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About Tweaky

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  • Birthday 25/04/1960

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  1. I've just seen that the Coen Bros first movie, and one of their best, Blood Simple, has been remastered and is being released as a 'Directors Cut' version, on Bluray and DVD March 7th. https://www.jbhifi.com.au/movies-tv-shows/movies-tv-shows-on-sale/thriller/blood-simple-directors-cut/569803/
  2. The Party....I love a good witty comedy, seems there hasn't been one for ages.
  3. Not if you want 3D, which is the main reason I bought the Panasonic as I have invested quite a bit in 3D Blurays.....Oh, and the Gaming mode is really good, which if you occasionally game in 3D like I do, made it a 'No Brainer' of the TV most suited to my needs. The other reason was that I knew I could get the Panasonic looking a lot better than it did in the store as I have my own calibration gear.....once calibrated, it can be very close to OLED, but brighter.
  4. I see JB have the Panasonic EX780a 65" for sale at $2396, and the 75" at $3196 ATM https://www.jbhifi.com.au/deals/tv-home-entertainment/awesome-deals-on-big-screen-tvs/?utm_medium=Email&utm_source=ExactTarget&utm_campaign=jb-au-20180217-10-off-apple
  5. Post some pics thread...

    Something very Tolkeinesk about that shot....sort of how one would envision the entrance of the Mines of Mordor
  6. I've been doing this hobby pretty seriously since 1975, I've found the best hard way to upgrade is first find a pair of speakers you love [I found Harbeth SHL5"s 10 years ago and that's it, never to be changed, even though I've had speakers much bigger and 20 times the price of them, the Harbeth's are the best all rounder I've ever come across]....then work on your room acoustics the best you can without driving the Missus to wanting to kill you, just moving around furniture can do wonders, and a lot of it can be DIY projects, so it gives you something to do while saving for new gear.......Amps can be a easy purchase as long as your not asking too much of them, and IMHO should be the last upgrade as long as you have a capable amp currently that can drive your preferred speakers.....you source should be the 2nd component you should be concentrating on after the speakers and room, with digital it's not really that hard to get at least a pretty good to great sound if you do your homework, but analog can be very time expensive if nothing else to get to that same level, or above, it takes a LOT of reading, a LOT of lists to make up on compatibility and upgrade paths, it's something you really have to plan out in advance. As much as I love the analog sound, and I still have a good portion of my record collection [that the nieces haven't absconded with], I haven't run a TT in many years....the reason has been a very simple one, DUST.....it just got the better of me, and made playing records a chore [although this thread has got me rummaging around various boxes looking for old tonearms and cartridges that I have..somewhere? I have gone down this SL-1500 upgrade path before, and so did a friend at the same time, we used to listen to each other upgrades, and swap them between decks, as we kept them pretty much identical during the upgrade path, so one deck was always the control. I jumped off the upgrade path before it got to the level of my mate, who fitted a SME V and KOESTU to his highly modified deck, which did sound amazing, but IMHO was sort of lost due to the not so great resolving power of the rest of his system, and mainly his small stand mount speakers....hence my recommendation on upgrade path. There are better options than upgrading a SL-1200 or any of it's ilk, I'll send you a PM with what that is, and a few links.....put it this way, it's the path I was looking at going down before I just gave up on the idea due to extreme DUST that I suffer .....but you have me thinking about doing it again.....you bastard.
  7. Logitech G29 or Thrustmaster T300RS

    I bought the Logitec G29 and had been running it on a old sewing machine stand.....OK, but not great. After much searching, and reading/watching many reviews, I decided that buying a Next Level Racing Stand was the thing to do. Sure it was more expensive than most steering wheel stands [buy about $100+], but it is the most versatile as well, as it's up-gradable, and after receiving it I can say you get what you pay for. It's certainly very stable, and nothing moves much at all. I only received my stand about 2 weeks ago, so I'm not sure if what I'm about to reveal is the norm [seems this stand's design is under constant revision], but my NLR Stand came with some additional stabilizing bars, these can be use in two ways, either as extra stabilization for people who slam down hard on the pedals, of for those who remove the slant plate from the foot pedal plate, and want to be able to have some minor slant adjustment......it's one or the other. The only thing I don't like about the G29 is the Steering Wheel size.....it's too small.......but I guess that's due to design choices regarding long term working life [force feedback] V's realistic turning....You are obviously going to put much more torque against the G29's electronic motors using a larger steering wheel, than you would with a smaller one........The G29 motors would crap out if fitted with a larger steering wheel I suspect.
  8. Blade Runner 2049

    Or just go to a JB, look in the 2 for $20 box and grad a copy of the original cheap, watch it, then the sequel, then sell them.
  9. I wrote a long post several years ago about upgrading Technics SL1200's, put it this way, you can basically upgrade just about every aspect of the deck, and apart from having the same basic dimensions as the original 'Donor Deck' , it could end up being pretty much in between the new Technics SL-1200GR and a SP- 10. It depends just how far you want to go, and if you think small incremental upgrades are making a difference....ask LINN LP12 owners that have gone down the various upgrade paths over the years. A lot of the suitable upgrades available for modding a AUS version of a SL1200 are small UK based cottage manufacturers [motors, power supplies, spindles, platters, Mats etc], the KAB Mods are more for keeping the deck pretty much as is. Probably the best mod to do, which if you don't like will still leave you with the components easily sold on if found not to your liking, would be swapping out the standard Technics arm with a REGA of some type, or Arm that uses a REGA mount, and get the Origin Live REGA armboard mount for the Technics, which Decibel HiFi in QLD carries. http://www.decibelhifi.com.au/brand/origin-live/?pgnum=2 If you go down this route, get the Origin Live sliding VTA adjuster for REGA arms at the same time [Roy Gandy from REGA doesn't believe VTA makes a difference....lots of people disagree, so do I] You can tweak REGA arms to suit with various upgrades, up to where you get to the point where it might be better to keep the upgraded arm and upgrade the turntable. Plenty of ways you can go about this. Read this post from WHAT HiFI? as a example of a nearly fully tricked out modded SL-1200, it will give you some idea about what I'm talking about....you can go further than this. https://www.whathifi.com/news/best-technics-sl-1200-turntable-ever-made
  10. Blade Runner 2049

    I suppose you do, as two of the main characters of the original BR, and what they did, are the reason for BR 2049 existence
  11. Blade Runner 2049

    I feel the same about Gosling, it's like watching somebody that is suffering from Bell's Palsy on both sides of his face playing any role he's in [I've suffered Bell's Palsy, quite scary thinking it's possible to be stuck with the paralysis ] I watched the 3D version at home on the weekend. The cinematic's of the movie were great, but it was too long and you didn't end up caring about any of the characters , so the whole experience end up being a bland one. I'm just glad I didn't go to watch it at the theater, my butt can barely handle a average length movie sitting in those uncomfortable theater seats, let alone a marathon viewing session like this one was, I would have been rope-able.
  12. Sold my 3D Plasma, what now?

    Yeah, you could. But settings drift over time, so after about a year or less those calibrated settings would be out.......so another $400......or, DIY for Zilch, which saves you $200 for the 2nd calibration. IMHO, far better money spent on being able to DIY Plus you can calibrate the TV for different viewing times, a brighter setting when watching in a light filled room, and classic 'Cinema mode' for subdued night time viewing.
  13. Yeah, he's been posting here for ages under REC 709.,,,,,,but doesn't seemed to have posted anything under that user name since the PJ review. He started the Calibration Photos thread.
  14. Sold my 3D Plasma, what now?

    The equipment is easy enough to get. You want a Xrite i1Display meter, which you can get from Image Science in Melbourne, probably a few other places as well.....You really want to get the meter first, as you will need to know the serial number to register it with the software. https://imagescience.com.au/products/calibrators/calibrator-recommendations As for software, I use ChromaPure standard, which you can buy and download from the site below.....USA$200.....it has the test patterns built into the software, and they change to the correct ones needed during measurement. http://www.chromapure.com/products-chromapure-new.asp I bought ChromaPure because it has a very well written and easy to understand "Calibration for Dummies" thread at the curt Palmer CRT site. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322 If you want to calibrate for 4K you will need a different set of specialized test patterns. These can be got for USA $25 and downloaded from the site below[The UHD/HDR-10 ones].......the file opens with WinZip in case they haven't amended the instructions yet, you get two different file formats and just install them onto a USB Flash drive and read them off that. https://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/dvs_uhdhdr-10.html To get your TV calibrated would cost you about $200 less than buying all the equipment above from price I hear that are being charged, plus it's not really worth doing until the set has run in a bit, as the circuitry needs to stabilize ....playing a lot of 4K and 3D content will make that happen faster, but usually at least wait about a month to 6 weeks before doing it.
  15. Sold my 3D Plasma, what now?

    You should invest part of the money saved on getting a calibration meter and software, then your covered for both being able to calibrate the new TV, but also any other TV's & monitors around the house, plus any further visual upgrades in years to come......if you calibrate on just one input, and keep what were the standard settings on another and switch between them to compare, you will be shocked to see how far out from D65 and correct Grey scale your new TV is/ was out of the box....I know I was with my Panasonic [not so much the colour, but the Grey scale was hugely out] There's something very satisfying about looking at a calibrated screen and knowing it's as good as it's going to be, you also tend to notice things in movies that you missed before