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Monkeyboi last won the day on May 17 2014

Monkeyboi had the most liked content!

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About Monkeyboi

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    D.I.Y. Audio Enthusiast

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    Bakers Hill
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  1. If there is only one state when the LED is illuminated (i.e. illuminated when the device is ON) then it probably doesn't matter and at the end of the day it boils down to personal preference. If however the one indicator is illuminated to display two or more states then for me my personal preference would be (as an example only), red for off / standby, orange or yellow for initialisation and green for on. I tend to avoid colours like blue unless it's dimmed considerably where the device might be used in a darkened room. Personally I find bright blue distracting and irritating in that situation, however I accept that some people might feel the opposite. Cheers, Alan R.
  2. Even though it might be smashing opening day box office records, the test of its success will be determined (IMHO) by the continuing revenue and attendances in the coming month. Also how good sales are beyond the cinema. I haven't seen this movie yet, so I'll reserve my opinion until such time as I have. Might be to my liking, or maybe not. Looks like a lot of varying opinions from the reviews I've read so far in the media. Cheers, Alan R.
  3. I'm really impressed with the level of innovation and craftsmanship in this project. Well done. I would love to see it and hear It in operation. Cheers, Alan R.
  4. How do you know it's a NPO / C0G type? Other than the capacitance of 330pF there doesn't appear to be any other marking distinguishing it from say a Y5P or a Z5U type. Normally when I buy in ceramics I bag them with some ID as to the type as specified by the manufacturer. If I have loose mixed I pop the cap in question onto the capacitance meter and heat it up. NP0 / C0G types don't change in capacitance with a change in temperature. The others do, including changing capacitance with applied voltage. However when in doubt I have found it "safer" to use NP0 / C0G types so the capacitance remains stable under all if not most conditions. Cheers, Alan R.
  5. One of the criteria of choosing an inverter was what noise if any it introduced to the power system. After reading a lot of articles and a fellow audiophile had his solar power system installed I went with the SMA Sunnyboy TL5000B inverter. Now after a few years of operation I can say it is noise and harmonic free and so far I have no complaints. The SMA is a good, reliable and well engineered German product. Yes it is a grid connect system. I am fortunate that even though I live in a rural area and many of my neighbours have grid connected solar systems my property is fed independently from our own private 25kVA transformer that is not shared with any of the neighbouring properties. I believe this arrangement has effectively filtered out any significant HF noise contamination from neighbouring systems. My only gripe is IMHO the government isn't doing enough to promote renewable energies and infrastructure that supports it. In a country that has an abundance of sunshine but an increasing thirst for energy consumption we need to find ways to make these systems more attractive for consumers to install them. Over the past almost 4 years the system has been up and running the yield has been in in excess of 33MWh of electricity generation. Cheers, Alan R.
  6. Currently paying 25.752c / kWh buy in. Currently getting 7.135c / kWh to feed it back into the grid. Highway robbery considering the state of the electricity grid system. And except for the first 88kWh fed back into the grid they slap you with GST on your exported energy. 😡 Cheers, Alan R.
  7. It was a pleasure to do the rebuild Steve. I'm glad that you are satisfied with the end result. That massive aluminium faceplate makes for a very effective heatsink for those bridge rectifiers. 👍
  8. I'm always impressed when someone makes something useful out of relatively inexpensive materials and the result fits the purpose nicely. I take my hat off to you for your innovative use of the products. I doubt if you could have purchased an equivalent for the small outlay for the Ikea tables and the time used to put together a custom made product. Cheers, Alan R.
  9. Sometimes corrosion on the connectors can have an adverse affect on the sound. Also the climate or the conditions under which the equipment was stored. I always recommend full plastic wrap and back in the original packaging if possible, removing batteries from the remote controls and always in a cool dry location. Electrolytic capacitors can deteriorate with age, but I'd investigate other reasons before doing a re-cap job on the amplifier or speakers. To remove any corrosion from input or output sockets / jacks I recommend DeoxIT. Works really well and a kit will last you for years. https://www.jaycar.com.au/deoxit-contact-cleaner-rejuvenator-solution-kit/p/NS1436 I use it regularly on older gear that comes in for repair or restoration. Inexpensive and cost effective solution to problems related to corrosion (within limits) or noisy contacts / switched etc. I'm sure you will see similar recommendations from other experienced service persons on this forum. Cheers, Alan R.
  10. What model and what fault is it exhibiting? Cheers, Alan R.
  11. Yes, everything points to poor PQ at the transmitting end. I guess that means just having to grin and bear it.....
  12. Thanks for posting. Looks fantastic. Cheers, Alan R.
  13. If there is nothing wrong with the other 7 network channels (7, 71, 7two, 7mate, 7flix etc) then the likelihood that your antenna is at fault is slim as all these signals are carried on the same frequency. I would suggest that in order to squeeze all those "channels" into the measly 7MHz bandwidth they are allowed to use, that the HD is getting highly compressed to cope with this. One way to determine if the picture content is highly compressed is to compare the PQ when there is little or no movement of objects in the picture. If it becomes unclear with fast moving content such as the footy as the camera pans quickly to keep pace with the action, it's a sign of significant digital compression on the fly. Yes, the PQ can be also be determined by the engine (chipset) in your TV, however all FTA HD content would be affected, not just 7HD. The presence of pixellation, sound drop outs or occasionally getting no signal at all can point to a bad antenna, masthead or distribution amplifiers (if installed), crook cabling, splitters or badly fitted connectors. When watching any "channel" on the 7 network use your TV's signal diagnostics facility to check three important parameters - signal level, signal quality and post viterbi. Signal level should be "in the green" as should signal quality. Post viterbi should ideally be 0, but low levels of 1.0 x 10-6 is still okay. Cheers, Alan R.
  14. Good to hear you now have it functioning as it should. :) Cheers, Alan R.
  15. Thanks for the heads up and pics. Interesting to see other manufacturers employing similar techniques. Cheers, Alan R.
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