How to stain pine wood?

[Happy]

Using what I can buy from Bunnings?

 

Wanna add some sideburns to Eric's fugly amp cases

 

 

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[Keith_W]

Your options: 

 

1. Water/alcohol based stain

The advantage is that this doesn't "seal" the wood and coat it with a layer of oil. If you need to stain the wood and glue something on it later, this is what you use. Cleanup is very easy, just run your brush under tap water and its clean. The disadvantage is that it tends to raise the grain of the wood, which means you have to sand it again. Also, it needs to be finished later with either varnish or oil. 

 

2. Oil based stain

Advantage is that it stains and seals in one step. Also, it tends not to raise the grain so much. Disadvantage is that it doesn't necessarily provide the best finish, so you have to finish it again. And you have to use an oil based varnish to finish it. Oh, and cleanup involves using solvents. 

 

3. Varnish with stain

Advantage is that with only one application, you stain and varnish and it provides a superb finish. The disadvantage is that the range of colours is somewhat limited. Also, you have to clean up using solvents, unless you buy a spray can. But spray cans are expensive and the colour options are even more limited. 

Edited June 24, 2017 by Keith_W

[mwhouston]

These two bases are the same, both blonde wood. To stain the darker one I prepped with 320 grit, rag stained with a Cabots stain. Allow a few days to dry. Light sand and re-stain. Then three coats of Estapol sanding after the first one.

 

 

 

 

[Happy]

@mwhouston I'm thinking of doing the same. Can you tell me which particular product you used please?

[Misternavi]

[mention=108489]mwhouston[/mention] I'm thinking of doing the same. Can you tell me which particular product you used please?

i wanted a lot of grain for the pine so i used water based stain painted on with a brush then wiped off. allow to dry and repeat 1-2 times.



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[Happy]

I can do without the grain. As long as they look woody in walnut cherry jarrah whatever

[Happy]

Something glossy would be cool.

[Darren69]

Cheap pine bookshelf from E Bay, one painted coat of Feast Watson Teak Brown with a  brush, then wiped off with a rag.

 

This makes it quite dark and one has to sand back a bit to bring the lighter colours and grain back out.

 

I then sealed with a litre of fine buffing oil and finished off with another good sand back and then two top coats of the fine buffing oil applied with a sponge. I would like to try their grain sealer sometime, it might save some $$ too but I seem to like using the one product to coat with, for some reason. OCD?

 

 

 

Edited June 28, 2017 by Darren69

[Mat-with-one-t]

When it comes to small areas such as the sides on an amp, I'd suggest don't bother with stained pine.  Find some proper nice timber.  You won't need much! Say, some Blackwood with fiddleback grain, or some nice redgum, or some recycled Messmate, etc.  All pretty easy to come by......

Personally I prefer minimal or no stain, but rather a finish that brings out the colour and feature of the timber naturally.....

[Happy]

When it comes to small areas such as the sides on an amp, I'd suggest don't bother with stained pine.  Find some proper nice timber.  You won't need much! Say, some Blackwood with fiddleback grain, or some nice redgum, or some recycled Messmate, etc.  All pretty easy to come by......
Personally I prefer minimal or no stain, but rather a finish that brings out the colour and feature of the timber naturally.....

I wouldn't mind better wood but there's a problem or two.

I don't know where to source them, and

I have a trio of amps to make sideburns lol


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[Mat-with-one-t]

I'd give you some if you were local!  Given you need so little, it may be worth approaching a proper furniture maker - I'm sure a slab of beer and you'll get them made!

Also, there's a great woodwork thread on this site....

 

Edited July 9, 2017 by Mat-with-one-t

[Happy]

11 hours ago, Mat-with-one-t said:

I'd give you some if you were local!  Given you need so little, it may be worth approaching a proper furniture maker - I'm sure a slab of beer and you'll get them made!

Also, there's a great woodwork thread on this site....

 

 

I'm actually happy to get some professional work done delivered to me if the price is reasonable.

 

Something nice with gloss finish would be nice.

 

Know any such service provider?

[Mat-with-one-t]

Not in NSW, but there are many.  It'd be an easy project so I'd highly recommend taking it on yourself!  You won't need much by way of tools and so on.

Have a look around locally for timber recyclers.  They'll be everywhere.  Then see what they have.  The tiny amount you need will be cheap (very large single pieces are expensive, but you really only need offcuts). 

I personally don't like very glossy finishes, but rather fairly mat finishes that simply bring out the timber.  I also love feature-packed timbers.

i also have a bias towards Aussie timbers.  Have a look at Redgum, Blackwood, messmate, ironbark, spotted gum, etc.  they are all hard as nails and will outlive anything.  

Maybe place a post asking for some help on this site.  There are a lot of keen and skilful woodworkers here!  

[audiofeline]

First comment:  the Varnish with stain in the same tin option is convenient, but doesn't give as good as result as applying a stain first and then the varnish.  It takes longer, but is worth it unless the job is not very special. 

 

If you want an ultra-smooth finish you will need to use a grain filler.  Lots of youtube demos, diluted Timermate wood filler from Bunnings was recommended by one person. 

 

Pine is a cheap timber, but it is also soft and dents easily. It's easy to bump amps, so i would tend to use a harder wood so it is more robust.  Hardwood is more expensive but you're not wanting much, so it won't add a huge cost.  As suggested above, if you buy an interesting timber you may not need to stain, only varnish.

 

The quality of the final result is dependent on the preparation time.  Don't be lazy with the fine-grade sanding, and you will have a good result.

[Powerglide]

On 14/07/2017 at 0:36 PM, audiofeline said:

First comment:  the Varnish with stain in the same tin option is convenient, but doesn't give as good as result as applying a stain first and then the varnish.  It takes longer, but is worth it unless the job is not very special. 

 

If you want an ultra-smooth finish you will need to use a grain filler.  Lots of youtube demos, diluted Timermate wood filler from Bunnings was recommended by one person. 

 

Pine is a cheap timber, but it is also soft and dents easily. It's easy to bump amps, so i would tend to use a harder wood so it is more robust.  Hardwood is more expensive but you're not wanting much, so it won't add a huge cost.  As suggested above, if you buy an interesting timber you may not need to stain, only varnish.

 

The quality of the final result is dependent on the preparation time.  Don't be lazy with the fine-grade sanding, and you will have a good result.

 

Couldn't agree more.

 

you don't want to be sanding after staining, especially pine, so a non grain raising stain is best my pick is wattyl professional traditional stain, sealer coat straight over the dry stain, thinned down so it drives in deep and dries hard. 400 grit but not to heavy handed if you cut through the stain your farked (sand back and start again).

I'm spraying, so a couple of top coats of two pack in one application is all I do super smooth straight off the gun, but the principal is just the same, by hand laying a number of thinner coats with sanding between is better than less thick coats, if you put enough coats on you could cut and polish at the end for piano finish Tannoy would be proud of, that's how the old dudes did it.

 

Hmmmmmm come to think of it, I'm an old dude

 

Happy, PM me if you want me to do it, I've got some American Oak, maybe have some Walnut, I'd choose something in keeping with your gear Teak and Rosewood were used a lot 

 

Al

 

[Happy]

Thanks guys paying someone to do it in the end lol


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