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2.35:1 , 2.37:1 , or 2.4:1 scope screen??


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Looking for advise as I'm nearly ready to purchase a "cinema scope" style screen

Most sellers offer a 2.35 screen but I notice on most widescreen movies on the back of the cover it says 2.40??

What am I missing ?

Is it only a tiny difference and you just zoom in a little bit to get rid of small black bars ,if I had a 130" scope screen @1.35:1 ratio,and I watch a 1.4 movie what am I going to see ?

I believe it's an option to purchase a 2.4:1 ratio screen but should I bother ?

Any feed back welcome ,cheers Muri

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51 minutes ago, muriwai said:

 

Looking for advise as I'm nearly ready to purchase a "cinema scope" style screen

Most sellers offer a 2.35 screen but I notice on most widescreen movies on the back of the cover it says 2.40??

What am I missing ?

Is it only a tiny difference and you just zoom in a little bit to get rid of small black bars ,if I had a 130" scope screen @1.35:1 ratio,and I watch a 1.4 movie what am I going to see ?

I believe it's an option to purchase a 2.4:1 ratio screen but should I bother ?

Any feed back welcome ,cheers Muri

 

I don't think you can get a 1.35 ratio scope screen. They're normally widescreen. 2.xx If you mean 2.35 scope, and you watch 2.40 content, you'll get bars top and bottom.
And visa versa if you watch a movie with a smaller ratio than the screen's native (ie; 1:85 ratio on a 2.4 screen or 2.35), you'll get bars on the left and right.

We have a 2.37 ratio screen, which for 80 - 90% of the content we watch is full screen. If I watch a 2.40 ratio movie on this screen (bigger than what my screen is), I get very slight black bars on the top and bottom.
Whether they bother you or not, is up to you. Some people HATE the white bars on left and right of the screen with a passion when watching content. For me, it doesn't bother me in the slightest. Though lately I have been slowly shifting towards picking out movies that are widescreen over 1.85. :)

If it were up to me, 2.35, 2.37 and 2.40 are all very similar at 130". I'd go 2.40 over 2.35 because the majority of widescreen movies I have are infact 2.40. But again, it won't be that noticeable. You'll be happy with any one of those ratios.

 

Edited by Dylan86.exe
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I wouldn't sweat it, there's still so much variation among the aspect ratios of films (especially older ones) that a bit of overscan is useful.  A projector isn't like a digital screen where you need pixel to pixel mapping to avoid artefacts.

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At the cinema they are different widths, on dvd and bd they are all the same width as TV's and projectors are fixed panel devices.

Only the black bars change in height according to the ratio - 2.35, 2.39, 2.40 etc.

Just for rounding, if your screen was 1080mm high;

1920/2.35 = 817mm of active picture  - 1080 less 817 = 263mm of black bars in total top and bottom (131.5 each)

1920/2.40 = 800mm of active picture - 1080 less 800 = 280mm of black bars in          "                       (140mm each)

which is a difference of 8.5mm in black bars top and bottom. If you where bothered by this just nudge the zoom a few times and push onto frame.

2.37 is how we make our scope screens here as that format seems to be a happy medium between 2.35 and 2.40 movies. It just fits the movies better on the screen without having to muck around with the zoom much if at all.

Then there are projectors today, epson, jvc, sony etc that can store many 'zoomed' aspects in the remote. Then you also have blanking which crops the image either top, bottom, left or right. So with a little setting up, you can pretty much get all the aspects on a 2.37 screen without any dramas.

 

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The white bars left and right on a scope screen when watching 16:9 material is just bare fabric that is not being used.

Because there is no light hitting the material there, it can be quite dark and in fact darker than some projector's black level.

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Go 2.37:1 if your going scope. Im 135" and wouldnt go any less. Its great. 16:9 can be a touch small on a scope screen but i just make the image overlap the top and bottom a bit and I dont miss anything it also reduces the size of the black bars on the sides. But at the end of the day scope is amazing for movies. I watch atleast 1 movie a day and i hate it when its in 16:9 format. The other day I let my wife pick a movie on her way home and when I put it on I was devasted it was in 16:9. I ended up leaving it zoomed and just pushed the whole image down a touch and found it didnt effect the image composition much at all. Rich at OzTheater is great for info. He helped me pick oit the best screen for my room and even helped me late on a sunday night over tge phone when I had some questions. Top bloke!

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  • 3 weeks later...

It really depends on how you will display you images  - zoom or A-Lens.  If using an A-Lens, will you curve the screen?  

I've had my curved AT screen since late 2006.  It is 2.37, yet after proper framing, there can still be slivers of black on a 2.40:1 film.    

The number "2.35:1" is more or a 'rounded' number chosen by the film industry back in film days.  The actual number for CinemaScope in film today is 2.39:1.  

Even with a digital system where a "true 4K" projector panel is 4096 x 2160 pixels and the ISCO D-Cinema Anamorphic is 1.25x stretch and you get the equivalent of 5120 pixels.

4096 x 1.25 = 5120.  Divide that by 2160 and you have 2.37:1.

 

if you are zooming it won't matter as you "trim" the zoom a bit for 2.40:1.

 

I think right now, I at 4% overscan to cover the small difference.  

 

 

 

 

 

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A big thanks to 709 ,I have a screen frame that I am going to do a mock/trial run @ 2.055 aspect ratio,so this is not a native ratio for any movies but will give me a 130" scope screen with masking on top , and 119" 16:9 with side masking ,so in effect it's a constant area screen,still mucking around with the room at the moment as I have completely reversed the direction of the room and the fixed screen is going @ the old rear of the room position ,thank god my over head atmos spkrs were symmetrically placed in the ceiling do no major ceiling holes to patch,will report back in couple of weeks re the "Muri " constant area screen trial ,big thanks again to 709 for the frame that I have very carefully modified ,and her "light house" theatre makes my room look like a plain black shoe box!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I love my scope screen from oz. Most of my movies are scope and I've nearly finished my side masking panels for 16:9. With the JVC zoom it's easy to switch. I did like the way 709 has done her lower horizontal masking. 

My only gripe is when the movie studios slip in a few seconds here and there of 'imax' footage. The picture goes above and below the screen. Can't see any image on the screen border black velvet but on the dark wall can still see it. Don't know why they do that, for an example, The Guardians of the Galaxy 2D is fine but the 3D does it.

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  • 1 month later...
  • 2 months later...


51 minutes ago, Dr Chopsus said:

check that you don't have the lock turned on in the menu

Hi Dr, the lock is off. I think i read somewhere that if hd content is being viewed it is blacked out. Anyways i sorted out what i needed to do with the lens shift. I was thinking the zoom option had something to do with what i wanted to achieve but it didn't.I finally worked out how to use the Lens shift properly and save my lens settings for viewing a scope movie so the whole screen is covered.Great projector.i am loving it.

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1 hour ago, Honey Badger said:

Question from a projector noob - can one diy a 2.0 screen in order to display the widest 2.35/2.4 and tallest 1.78/85 image possible? 

There's been a few examples over the years on AVS where people have had folding or sliding masks in DIY screens for a variety of aspect ratios.

Locally look at 709er's excellent Lighthouse Cinema build thread here - screen discussion starts on p.9.

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