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About Tweaky

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  1. Looks like a Magenta colour cast on the TV, but that could be due to the photo,, rather than what it looks like in person, especially since your screen is a 75" one. I know that you have to be absolutely perpendicular to the screen to take shots that don't show this Magenta colour cast, and that's with a 65" screen, pretty much impossible with a 75" screen and a phone camera From personal experience, I know that photos taken don't always reproduce what you are seeing [I'm embarrassingly crap at using my iPhone for screen grabs anyway ] Easy way to check if there IS a actual colour cast. Put on some well know fare to view, turn COLOUR down to ZERO, see if the B&W image shows any colour cast, if it does, it means your White Balance is out = your Grey Scale is out somewhere. There was a review of this TV when it first came out saying that it didn't have a Magenta filter [Whatever that is]. On the whole you should be able to dial this out, but even I have found that in scenes showing Snow ETC [Wildlife Doco's], this Magenta colour cast does still appear, so there must be some truth to the reviewers statement.
  2. No it won't. Do as the prompt says, and allow the BT1886 choice become available. There are two settings that are suitable for quick set up by installers. The first is Adaptive Backlight, and the second is turn Adaptive Contrast to 'ON' This makes the TV sort of 'Self Adapt' to different lighting conditions [Still will look like crap compared to a calibrated screen]....but hey, that's your general consumer for you
  3. Yeah, go for it, the link is there in my post. I'd bookmark/favorite that walkthrough I linked to and have it open while you have HCFR open, then just get to grips with the UI and menu , and then make you own notes of order you need to do things. I haven't read the HCFR walkthrough in ages, but as I mentioned, it's basically a older version written for ChromaPure. The main differences I guess would be to choose REC 709 and BT1886 as your points of calibration, rather than gamma of 2.2. The biggest differences, and where the most gains are gotten with most TV's, and this one in particular, is getting the Grey Scale correct and the Gamma tracking as close to BT1886 as you can. That's the trickiest part of the whole calibration process, as adjusting for one, changes the other. One tip: Changes in Gamma have more of a effect on Grey scale than the other way around. So what you do is after getting your White Balance good, you try to get the Grey scale close first [Which is basically individual white balance measurement made at different IRE's], then work on the gamma, then go back to adjust the Grey scale again, then back and forwards between the two till you cease getting things much better without making things worse for the other, once you have those two sorted your 85% there. That's also the reason you don't adjust the Green when doing your Grey Scale adjustments, you can balance them out perfectly well just using the Red and Blue controls. You'll see none of my calibration settings have any adjustment of the Green. The Green carries the luminence information.....Gamma also controls luminence, so if you don't make changes to the Green, it makes for a whole lot less work trying to get Grey Scale and Gamma correct Calibration is not that difficult if the software has built in test patterns, but a PITA if you are having to juggle a remote to read the test patterns off a test disc, that was the main reason I bought ChromaPure, but now HCFR has them as well. Colour is just extra information placed on top of a B&W Image [The B&W portion of the TV's controls, Gamma= Brightness/Luminence and Grey Scale= Tonality/ Shadow detail and Highlight detail], so changes in Colour don't effect Grey Scale and Gamma, well very little anyway. So that's why you do it last. Once you have done a calibration few times the process becomes a lot easier, it's just remembering the steps to do things in, and what control effects what that takes time.
  4. Glad to see the settings seem to be a improvement. The contrast and colour seems far more realistic to me on the one using my settings. Slightly OT: I was talking to one of the AVforum members about calibration and he asked what was available, as he has also been using my settings, but he has been suffering a Orange colour cast [which I knew how to fix] I use ChromaPure V3, which costs US$200, and there is CalMAN at US$399 that does exactly the same thing [Your paying for all that advertising and a slicker UI], but there is also the freeware HCFR. Now years ago I started mucking about with HCFR to get my chops in with calibration, then the Xrite i1Display PRO came out, which is a order of magnitude faster reading the test pattens than any meter available without being multiple thousands of dollars, HCFR didn't work with this meter, so that's when I originally got ChromaPure, and it's many upgrades since. Anyway, while gathering some info for this forum member, I went and downloaded the latest version of HCFR....WOW! very nice, and it now works with the i1Display Pro. It now has it's own INTERNAL test patterns, and can also be used with the madVR test pattern generator [also freeware], it also now does reports, and can be used to calibrate UHD HDR10 when using external HDR Test patterns.....basically it now pretty much has everything the paid for software does, you should be able to get the same results that's for sure. https://sourceforge.net/projects/hcfr/ So, I just thought I'd let you know that for the price of a Xrite i1Display Pro [Currently around AUS $350], you don't need to spend any more money to calibrate your own TV's, HCFR is more than capable of doing so. There is a walkthrough guide on how to use HCFR, it's a bit old but still the information it contains is correct, as it's basically EXACTLY the same guide that was written on doing the same thing with ChromaPure. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 If you care about image quality you should make it a pet project to be completed sometime during the year. Using MY settings will get you part of the way there, but when you measure and calibrate your own TV, you'll KNOW it's the best it can be.
  5. Tweaky

    Projector Setup

    I should also mention, after re-reading your post, that you intend to run the Projector 5-6M away from the screen.... are those really the dimensions? You have a potential problem happening with that, well unless you want to run a image size of a 55" diagonal image to your screen from the projector at that distance. The problem is, that the further away from the screen you have your projector, the less bright the picture will be, it depends on the distance of projector to screen, the size of screen and the light output of projectors lamp, that determins how bright a projected image will be......and only for a certain amount of time, as projector lamp light output diminishes with time [Plus the image will get more Yellow- but that's another topic] IMHO, I would employ you to move your projector closer to 3M away from the screen at MAX on a 100"-120" Max screen, anything else and you are wasting your time, you are going to get a washed out image, and that's even is you were running the projectors lamp at it's HIGH setting.....been there done/tried that over 20 years ago. Another problem I can see cropping up is the length of the HDMI cable needed to run from the switchbox to the projector, at the needed length, a lot of HDMI cables are rubbish. I'll save you a lot of searching and recommend you go to Officeworks and look at the COMPSOL High speed HDMI cable with Ethernet [It gives you a bit of future proofing] plus they are NOT expensive. https://www.officeworks.com.au/shop/officeworks/p/comsol-high-speed-hdmi-cable-with-ethernet-10m-cohdmi100 These cables have been tested by fellow forum members, with a lot high caliber gear, and have come through with flying colours.
  6. One of the biggest problems to overcome when soundproofing a room to the degree you intend is air conditioning, both for sound escaping from a otherwise sealed room within a room, and sound from the air conditioning ruining what could be a low noise floor, if only a suitable plenum had been installed at the time of build. Pretty hard to enjoy your music loud if your rendered unconscious from oxygen deprivation , plus the room will heat up into a unbearable sweatbox once you have the equipment up and running without suitable air con. I've seem plenty of disastrous HT builds where this has been neglected.
  7. Tweaky

    Projector Setup

    By the way, I just had a look at the switchers specs, and of the spec's of your TV. To get the sound from the TV to come out of the soundbar run a HDMI cable from the TV's HDMI input 2 only, as that's your TV's ARC channel [Auto Return Channel], you then need to plug that into the switchers OUTPUT HDMI channel A, as that's the ARC channel on the switcher. It should all work fine, but I imagine your going to need a bigger caddy to hold all the different remotes
  8. Tweaky

    Projector Setup

    All your sources have HDMI output. You connect them all to the switcher above HDMI input's, then use one HDMI out to the TV and the other HDMI out to the projector. Then use a optical cable to output the sound from the switcher to the soundbar
  9. Tweaky

    Projector Setup

    No you plug all your sources into the switch box or AV amp and then a single HDMI cord to the PJ
  10. Tweaky


    Yeah my bad, DV. No I did mean LG, I'll try and find the video HDTVtest did that revealed LG's plans for it's own internal processing. EDIT: I can't seem to find the proper video [I'll keep looking for it], but basically Vincent was saying that LG was intending to just go with a advanced version of it's Active Adaptive HDR technology, rather than have the expense of licensing DV. I think it was around the time LG OLED's had a DV bug that caused raised Black levels. But it would seem if their 2019 TV's are having DV that stance has changed.
  11. Tweaky

    Building your own PC for music

    The Intel graphic will handle Cubase easily. Now I know why you were thinking of getting a i7 and 32GB of RAM, it would be a must with Cubase, especially if running a few 'Plug-in's' You can get so called 'Quiet cases' that have special venting and sound absorbent panels, combined with relatively inexpensive water cooling unit for the CPU, rather than the stock fan. That should cut the noise down considerably Plenty of choices in the relative sections at the site below, check out the, be quiet! cases, in the cases section. https://www.pccasegear.com/
  12. Tweaky


    I think they are all going to eventually have to support both DV and HDR10+, if only because people are going to mightily pissed if they find that any particular 4K movie they might be watching is encoded in a format that their equipment doesn't support. LG is the one that's going to be the odd one out, they have said that they aren't going to support either, they are going down the route of having their own software in the TV to supposedly do what DV/HDR10+ does on the fly. How long their position stays like that one can only guess, I haven't seen anything from LG's CES 2019 appearance as yet. Here's Vincent from HDTVtest reporting the Panasonic news from CES 2019..........Now all Panasonic needs to do is start selling TV's and disc players in the USA again.
  13. Tweaky

    Building your own PC for music

    I've built all my PC's over the years, it's dead easy to do, as it's virtually impossible to put parts in the wrong place. You say you want to duel purpose this proposed PC, I'm just wondering what other purposes would they be, and is a powerful graphics card going to be needed ? The nosiest component in a PC now days tends to be the graphic cards fans, followed by the CPU fans, then the PC's power supply. So if you can avoid the need of a graphic card and use the built in graphics of the Intel CPU instead, you'll be knocking two problems on the head, namely the not inconsequential price of a graphic card and the noise it produces. If you are getting a 8th or 9th gen i7 chip, that should easily do 4K playback without any problems. You can check the maximum resolution any particular Intel chip will support by following the links below. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000023781/graphics-drivers.html
  14. Best 3D movie to check 3D performance is the 3D version of Happy Feet, that can be a nightmare of a movie to reproduce in 3D. If any problems, they will show up BIG TIME with this title. I'm up to 120+ 3D titles....why not if you have a decent 3D TV /PJ ? Happy Feet and EVEREST are the two 'Tester' disc's to use....It's mainly down to the amount of high bightness on the screen at any one time, 3D doesn't like White/Bright. I should add, that not all 3D discs are made equal, some are done really well, others, SoSo, and a few are in the AVOID category. You can find a decent rating for each 3D title at the Bluray Forum/ 3D discs https://www.blu-ray.com/3d/
  15. I suspect it might have had something to do with the menu system, combined with the after effects of a maintenance cycle, as the panels run top to bottom, if it was a panel problem I think it would have run down the whole screen center. Looks almost like the lighter coloured area on the TV is showing 'Window'd Pattern' from a extended desktop, similar to how it would look if you were calibrating the TV with a meter where the problem area appears, probably something to do with the 'Mirroring' feature the software used to support. http://eng-ca.faq.panasonic.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/51641/~/how-do-i-use-the-mirroring-app-on-my-tv%3F Panasonic TV's menu system is based on a opensource Mozilla code, that Mozilla no longer works on, so I guess Panasonic's own software people must know of the problem and have written a fix.....pity there was no info given so others that find they are suffering the same problem would be able to find out it was fixable and not freak out