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  2. I have a set of these i bought somewhere locally in Perth years ago too.
  3. One day, I have to try Coates wines.
  4. Today
  5. Not sure if you answered your own question but it’s simple, DAC chip as well as receiver chip prior are one way devices, there’s no feedback loop between them or between them and transmitter to say I received error please send the packets again so even if you know about it you can’t do anything with it, and even if you could once the chip clock is locked to the signal it starts processing signal no matter how many error it contains coz signal stream is flowing real time, more expensive DACs contain buffering to fix potential errors in clocking (jitter) but even than they can fix only certain amount of problems coz once the signal contains errors from transmitter prior to receiving it they can’t send message back hey I received error send it again like in case of telecom protocol, DAC chips these days don’t produce much errors by them self but are more prone to input signal quality so designers needs to take into account how clean the signal will be prior to DAC chip to get maximum out of it - just to simplify the overall problem with digital audio processing plenty of info on this or other forums as well as on the web about digital audio signal processing and conversion and all troubles related to it if you are interested
  6. Couple of questions, have you been listening to the same DAC (streamer connected into CD player input? Or streamer had it’s own DAC or connected to external DAC? I can imagine slightly different sound in case of using CD player front end (digital input) but it shouldn’t be night and day unless there’s something wrong with it but in case streamer has been connected into different DAC or its own then no wonder they sounded differently
  7. This might be worth a look. Not seen the product myself, just had a vague memory of it from a catalogue or somewhere. https://www.jaycar.com.au/floor-or-wall-cable-ducting/p/HP1226
  8. I have never dabbled into dsd myself - but I believe so from looking at these links https://thepcenthusiast.com/alo-audio-continental-dual-mono-review/ https://www.minidisc.com.au/alo-audio-continental-dual-mono-dac-amplifier https://www.aloaudio.com/shop/continental-dual-mono/ peter
  9. Not sure the exact vintage, but I got them early 200Xs. Were driving VAF DC-X, then relegated rear speaker duties driving Dali Fazon satellites.
  10. Bruny Island Stout is very nice. You should try the Oxymoron next time.
  11. Not the case at all. The N series has CA present in the few I've had here, my 9400 does not. The epson is brighter too so not sure what you're looking at there, but do as you want mate, it's your money.
  12. Now Harris and Khawaja follow him with similar wide wafts with little footwork. How many blokes have tossed away their wickets today?
  13. Us Vitus owners need to stick together. Guys please stop dropping the prices on these great amps a few months ago they were $7500 or more, this is a very good deal and I know Pychcometrics had for $6500 a week or so ago, I am guessing its about 4 years old maybe 5 but these prices are getting silly and yes I own and love mine, however I thought the second hand price had plateaued now. This is a serious bargain for someone GLWTS.
  14. http://audioclone.free.fr/responseONEsc.html I’d strongly suggest comparing this to the crossover inside your actual speakers though. You will also need to measure the DCR of the inductors and replicate them in any replacement inductors. To be honest, the 1SCs use pretty generic components but are tuned such that you risk adversely affecting the sound quality by fiddling around and randomly replacing components. I had a pair of 1SC clones back on the day and threw a bunch of boutique bits at the crossovers. The originals with their generic caps and inductors sounded noticeably better. Each to their own though!
  15. I have 2 of these KD decks (why are people using kp?). Never had a problem with the arm lift mech. and my first KD was very badly packed for shipping from Germany and arrived with one corner of the plinth smashed, I negotiated a price drop down to £120 - it still played perfectly. It's worth checking out posts on Vinyl Engine, particularly those by Hugo. The bearing assembly is something else - a rod of special steel alloy which is rifled and sits on a huge nut which is highly polished as is the rod. The tolerance between the rod and the steel tube in which it is situated is so tight that, any tighter and it would seize up, this is demonstrated by how hard it is to remove the rod to clean off the old Slick 50 oil and apply a new coating - don't use grease. Do not 'adjust' this nut , it is factory set. The life of the bearing assembly can truly be said to be 'indeterminate' what a difference to the totally inferior archaic likes of Garrard et al. The silent operation of a lot of Japanese superdecks like the KDs is down to the bearing assemblies and the type of motors used. Kenwood employed top flight engineers - the PCB is really easy to remove, very little desoldering is nec. to achieve this. the TX is connected by 3 wires which are fixed to steel rods on the PCB mechanically (very old school this), on reassembly it is impossible to use this method and the wires must be soldered. I am about to replace all the electrolytic caps on both decks. I'm using Panasonic FC caps, cost about £4 per deck. The arm is so well designed and set-up is a doddle. I would not describe the arm as high mass but medium. By changing the aluminium slab of a headshell it is easy to reduce the arm mass to suit modern cartridges or something like the Pickering 7500S LOMM. Why anyone would want to spend serious money on any of the modern decks is beyond me - your paying for technically inferior eye candy. Non of them has the really useful arm lift at end-of-side or motor turn-off. If I had known that Kenwood were going to scrap the tooling and production facilities for these decks at the end of the 80s, the scrap price would have been negligable and to re-introduce these decks now would mean a huge backlog of orders and very healthy profit margins. Good examples go for around €800 and that includes a superb gimbal arm - a steal at the price.
  16. I will be sticking with my Dragonfly Red for out and about and the Chord Mojo at home.
  17. That's the weird thing about them, for such a small speaker. They very power hungry and scale very well higher up in the amping chain. Btw does anyone know the crossover value. I want to tweak all the inductor and caps to higher grade exotic stuff.
  18. How new are these.? What were they driving?
  19. Started my mini PC music overhaul today. I will say right out of the gate I am no PC wiz. I have an IT mate I can call for help but I try and muddle through it myself. I built my original CAPS Lagoon myself following the guidelines from the Computer Audiophile Site (now known as Audiophile Style). I know enough about building PC's to know that Google is your friend. There is almost SFA you can't research these days and more often than not there is a Youtube vid to run you through it. After much pondering I have decided to go with what I know best,. I'm installing WS2019, Audiophile Optimizer 3.0, Fidelizer 8.4 and JRiver Ver 24 plus adding an additional internal 2tb SSD on which toi store my music. SSD was Samsung QVO for $274. The WS2019 trial download can be reset 5 times over a 3 year period so no initial outlay. AO, Fide and JRiver are a few extra dollars for some upgrades on what I have so overall not a big outlay...........so I thought. I am a simple listener. I put on a CD (Flac version) and listen all the way through. I like it that way. I don't do Internet Radio, Tidal, Roon, MQA, HQPlayer, DSD files etc, etc. I use JRiver and my flacs are 24/96 at most. I try and work with the KISS principle. It turned out to be one of those '@#$% you' PC days. Anyone who has worked on a DIY PC knows what I mean. The case is a LGX_MC500_Mini-ITX . I removed the PC from the Audio Cabinet, set it up on my desk and took the lid off. 1st issue I came across. The Sata Power cable didn't stretch far enough to connect with the 2nd SSD so off to CPL to buy a Sata Power cable splitter cable. All good. $8.50 later, back home. 2nd issue. Plugged in the power supply (PS) and guess what? It had @#$% died. The 9 metre trip from cabinet to desk must have been too much for it. The PS is a 12 vlt - 5.85 Amp and I had nothing similar. So off to Jaycar for a new one. $74 later and back home. 3rd issue. Now PS working but the On/Off button had ceased operation and the PC wouldn't switch on. WTF!!!!! Ahhhhhhhhh!!!! There may have been a small tear in the corner of my eye but I battled on. I was dubious whether the On/Off Button had died or the MB had expired, so I had to trouble shoot. Did some googling and ended up finding out that if the On/Off was dead, I could jump-start the MB with a screwdriver by shorting the MB Power pins on the MB. With great trepidation I gave it a try. What did I have to lose I told myself??????? Ahhhhhhhh!!!! 'Let there be Light' the machine fired up. "Hallelujah"!!!!!! I later fiddled with the connecting pins b/t the on/off button and the MB and guess what? The On/Off button came back to life. Go figure. Maybe just a dry joint. I gave it the Deox-It Gold treatment so hopefully it will stay working. That was enough for one day. My brain hurt. I have the WS2019 OS ready to go on a USB Bootable stick. I have sorted out what I needed to save and took ipad images of my current settings in JRiver. Fingers crossed day 2 goes smoothly. Regards Cazzesman
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