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Tweaky

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About Tweaky

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  • Birthday 25/04/1960

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  1. I'd just use the TV's Chromecast and use the TV's ARC HDMI channel into your AVR , done
  2. It never got the steering wheel support.....not surprised really, as it was a remaster of a old game, that itself was remade from a PSP Wipeout game. It was actually a FREE game a few months ago if you were a PS+ member. TIP: Look INTO the corners, and keep your head moving.....same goes for any VR racing game if you want to keep nausea at bay. The funny thing is if you try the fastest speed class, which is Phantom of the HD/FURY portion of the game, and A+ speed on the 2048 portion of the game in normal 2D you might find it impossible to manage, but if you try it in VR mode, it seems slower. If you want a VR racing game with steering wheel support, get Grand Turismo Sport, but be prepared for a BIG download, currently at V1.48, it's just over 100GB, they having been adding new Cars /Tracks/Race types etc about every 40 - 60 Days since release, hence the file size. It's a limited sort of VR compared to Wipeout Omega Pack, as you can only race against a single AI opponent, and no VR online racing, but if you want to race Mount Panorama in VR, this is the game that has it. Omega is the Best VR game for both looks and replay ability, I think MOSS would run a close second just as a fun VR title, with ASTROBOT coming third. The VR Horror genre doesn't appeal to me, but it must appeal to a lot of others as there seems to be a lot of these types of games at the PStore. Like you I seldom use my VR helmet {I've got a V2], two reasons for that, one I were specs and wearing them and the helmet is a PITA, secondly I find my VR helmet steams up quite easily in the warmer months, combine that with the specs and I tend to just not bother.....plus those stupid ear buds are useless even if they do stay in more than a minute, so I use the helmet with the surround sound. speakers.
  3. I was only going by what was presented in the video, which even with commentary didn't come across any anything other than a guy building framework inside a shed. As for "Dennis" and his carbon wall paneling system, it sort of mimics what the acoustic effect balconies have in old style Opera houses and Theaters. They were built using wooden struts overlaid on the outside with thin decorative plaster covered veneer.
  4. I knew that SME had bought the Garrard name some time ago, and it was reported that they were bringing it back. Well it seems they also bought Loricroft, who were the only licensed repairers of Garrard motor units. I have just visited the Darko Audio site, where there is a very brief report from the UK's "HiFi LIVE! show that was recently held at Ascot. The first picture of the show shows Aventgarde Duo Primo speakers, with Nagra electronics and with both SME and Garrard turntables. https://darko.audio/2019/10/the-2019-uk-hi-fi-show-live-from-ascot/ I somehow doubt they would be showing a vintage Garrard next to a new SME, especially since they are both owner by the same company, so it's not unreasonable to think that this must be the first of the new born [not re-birthed] Garrard's. So I did a quick search, and there it is on Garrard's website. https://garrardturntables.co.uk/ It's a solid reproduction with slight improvements [although they are not giving much away in details] of a Garrard 301 motor unit, in a new plinth, matched with a SME M2-12R . No mention of price anywhere that I can find.
  5. A valid point. Exclusives are a huge draw to a particular console. The PS4 has The Last of Us 2 coming out in Feb and Final Fantasy VII remastered [remade] coming out in March, both will be absolutely HUGE , so pity any poor game that releases after Jan and before April on the PS4, as nobody will notice. I've been involved with the AG racing game PACER [until recently it was known as Formula Fusion] since inception, and have tediously tested a lot of versions of this game for the last 5 and half years. It has been only available on STEAM [Not currently], but will also be on both Xpox and PS4 come release. The thing with PACER will be that all times/records will be on the same data base, across the PC/XBOX/PS4 platforms, so there should be a huge amount of movement, hence interest, in improving ones times to get up the rankings. R8 games, as they are known, were initially started by EX Studio Liverpool people, who built the Wipeout games. Check it out....all video is of the last build, almost 18 months ago........ it's got better 😉 https://store.steampowered.com/app/389670/Pacer/ See Machine Soldiers videos of Pacer at 4K, still a old build
  6. The contrast difference of a OLED, is I agree, not to be dispensed. But from the OP's statement about viewing conditions, I doubt they would be truly appreciated the difference. Especially since most viewing is Streamed content .....if it were 4K disc content....well that's a different matter
  7. Bing Lee do the same The REAL trick is to KNOW when to buy ! November is good, but March is ALWAYS the best time for MEGA discounts. The reason is that all the manufacturers show all their new to year models at CES in Las Vegas, which is usually held on about the 7th -10th of Jan each year. Thos new models don't start hitting AUS shores till around June / July.....so all the old stock in the warehouses has to be sold first......hence the discounts, which depends on how much stock are in the warehouses, and how big the TV is [Bigger are usually harder to move- but usually there are less of them in the warehouses] so you have to time it right.
  8. If I were building this from scratch as suited to a forum call 'The Best', I firstly would make it sound proof, as in building a room within a room that floated [decoupled] above the concrete floor and adjacent floors/ceiling Second I would build a 'Machine Room' like recording studios do, have in air con'd to 70 F and put all amps etc in that, have a suitably sorted remote system that could work the equipment from the listening position. As for the 'Inner room' well I'd have the ceiling vary in height both down and across the room, likewise I'd make sure the side walls were NOT parallel to each other . The more you break these things up, the less room treatments you will need, as whatever room modes you do have, will be vastly suppressed from what they would be if you were to leave the room as a rectangle box. The only real room treatment one might need is a Helmholtz resonator placed behind the listening position to absorb very low frequencies, that depending on the length of the room, would not otherwise be able to be reproduced, at least cleanly [you could design one suitable for purpose] Maybe, for the final touch, I'd have a separate soundproofed alcove along one side of the walls, that would house a TT, and could have a suitable door that could be close to absorb vibrations from the speakers carrying to the stylus. I think I've put more thought into my dream 'The Best ' room than the guy who is building his. .
  9. I second the SONY option, it's probably your best bang for buck. The problem with some, not all LED/LCD screen is they have a glass front, so seeing your reflection can be a distraction. I'd check if I were you that any TV you bought was able to playback both HDR-10+ and Dolby Vision encoded material, or at least HDR-10+ [I think Panasonic are the only ones supporting both ATM] that will give you a bit of 'Future Proofing'. As for not having as deep Blacks as OLED's, well that is true, but it's also relative to what you are used to. I think it's the fact that OLED screens are not reflective makes a bigger impact than ultimate Black level. Sony's FALD [Field Array Local Dimming] TV's a pretty good in that regard, it's LED/LCD designs with 'Edge Lite' panels that suffer this problem more. There is a cheap upgrade you can apply to a LED/LCD display that tricks the eye into making the Blacks look Blacker than they actually are. It's called Bias Lighting, which depending on if you have your TV mounted on the wall, or on a stand, will require either a single strip on D65 calibrated LED's stuck on the back of the TV [Stand Mount] or 4 smaller strips stuck around each edge of the TV if wall mounted. Both work on the same principle, they create a Halo around the TV, which makes any Black reproduced by the TV a lot Blacker due to the Halo being brighter. But if you have your TV in a room that constantly has a lot of ambient light going on around the TV, they might not make that much difference. I just bought some for my stand mount 65" for $99 delivered. https://www.biaslighting.com.au/
  10. Use the Vinyl Engine site > Tools > Cartridge Resonance Evaluator. https://www.vinylengine.com/tools.shtml Put in the know variables of both Arm and Cartridge....see the separate ARM/ CART Data Bases for both that are available at the forum. If not listed, do a search and find out the spec's then run evaluator.
  11. I used to run a Gold Onyx Koetsu in the 80's-90's And having owned a Dynavector arm, I don't think a Koestsu would be a great match for it., that's unless they have changed over the last 30 years. I found I lost a bit of air and space when I mounted my Koestsu to my Dynavector arm, I'm not sure why that was, but it seemed to work better in a FR64
  12. One would hope so given the ticket prices asked
  13. Depends on WHO is at the mixing desk at the time [Notice how Queen sounded better than everybody else at LIVE AID ? ] If it's a outside gig, well atmospheric conditions can play havoc on the way a gig sounds, even with the best attempt's of changing the delay lines slightly. Wind is the Curse of a outside gig.
  14. Yeah, I'd start with a Dynavector cart as well. Depends what your budget is, a DV-17D3 is a great all rounder without being ridiculously expensive, the law of diminishing returns starts hitting hard once you go higher up Dynavectors range. As a different option, you might want to consider a Garrott Bros range topping FGS Ruby, which is almost exactly the same price [would be cheaper to get re-tipped as it would be done by Garrott Bros here in Australia] https://garrottbrothers.com/product/cartridges A few brief reviews of the Garrott. https://www.pressreader.com/australia/australian-hifi/20161101/283639644518286 http://stereotimes.com/cart081402.shtml One thing when you fit the arm, make sure you re-balance the TT, as I know from experience that because the DV-507/5 etc weights so much it can , depending on the TT, lower one side of the rear of the TT. Also fitting a lid over a DV-507 is a, yes you can or no you can't situation, good luck with that. As you probably have found out, it's quite a bit larger than most arms, again depending on the TT usually the rear of the arm protruding over the rear edge of the TT base is the problem.....used to drive me nuts just trying to keep things dust free.
  15. So did you end up cleaning and setting up the Linn yourself, or did you get somebody to do it for you? A simple
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