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Tweaky

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About Tweaky

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  • Birthday 25/04/1960

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  1. At the time I bought my Xritei1DisplayPro meter, [I bought it when it was first released] it cost a bit over half of it's current price.....diving AUS $ has had a HUGE effect on it's current price. Likewise the ChromaPure software, due to currency differences can also seem expensive. It depends how you look at things, and how you go about things. As I mentioned, you don't NEED to purchase the calibration software, the Freeware version is equally capable.....the only expense is the meter [Don't even think of going USED, or getting a lesser meter, you might as well not bother] Granted, a new Xrite meter will currently cost you AUS$400+.......How many 4K or BluRay discs will you get for the same amount ? New releases cost on average $30 each...that equates to around the same price of under 15 Discs. How many times will you watch those bought discs? How many times will you use and benefit from the purchase of the meter?....Remember you can use it multiple times and to calibrate multiple screens, and this is over many many years. It should become obvious that it IS a worthwhile purchase. It gives you the ability to have a known constant and maintain it, it gives you the ability to get the MAX out of the $ you have spent on your TV, it makes your TV look a LOT better than if you didn't have the ability to meter it's performance. Buying a Meter and learning how to calibrate is a 'No Brainer' to me. Trust me, you will never regret the purchase, nor learning what a great picture looks like, and how to achieve it.......it's like room treatment HiFi wise for your eyes
  2. That's a interesting fact Tony about a colormeters filter degrading over time. Regarding that, is it more age or usage related that is the main cause of this degradation? Also does this degradation fall across the board of the colour spectrum equally, or does it tend to fail with the most usually unstable colours of Red and Blue ? And if so, by what margin are we talking about? My Xrite i1display pro's rubber has gone all sticky on me [I think it was a gassing off chemical reaction of the rubber on the meter with the original packaging I kept it in for a few years], other than that it still works well as far as I'm concerned [Then again I don't have another meter to test it against] I'll replace it eventually, but seeing that the AUS $ has dived so much, a replacement is now almost double the price of when it was first released....OUCH! 😬
  3. I think how valid your meter is equates to what calibration software you are using. Most use a Xrite i1Display Pro meter, not because it might meter better, but because it meters so much quicker. Calibration freeware HCFR has been updated to equal paid for versions, I imagine you meter would still work with the latest version, give it a shot https://sourceforge.net/projects/hcfr/
  4. No problem. You can read of my calibration experiences with my Panasonic EX780a TV in the thread below starting at page 8.....[If you read through it you'll see before / after/ and in a later posts 1 year after calibration reports ] The Panasonics look good straight out of the box colour wise, but are WAY OUT when it comes to Grey Scale Tracking...[Getting this correct turns a good TV into a top of the range giant killer] Where the differences are noticed is in the TV's ability to show subtle graduations, fold's in clothes material, skin tones, hair....everything, it's makes everything more life like, almost 3D without the need for 3D processing. Calibration also shows the full potential dynamic range of your TV...Usually MUCH MUCH better than what any preset can give, and far far better than you think your TV could look....if only more people got into calibration instead of wasting their money buying a more expensive TV for what they think their current TV can't do.....they usually can, but you need to know how to get that performance from that TV. Not knowing which model Panasonic TV you have limits my recommended advice, but my first one would be to change the GAMMA settings from what probably is the default gamma 2.4 to Gamma BT1886, this option only makes an appearance in Advance settings > Gamma once two or or three other settings in the picture menu are just so.....Read through the posts and I mention what they are.
  5. Sorry for not answering earlier, I went to the eye hospital via a referral from my doctor [I was told it was a sinus problem] and ended up getting immediately admitted for surgery for a detached retina......something I wasn't expecting. I bought a Xrite i1Display Pro meter and ChromaPure calibration software, and used the "Colour calibration for dummies" walk-through guide found at CurtPalme.com website. Xrite meter. [The Aus $$ dive has hit with a vengeance seeing the current price 🙁....it's the same price everywhere] https://imagescience.com.au/products/calibrators/calibrator-recommendations ChromaPure software.[You want the standard version if considering...Test patterns are built into the software....it also calibrates 4K UHD , but you need separate specialized 4K UHD test patterns for that, which you can buy and download from Diversified Video Solutions for around AUS$30, Unzip and place on a USB stick] http://www.chromapure.com/products-chromapure-new.asp Diversified Video Solutions 4K HDR test patterns....you want the HDR-10 test patterens https://diversifiedvideosolutions.com/hdr-10.html http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=35322 There is a freeware program called HCFR that does the same thing as the paid for ChromaPure software, which can also use the same meter. https://sourceforge.net/projects/hcfr/ The guide above was originally written to use that freeware [link below].....it's still up, but it's a little out of date [Mainly in screen shots don't match the current look of the software] as HCFR has had major improvements/ updates since that guide was written......so if you have a Laptop, or a PC you can put close to your TV so you can plug the meters USB input in [it won't work with a USB extension cable] you can calibrate your own TV's, it sounds daunting, but it's easy once you get your head around it and do the calibration in the steps given. http://www.curtpalme.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10457 Calibration is something well worth doing, especially if you learn to do it yourself, as the more times you do it the easier and quicker it gets. Plus you can change TV's several times over a decade and never have to change the meter/software, when you consider that hiring somebody to come and do a calibration for you will cost more than the meter, it makes sense, especially as TV's drift out over time and end up needing to be re-calibrated so they keep looking their best. I wouldn't recommend calibration on a TV or PJ that has less than 500 hours use on it, as both the panels/lamps /electronics need to bed-in, before 500 hours it will most likely drift out of calibrating quicker and by a bigger margin......it can turn a TV into one that looks like one at 3 X the price , if it's a decent TV to start with....then again my thinking is the people who will spend the $"s buying a meter aren't the sort of people who would have skimped on the buying TV
  6. I'll save you some time, and probably a bucket load of money.
  7. I had a similar sort of problem with my Panasonic TV. It turns out that a lot of modern TV's have what's called a 'Showroom Mode', it's so the TV can be on show in a store and customers can fiddle with the settings, and instead of the sales staff having to zero everything back each time, they just need to turn the TV off and On again, and everything is reset. Have a look in your TV's manual under initial setup, you might find a similar 'Showroom Mode' that is the default, and you need to change it to the one where your settings are saved, each manufacturer names these things differently. Another reason for the problem you might want to check is if you need to save each HDMI input separately, if you do, and you haven't been doing this that might be the problem. Modern TV's are great, but you get so many options in the various menus now days it can drive you nuts until you learn what does what, and why things aren't working they way you want them to
  8. My bad, I thought I'd gave a link to the Denon HT amps. https://www.au.denon.com/au/product/homecinema/avreceiver You said your FIL bought a similar Denon , get him to check the HDMI assignment as printed on the rear of the receiver . It can mean different things manufacturer dependent.....it might mean you can just rename inputs.....you NEED to get the specifics RE: This...Don't get burned.
  9. I'm Ditto with the 2017 65" Panasonic, mines a EX780a, I bought t because it was the only 4K UHD TV that was also 3D capable [I have a large collection of 3D Blurays] it can give a $7/8K OLED a run for it's money once you calibrate it. I've an earlier bought Yamaha AV receiver, which is pre Atmos, but I'm sticking to 6 channel surround, I no longer use a center or a sub as neither are needed as all but the rear satellite speakers are large. As much as I would like to upgrade my surround amp, I can't really justify it as I've been able to keep it current with the addition of a small high spec'd [4K @ 60 Hz 4.4.4 $300 video switching unit, which was needed because of not having a AVR that does 4K, and the Panny only having two 4K HDMI inputs, and one of them is also the ARC HDMI port. When the tech spe's are raised yet again I'll inevitably have to replace the AVR, but I'll definitely will be going separate Pre/Power AVR units for that, it's stupid to having to keep replacing completely serviceable power sections. The problem I've found with that is, and why I haven't done it previously is, most manufacturers separate AV Pre/Power units are usually the last to get their spec's update, they will bring out a slew of new AVR's before updating their Pre/Power option, it becomes a matter of either waiting what seems like an eternity for them to get updated, or yet again buying a single AVR unit. As for recommended AVR's with the spec's I gave, well starting with Denon which you seem familiar with. Models from the AVR- X2600H on up seem suitable, after looking at the spec's, any lesser models drop things like video up scaling to 4K. [Sometimes the AVR does 4K upscaling better than your 4K TV would, it can depends on the source unit, so it's always nice to have the option] The only question mark I have is at the rear of the units it's printed saying HDMI 2.2 ports assignable, so if there is a limit on how many are/can be 2.2 compliant, I don't know, it seems rather strange that you would want to have a none 2.2 compliant HDMI port, but then again, if you happen to want to use a old source from the early days of HDMI that hasn't had it HDMI drivers updated [Say a FAT PS3] then you might get some HDMI problems if running it into a HDMI port with the newest spec's....only a speculation on my part
  10. What you really want to look for in a replacement are HDMI 2.2 spec, this is the major thing that will give you some form of future proofing , preferably on all channels, and having two HDMI outputs is always a good thing in case you might want to later add a projector. This will make all your in/out 4K capable. Now any AV amp/receiver that has those HDMI specs will mostly likely have Dolby Atmos processing, the thing with Atmos is that to do it properly you need to have speakers installed in your ceiling, sure you can buy Atmos speakers that bounce sound to the ceiling to reflect back to the listener, but TBH none of them work like the real thing, and IMHO are a waste of money, your better off sticking to standard surround. It's rare that a new surround audio format is the reason a upgrade of a AV amp is considered, 9.5 times out of 10 it's because of the need be able to handle new video specs. I don't know what TV you have, but eventually your going to want to upgrade that, so any new AVR you are considering should support the newest video codecs. Streaming, voice control etc are all tinsle specs really, added more by the advertising people that the techs that design the rest of the AVR, as you'll find that a lot of those things will be duplicated on things like gaming consoles or new TV's. So if I were in your position, I'd be looking for a AVR that supported the following video spec's [as well as the HDMI 2.2 spec mentioned above] 4.k/3D pass through with [Important, make sure it's 4.4.4 @ 60Hz, I could explain why but it would be a big read], support for HDR BT2020 colour space, Dolby Vision, HDR-10+, HLG support [Hyper Log Gamma] you'll want this if you ever consider streaming 4K programs from the likes of Netflix etc. It would also be good if the AVR had more than one HDMI port that was also a ARC [Auto return channel ] A lot of those specs sound daunting if you don't know what they are or why you would need them, but it's only in the last 9 months that a lot of those specs have been ratified by AV and TV manufacturers and are now starting to appear on most AVR's as standard. The only one you might find missing on some brands is Dolby Vision, as that's a paid for license, where HDR-10+ is the freeware version that pretty much does the same thing [I don't think you'll be seeing it on Samsung TV's any time soon]
  11. I don't know what you are expecting to get for your Denon, but to be honest, a 11 year old HT amp isn't going to appeal to many, if any, the spec's of the preamp section alone [HDMI spec's] will be too far out of date for people to consider it worth purchasing. Better off keeping it for a secondary system of some type IMHO, and budget for a replacement
  12. I looked at the specs of your Denon HT receiver at it has PRE OUT's, so if you like the sound of it, and it works well with your speakers, then the easiest upgrade would be to get a new HT Pre Amp, and use the Denon's power amp section only. EDIT : Actually I just realized that to do what I originally was proposing, but have since deleted, you would need a Power -IN connection on your Denon to connect a new HT Preamp, and unfortunately your Denon doesn't spilt the Pre and Power sections for individual use.
  13. I think the 'Horns' at the rear might of been made out of the original packaging of the Pioneer speakers at the front. The quality of his workmanship makes me think it might be the same person who was trying to sell a Les Paul kit guitar that they had made, apart from huge gaps between the neck and body it looked like the finish was shoe polish.
  14. I suppose there are people at this forum whose wives would shudder to see speakers that weren't presented symmetrically in the room. I don't know what would annoy me more, having a less than ideal sound or having a overly pedantic wife. From what I've experienced over the years, some speakers are more susceptible than others to none 'Golden Triangle ' setup, I suspect it's slight phase changes more than anything else. I can setup my Harbeth SHL5's well for most aspects of sound reproduction [spatial width and depth ], but there is always a underlying shortcoming when it comes to perceived stage height compared to the depth and width, it's like singers can sort of appear that they are sitting down when singing, or they have really short legs. I'm not sure if it's a floor boundary effect, as have been proposed by others as the cause, or more a quirk of the design having such a wide front baffle. It's not a deal killer, but it's something that I've always wanted to amend. I've played around with different stand height's, but that can make them sound anemic if lifted too high, and I've placed granite slabs under the stands to counteract this, which for reasons I don't quite understand, do actually work, but stiil the solution to the stage height problem eludes me.....more tweaking needed I suppose.
  15. You might be one of those people that slight differences in pair matching of speakers is really noticeable. A good pair matching is considered -.50db, but if you read reviews of speakers where this factor is measured, you'll see that this can vary widely, some speakers showing differences of up to +/- 3.5DB or worse at certain frequencies. If you factor in room acoustics, you might have a picture hanging on the wall on one side and not on another, and if your speakers pair matching isn't that great, the side with the picture on it might amplify the difference between the speakers. You'll also find your hearing acuity differs for each ear, which again might make perceived differences more apparent to you, and not to somebody else listening whilst sitting in the same spot. The only real way to sort this problem out is to use something like a DEQX, measure each driver independently and equal things out, but that's something few people contemplate, let alone attempt, and you can lose 'The Sound' of your chosen brand of speakers in doing so.
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