q3 or Q4 when both AMD and Intel have new CPU's out, plus I imagine DDR5 RAM should have started making a appearance as well by then, which will mean new motherboards and chipsets. I've always been a Playstation owner, and checked the specs of the upcoming PS5. 8 core 16 thread CPU, DDR5 RAM, SSD and graphics that will do ray tracing, pretty impressive., the new Xbox is pretty similar in spec. The expected selling price is US $499 which works out a bit over the AUS $700 mark, and they reckon Sony will be taking around a $200 per unit hit at that price - expect PS5 games to be expensive to make that back] So I was looking at what PC components would be needed to sort of match those spec's, my reasoning being that gaming houses will be making new games with those console specs in mind, so any PC gaming rig would at least want to match if not better them, or at least have the same multi core/thread count..... I know few current games utilize multi cores on a CPU, and it's why Intels single core performance has traditionally been 'The' chip's for gamers, but I'm thinking that might change now both major consoles CPU's will be similar. The result surprised and shocked me, as only Intels i9 and AMD's Rayzen 9 CPU's were at around the same spec [although the 5 is sort of close] both around the $800 mark, and to build in some future proofing for the GC that had Ray tracing support, your looking at a RTX mode, which 'start' at around the $550 mark for the RTX 2060 OC . Add a couple of SSD's , RAM M/B cooling etc and a copy of WIN 10 [yeah I know you could use Linux] and you'd be probably looking at spending around at least the $2700 to $3000 mark, and very easy to spend more. So after seeing that's what the situation is likely to be until at least until the end of the year, it does make the PS5 start to look like very good value even if it ends up selling for $800. Pity I can't say the same about the PS5's styling if it stays the same [I know that's what the PS5 development kits look like], a newer consumer design looks a lot sleeker.[see link below] https://www.t3.com/au/news/discredited-ps5-leak-proves-true-as-sony-sneaks-out-official-playstation-info Guess we shall find out soon enough, and how much truth is in that leak above.....Me, I've already put money aside to buy a PS5. I figure if Sony is going to be taking such a loss on each console just to get the player base, the price isn't going to be going down from the release price any time soon, so I might as well get one straight away.
  15. The NBN has been very recently cabled in my area, but still not available as yet. I had a email from iiNet that FTTB was available to me a few months back, I finally decided to take it up on Thursday, had the new modem delivered to me the next day, and got connected on the Tuesday. Now getting a average of 89mbs instead of the 9mbs via ADSL2+, and that's in a old 60's built building with not the best of copper wiring.....I opted for the VOIP for a extra $10 PM, so that save me $100 a quarter from Telstra landline payments. Only bummer with the whole thing was having the tech sorting it out. I don't know if he screwed my PC up, or it was a unfortunate coincidence.....a bit of both me thinks. Prior to him arriving I had been surfing the web and answering emails without problems. Once he went and switched things over from ADSL2+ he returned and asked if he could use my desktop to sort it out, things went down hill from there. He got the WIFI working OK and stayed to see that it was working with my iPhone, problem is 99% of my gear is wired up, I tried getting that working but it wasn't happening, he said sorry I have to go and see another client and basically ran out the door. I was peeved at this, but I can usually sort things out, so I tried to do it myself. I don't know what this guy did, but my main Desktop PC just wouldn't connect to the internet, and just froze. Eventually I tried turning the new modem off then on again, which worked, but the problems were bigger. It's a WIN7 Pro PC, it just so happened that their were updates trying to install when he decided to turn my PC off and start it up again...[Don't let strangers touch your PC is the lesson to be learned here] that froze the PC, and eventually made the C drive invisible to the OS , so WIN7 wouldn't load. It took me over 10 hours to finally get my PC working again, and that's only because I build my own PC's and had the OS Disc to load off [I had to rip out all other HD's from the PC as a last resort] before it would work, and that was after several hours of Microsoft trouble shooting trying to fix the problem. I'm just glad it's over and thankful that I'm on holidays and had the time to fix it.
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