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The Wood Thread.


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Guest BobbyD
28 minutes ago, betocool said:

@SETSergio, how did you apply it? Brush or cloth?

 

Cheers,

 

Alberto

Hello Alberto @betocool.............. just using a cloth, getting good even covering.

Now applied two coats and looking good..... :thumb:

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  • 2 weeks later...
1 hour ago, Gee Emm said:

 

Great splashback; and the oven mitt... to die for!

Splash back is "black mirror". Worked well as we couldn't look outside behind the bench, so gives the feeling of more space.

as for the oven mitt, they are carefully carved from white mahogany....

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Building a set of Tannoy westminster royals and its been a big project but getting to the staining stage anyone got any tips for getting the 

stain to go on even without splotches as there big flat areas and ive tried a couple of different methods on test panels and still get some dark spots

20170324_204752.jpg.f87a9866d08a54e74968262bc7fd8616.jpg

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Building a set of Tannoy westminster royals and its been a big project but getting to the staining stage anyone got any tips for getting the 
stain to go on even without splotches as there big flat areas and ive tried a couple of different methods on test panels and still get some dark spots>I only just yesterday read on a luthie
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This is the annoying result of leaving 3 little girls alone in your carvan. This the underside of the dining table/bed converter. That swing away arm has ripped out taking the melamine and part of the ply with it.

 

What would be the best glue to put it back on? I can't separate the broken bit of wood from the leg as there is a lot of glue holding them in place, so the leg has to go back in the original position. I know it will be weaker than before, but hoping screw holes will be filled by glue and short self tappers will grip the hardened glue.

IMG_4096.JPG

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3 minutes ago, :) al said:

 

liquid nails ?

That was my first thought but it's pretty thick stuff. Thought there might be a readily available glue that is originally used to bond plywood together???

 

I'm going to need some clamps too, as the couple I have are nowhere near long enough, the leg is roughly 20cm from 1 edge and 30 from the other

Edited by blybo
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7 minutes ago, blybo said:

That was my first thought but it's pretty thick stuff. Thought there might be a readily available glue that is originally used to bond plywood together???

 

I'm going to need some clamps too, as the couple I have are nowhere near long enough, the leg is roughly 20cm from 1 edge and 30 from the other

 

i have seen some use quik grip which is a contact adhesive. and good for melamine to particle board or ply wood. but liquid nails I think better in this case as its load bearing. I would screw to clamp.

 

alternatively... I think a better solution is can you make up a wider plate (say 3mm - get from any metal / sheet fabrication place) that sits on the melamine and screws in all around and the foot then bolts more securely too... I would say thats more long term :) and spreads the load which is problem now... and this way dont worry about glueing at all :)

 

ps

am continually blown away how liquid nails can be used. neighbour moving took big chunk out of his tile on the entrance to the home. shucks I was thinking gee how is he going to find same, how to fix, cost to fix. and he just used some liquid nails and a couple of garden pots on it top and bottom to hold and done... never know anything happen...

 

...probably fall off in 5 years ... but he will be long gone :D 

 

 

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1 minute ago, :) al said:

 

alternatively... I think a better solution is can you make up a wider plate (3mm) that sits on the melamine and screws in all around and the foot then bolts more securely too... I would say thats more long term :) and spreads the load which is problem now... and this way dont worry about glueing at all :)

 

 

 

Yeah but the leg would then also need to be shortened and I need it ready for Thursday. It was partially my fault in the first place as I (think I) hadn't locked the clamps in the top of the table as seen in the picture which hold on to a horizontal bar and make it more stable.

 

4 minutes ago, :) al said:

 

am continually blown away how liquid nails can be used. neighbour moving took big chunk out of his tile on the entrance to the home. shucks I was thinking gee how is he going to find same, how to fix, cost to fix. and he just used some liquid nails and a couple of garden pots on it top and bottom to hold and done... never know anything happen...

 

...probably fall off in 5 years ... but he will be long gone :D 

 

 

 

I've been meaning to use some "construction" liquid nails for some time for a couple of loose top stones on the brick retaining wall of our front garden. I know it's handy stuff.

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1 minute ago, blybo said:

Yeah but the leg would then also need to be shortened and I need it ready for Thursday. It was partially my fault in the first place as I (think I) hadn't locked the clamps in the top of the table as seen in the picture which hold on to a horizontal bar and make it more stable.

 

why am thinking 3m plate... then just have to "spaly" out the leg a fraction to get rid of that height difference. id be surprised if 3mm will be noticed once thats done. could also shave that 3mm off the bottom of it, but I reckon spread the centre section out and chances are will take up the difference.

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1 minute ago, :) al said:

 

why am thinking 3m plate... then just have to "spaly" out the leg a fraction to get rid of that height difference. id be surprised if 3mm will be noticed once thats done. could also shave that 3mm off the bottom of it, but I reckon spread the centre section out and chances are will take up the difference.

Will look into this if it happens again. Will just visit bunnings on the way home and grab some liquid nails and a couple of clamps.

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On 07/04/2017 at 1:18 PM, tvcollector said:

Building a set of Tannoy westminster royals and its been a big project but getting to the staining stage anyone got any tips for getting the 

stain to go on even without splotches as there big flat areas and ive tried a couple of different methods on test panels and still get some dark spots

20170324_204752.jpg.f87a9866d08a54e74968262bc7fd8616.jpg

I would try mixing about 5% walnut spirit stain with shellac and applying several coats of that until you get the cover/colour you want.

You can put any finish over the shellac/stain.Lacquer works well.

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On 4/10/2017 at 3:43 PM, :) al said:

alternatively... I think a better solution is can you make up a wider plate (say 3mm - get from any metal / sheet fabrication place) that sits on the melamine and screws in all around and the foot then bolts more securely too... I would say thats more long term :) and spreads the load which is problem now... and this way dont worry about glueing at all :)

 

I am with al on this. The amount of pressure, due to the leverage of the leg, that could rip a hole in laminex, will never be resisted by any glue.

Get a metal plate that is larger than the present hole and screw it to the table and then screw the leg to the metal plate. Or you could bolt the leg  through the plate and the table with round headed bolts.

 

Edited by EV Cali
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This is the annoying result of leaving 3 little girls alone in your carvan. This the underside of the dining table/bed converter. That swing away arm has ripped out taking the melamine and part of the ply with it.
 
What would be the best glue to put it back on? I can't separate the broken bit of wood from the leg as there is a lot of glue holding them in place, so the leg has to go back in the original position. I know it will be weaker than before, but hoping screw holes will be filled by glue and short self tappers will grip the hardened glue.
IMG_4096.thumb.JPG.a90adf75df3e2650e8ee61f14bf6d0de.JPG

Titebond is very good and thinner than liquid nails, but you would still need to screw clamp it.


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  • 4 weeks later...

Another issue around the home which has raised it's head in the last 2 months and now needs attention but not sure on a couple of fronts. This is our front porch, which is shaded by the balcony above most of the year. From what I can see it doesn't look to be any termite damage but the joist (correct term for this application?) or cross beam has simply rotted away and the house is only 7 years old. Planned obsolescence?

 

So, what timber should I use to replace it and should I treat it somehow? Only the shaded section is rotten but thinking the whole beam should be replaced. Any tips for getting the nailed in boards out of the solid part of the beam without destroying them? Clearly the deck needs to be stained again once the job is complete but hoping I don't have to replace boards as will never get the colour to match.

 

IMG_4125.thumb.JPG.833db9a9b99104173c9df889dc54ce36.JPGIMG_4124.thumb.JPG.308b8e74f8c3ec3d1fc4d0fe378a4f33.JPGIMG_4123.thumb.JPG.ea5a0c05b9fe4fa83965db4ab3310c1c.JPG

 

 

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gosh in just 7 years ? did they use treated ? or not a hardwood or something. thats amazing ! our decking bits about 12 years old now. done with cheapo treated pine as builders do. is still hanging in there. and it has little pots that get watered etc so often damp but doesnt look like that ! 

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4 minutes ago, :) al said:

gosh in just 7 years ? did they use treated ? or not a hardwood or something. thats amazing ! our decking bits about 12 years old now. done with cheapo treated pine as builders do. is still hanging in there. and it has little pots that get watered etc so often damp but doesnt look like that ! 

 

House was 2 years old when we moved in and I'm no timber expert. I think the problem is rain doesn't dry as this is southern edge of the deck and in shade almost all day.

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Replace it with H4 treated pine which is designed for in ground use. If you want extra protection, you can buy various paint on products at bunnings.

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9 minutes ago, blybo said:

 

House was 2 years old when we moved in and I'm no timber expert. I think the problem is rain doesn't dry as this is southern edge of the deck and in shade almost all day.

Unfortunately looks like the result of a "new" home - they just tend to be cheaply built!

Given the age, you should first check if 10yr builder's warranty still covers it.

likely due to bearer 1.wrong timber type 2. Very close to ground.

finish coming off boards as they should either left to age first of be treated to remove tannins.  Rarely done on new builds.

lastly, boards should always be screwed not nailed, but nails are faster and cheaper..... see a theme.

sorry to see this.

are nails the type with a spiral down the shaft, or just smooth?

mat

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1 hour ago, Mat-with-one-t said:

Unfortunately looks like the result of a "new" home - they just tend to be cheaply built!

Given the age, you should first check if 10yr builder's warranty still covers it.

likely due to bearer 1.wrong timber type 2. Very close to ground.

finish coming off boards as they should either left to age first of be treated to remove tannins.  Rarely done on new builds.

lastly, boards should always be screwed not nailed, but nails are faster and cheaper..... see a theme.

sorry to see this.

are nails the type with a spiral down the shaft, or just smooth?

mat

 

Isn't the guarantee 7 years?

They are decking nails with the spiral grooves, we have systematically been replacing any nails as they pop up with screws. And I've already re-done the boards with a paint style of stain rather than oil. That was spring 2014 I think.

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