Bassline Junkie Posted March 18, 2016 Share Posted March 18, 2016 Whoops, my bad. Hadn't had my morning coffee when I was reading that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suntzu Posted March 20, 2016 Share Posted March 20, 2016 >So I would need to purchase another Burson op amp unit? I only have 2 of them now. I'm also unsure where the dual 5532 op amps are located. I'll >pop the cover open and take a closer look again. Well that is a little scary if you can't recognise the op amps!!! I will post a clear pic later. Be very careful that you insert the new ones the correct orientation with both half moons. Yes, the 502 uses three dual op amps. If you have two, that is fine, remove the two on the left and replace both those leaving the one on the right. If you want to return to the original op amps, you just reverse the operation. I have 3,9uF Mundorf Gold/Silver/Oils in my unit and they are nice. They took ages before they sounded their best though. If I was doing this again, I would do it differently. I would use two or three caps paralleled up to the same value. This is inline with the BAT way of thinking and I think it has merit. Try something different and report back your findings! Share it here. G'day Red or any other kind souls, I'd like your input please. ​With reference to the LM 502 DAC. What do you mean by using 2 or 3 caps paralleled to the same value? I'm looking at some 3.3uf Mundorf Silver in oil capacitors. Would these be suitable and how many capacitors would I need to get? Dumb question. What are the existing stock capacitors that I need to take out of the LM 502 DAC? Is it as simple as popping out the op amps or does it require some desoldering? Cheers mate! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STELYA Posted March 21, 2016 Share Posted March 21, 2016 (edited) Hi guys Has anyone opened their unit and wrote down cap values for digital section (caps around chip/ receiver/OPAs) ? I've done some surgery on my previous dacs and always replaced stock ones with either Sanyo OScon or BG and always had the same sattisfying result and that is clarity and space has gone one level up. Seeing OScons cheap on PartsConnection I would like to orde these before my unit comes home. So if anyone would be kind to look inside the unit and give us the cap values that would be great. Also would like to know what are values of those out caps which I will replace with Mundorfs or Vcaps...basically also any cap that has any role in sound...and also puzzled by two white caps before tubes and unsure psu caps here and there are best quality... Would love to have that for resistors too but man, haha, I know no one will bother so Ill figure that out when I receive the unit. Also if there is a schematic with parts list that would be awesome edit ------------------------------------------------ 1> What are those 2 white caps (make and are they worth changing?) 2> They all look like low-mid grade electrolytic caps, I reckon they could be replacet with Elna Silmics II , need clarification) 3> That group of caps (gold ones) Look like Nichicon and should be if Im not mistaken power to the chip/receiver. If so BlackGates or OScons would be great here) In front of them is something black that looks like a cap but not sure ) 4> Again some caps, no name ,make, purpose... 5>rcaOut board , golden caps, grey (mkp?)blocks ...Not sure what those are , especially grey ones or are they on par with WIMAs ... 6> PSU caps ...look like generic ones, if this PSU is unaltered then they are crying for some Panasonic FC, Elna S2... ....and also blue blocks ...same as grey ...stay or change. Wont even start on resistors and through which signal goes ...would be golden info for me as Im crying to put some tantals in any of my units ... 7> Dexa and Burson make discrete regulators that can be swapped in for some models...but you guessed it I dont know which ones are in the unit ...and there is a fourth OPamp close to PSU btw 8> JFC... just realised that 1pc 3.3uF V-CAP costs 700 bucks US on pcx...unpleasant surprise ...what would be close but affordable option? jesus! Only Vcap nearly affordable is this one 10x cheaper than CuTf ot TTF http://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitor_film_vcap_oimp.html So ...anyone who could shed some light on make/value/worthwileness of upgrade of that component please chime in. Also a sticky list of done upgrades w results would be nice too. Thank you guys Edited March 21, 2016 by STELYA 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghostdog Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 hello everyone i have put one burson V5 dual and 2 burson V4 instead the three ne5532 which are together with great sound ! there is another one ne5532 ( the 4 th) ; do you know if there is some interests to change him with discrete op amp ? thanks a lot for your help sorry for my english, i am french ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Muon Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 @@STELYA Yup, lots of improvements waiting there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A J Posted May 9, 2016 Share Posted May 9, 2016 Here's a question thyat I have had no luck with yet - I can't get my 502 to work with Windows 10 via USB - no drivers? has anyone else had this and is there a path to redemption here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Rab of Everest Posted May 10, 2016 Share Posted May 10, 2016 The usual driver doesn't work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A J Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 The usual driver doesn't work? No it failed to install Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Rab of Everest Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 You probably have to install it in compatibility mode, have you tried that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A J Posted May 20, 2016 Share Posted May 20, 2016 Yep I did - I'll probably just revert to a Pi as streamer for this one Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveC Posted May 21, 2016 Share Posted May 21, 2016 Is it XMOS? Search for latest Theyscon drivers or try the ones on the Schiit website. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Rab of Everest Posted May 23, 2016 Share Posted May 23, 2016 Hmmm, I'm surprised,i have been using it with Windows server 2012 without issues.... However I am contemplating 'upgrading' our PVR pic from Windows 7 to 10., If I do, I'll try to install the driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Equaliser Posted May 26, 2016 Share Posted May 26, 2016 (edited) Take out the opamps and run the DAC without them. Let me know if it works. Edited May 26, 2016 by liteneasy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red MacKay Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Take out the opamps and run the DAC without them. Let me know if it works. ...And why would you do that? Just askin'. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Equaliser Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 See if it works without the opamp and that it is a real tube output stage that is just using the opamp for gain or I/V stage. Tube output stages that still employ an opamp are not true output stages, 'usually'. A true output stage takes the signal directly from the DAC (either V or Iout) chip. In this case the LM has opamps and I want to see if its taking the signal before or after the opamp from the DAC. If you get no sound with the opamp removed then you know the answer. A common cathode follower with a resistor before the tube acting as a load after the DAC is quite common in some high end DAC's that use tube outputs. Some are just very simple SRPP topologies that have low voltage fed to the tubes and sometimes a high filament to distort them on purpose and work as a half section with the opamp. Or a loaded tube I/V converter with coupling capacitors as DC blockers to the outputs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Red MacKay Posted May 29, 2016 Share Posted May 29, 2016 Fair enough. I might have to dig out my 502 and give it a try. Won't be till next weekend though as I have a chockas week ahead. Right now I have Andyr' battery phono in playin my tunes, a very nice unit, beautifully constructed with teflon boards and it works a treat! Sorry, digital just doesn't compare to vinyl, but I am getting way off topic. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Muon Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 (edited) ................ Edited May 31, 2016 by Muon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Equaliser Posted May 30, 2016 Share Posted May 30, 2016 Is there any reason to doubt that it is a separate tube output stage. Much better sound if it can run without the opamp. I had a look closely at some pictures I was provided ages ago, I don't think it can, but its worth a try at your own risk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Muon Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) ................. Edited May 31, 2016 by Muon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sir Rab of Everest Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 How, if they are switched out when using the valve output. They are not switched out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Muon Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) ................ Edited May 31, 2016 by Muon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Equaliser Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Hard to explain to somebody who doesn`t know about the tube topologies. I can put it in layman terms and say it is not a true tube output stage but more of a buffer circuit with tubes that purposely distort the signal it comes out from the opamps. A true valve stage taps the signal directly from the DAC chip. Sent from my LG-D855 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Muon Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 (edited) Deleted.. Oops! This was established earlier in the thread. So not a good idea to remove the opamps. Edited May 31, 2016 by Muon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Equaliser Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Yep I had a suspicion it was the case that it may not work without the opamps. For some heavy modifications you can put a Salas HV & LV regulator circuit disconnect the existing one. You can also rebuild the tube output stage completely and omit the opamps with its own I/V and connect it to the ESS Sabre chips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
A J Posted May 31, 2016 Share Posted May 31, 2016 Yep I had a suspicion it was the case that it may not work without the opamps. For some heavy modifications you can put a Salas HV & LV regulator circuit disconnect the existing one. You can also rebuild the tube output stage completely and omit the opamps with its own I/V and connect it to the ESS Sabre chips.That doesn't sound lite n easy?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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