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Dual MiniMarty's With Dayton Ultimax 18-22's


STAIN0

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Decided to take the DIY route and whip up a couple of 18" MiniMarty subs.

I decided on using the Dayton Ultimax 18-22 driver, and powered them with an Inuke NU6000DSP amp.

 

I have attached my cut list also. i was lucky enough to score some 3600x600 sheets of 18mm mdf. Not quite the size of the minimarty (bout 10mm smaller) but close enough for me.

MINI MARTYSUB 3600x600 SHEET.PDF

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For anybody looking to take on this project, I recommend assembling in this order.

  1. Lay back panel flat on bench.
  2. attach bottom panel to back panel.
  3. attach side panels.
  4. attach rear port braces.
  5. attach bottom port braces.
  6. attach port bottom.
  7. attach port back.
  8. measure, cut, attach bracing.
  9. attach top.
  10. attach front baffles.

 

I did it the way it was suggested to assemble one of the smaller designs, that was way hard for a one man team.

The second one i did as i have suggested above and it went together MUCH easier by myself.

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Just skipping back a bit now. 

I set up the first one, set the high pass filter to 17hz  in the Inuke using THIS workaround,

I could not get my inuke to connect to my laptop so was forced to set it via the units front panel.

 

After which, I tried my had using REW for the first time ever, following THIS guide.

 

20170915_112735000_iOS.jpg.114019eed46f9a31858dd58b475e6133.jpg

 

As a first try, all seems to be going ok. It asked me to pull a few db at around 20hz and 70hz so i did. the result after another sweep was the green line.

i figure i will need to adjust the Q setting, i left it at default so it has spread the adjustment across the entire sweep by the looks of it, need to narrow it down more to the targeted 20 and 70hz 

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Now not all is good news I'm afraid, being a complete newb to DIY subwoofering and everything that goes with it, I fear I may have done something wrong.

I watched a movie at around -20 all with no problem (still single sub at this stage), but then a friend came over and i decided to see what it can really do.

So i put on some demo material and dialed it up to around -5.

But after maybe a couple of minutes there was some very bad rattles coming from inside the cabinet.

 

 

 

Edited by STAIN0
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Was definately a very shitty glie job from factory. 

Just took it out to the garage to glue it. 

The parts that were still stuck came apart with little force from me. 

Have just ran a good bead of gorilla glue on both sides of the spider plastic thingys and clamped it. 

?? 

IMG_5951.JPG

IMG_5952.JPG

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thanks Tony, yer, will most likely round off all the corners still then black duratex them.

just wanna put a few k's on them and make sure everything is good before dragging them back out to the garage.

Bit of an eyesore at the moment haha.

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I was planning on using ply as that is what I have experience with. I've never used MDF before, what do you just glue it no screws ? My mind is having a hard time believing that it has enough strength with just glue especially if you're making a sealed box you can imagine pressures it would have to withstand

Sent from my SM-N920I using Tapatalk

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I say "if done correctly" not because there is a special way it must be done. but more as a disclaimer in case someone does a hack job and it fails, then says hey, you said the glue is stronger than the material.

But yer, a nice bead of pva, some time, and clamps and/or nails will help a lot.

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  • 1 month later...
Guest Michael Hope

I have some UM-15 I am using in my 4 way. I hope this is a one-off other wise there will be hell to pay MrDayton

Edited by Michael Hope
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On 08/11/2017 at 9:25 AM, Kezzbot said:

Update?

Update is, if you have the opportunity, DO THIS!!!

 

Need to build me some bass traps now, and some other room treatments. It's a bit of an echo chamber at the moment with side walls only completely covered by curtains and nothing on front/back/ceiling walls.

Was watching Blade Runner the other night though, and the scenes where it was raining seriously made me look up. it 100% sounded like the rain was hitting the roof above my head.

 

Will write more about that bass once i have treated the room and dialed them in properly. but yer, dunno how my windows will hold up.

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windows will hold up.

 

You don't need them windows, who needs that natural sunlight, it's horrible stuff. Board em up, put another layer of gyprock over the top. You'll need to anyway with all that bass! You'll have peace of mind, not worrying about what the neighbors think!

 

Edit. And grats on the new AVR you'll be really hearing rain coming from above you when you hook up those Atmos overheads.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Been dragging these beasts around my room over the last two weekends taking REW measurements, realised lastnight that selecting left, right or both in REW was not running left, right or both subs.

I need to install ASIA4ALL software and select the ASIO driver for HDMI, then need to unplug the sub i do not wish to test.

 

Only feel a little bit stupid I didnt notice till after maybe 100 sweeps haha.

Looking forward to hitting it again tonight though now.

Will post a little guide on what I did when I'm happy with it.

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24 minutes ago, STAIN0 said:

Only feel a little bit stupid I didnt notice till after maybe 100 sweeps haha.

wait till someone suggests that you put the sub in the listening position and only move the mic? I know that process is successful with one sub.

 

I wonder if it works with two? Could you place one at the listening position measure. Select preferred location for first sub. Place second sub in listening position, measure, repeat and select the best location for the second sub. Since the wavelengths are long is there still an issue with output summing differently when you move the second sub to its preferred location? 

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16 minutes ago, hochopeper said:

wait till someone suggests that you put the sub in the listening position and only move the mic? I know that process is successful with one sub.

 

I wonder if it works with two? Could you place one at the listening position measure. Select preferred location for first sub. Place second sub in listening position, measure, repeat and select the best location for the second sub. Since the wavelengths are long is there still an issue with output summing differently when you move the second sub to its preferred location? 

It would work as well for the 2nd, 3rd or 18th sub as it did for the first. 

You would still need to set delays to have them sum constuctively. 

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Had a quick play again tonight. Just to make sure my method was going to work. 

For now I just stuck them in the back corners. 

25 minutes later I had this

4EFB6E6B-771B-4984-8D90-0DED44853756.jpeg.e694e4e99f522236ee01eeecd4160f25.jpeg

 

Will spend a bit more time on weekend positioning them to try and fix the 10db drop at 30hz. 

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