FS: DIY Acoustisorb3 absorption panels

[Happy]

SOLD

Item: absorption panels. 4 avail. 60x60x10 cm

Location: Bondi NSW

Condition: DIY used

Price: $10 each

RFS: Want less HiFi in the room

Info: timber frame wrapped in Hessian. Lousy job really. But the Acoustisorb3 inside alone cost much more.

Pics:

 

 

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[lonewolf]

Can I take these and your other ones on the other advert please. I think they are what I want? I recently got some people to renovate and convert my garage to a home theatre room and think they didn't really use good materials or enough wooden blocks on the frame or something as I am getting a lot of vibration and noise from the gyprock walls that they have put in with my subs going. Frankly it's ruining the sound in a really bad way and I prbabaly need something along those walls or behind the subs to stop those walls from vibrating as much

[HdB]

Possibly use some expanding foam to tie the gyprock panels down - without stiff studs and battens, hard to stop the low bass from making the walls 'move to their own tune', as they say.   You could add some heavy damping material (much heavier than carpet, etc) on them but the cost escalates fairly quickly

[rocky500]

They may sell easier if you take them out of the Hessian.

 

[lonewolf]

On 18/06/2017 at 7:16 PM, jrhill said:

Possibly use some expanding foam to tie the gyprock panels down - without stiff studs and battens, hard to stop the low bass from making the walls 'move to their own tune', as they say.   You could add some heavy damping material (much heavier than carpet, etc) on them but the cost escalates fairly quickly

 

The walls are already up and painted so i cant really get at the frame any more

[HdB]

Sorry, it's that builder's stuff that comes in a pressure can - you drill a hole on the wall, insert the nose-tip and press the button - expands about a million times - then just reseal the hole in the wall - a version of styrene foam - will be quite goid ro tie the inner and outer wall together that mayn't be perfect but should be a big improvement

The acoustic way of fixing the problem is either add another layer of plaster board with a flexi glue as a fastener (green glue for example)  or just add mass with one of the heavy damping materials - pro-audio uses a thing called leaded vinyl (no lead in it  these days) and this will stop the vibrations in the wall pretty well indeed - there are various other ways of adding mass to the plaster walls and most will do the trick.

[lonewolf]

22 hours ago, jrhill said:

Sorry, it's that builder's stuff that comes in a pressure can - you drill a hole on the wall, insert the nose-tip and press the button - expands about a million times - then just reseal the hole in the wall - a version of styrene foam - will be quite goid ro tie the inner and outer wall together that mayn't be perfect but should be a big improvement

The acoustic way of fixing the problem is either add another layer of plaster board with a flexi glue as a fastener (green glue for example)  or just add mass with one of the heavy damping materials - pro-audio uses a thing called leaded vinyl (no lead in it  these days) and this will stop the vibrations in the wall pretty well indeed - there are various other ways of adding mass to the plaster walls and most will do the trick.

 

HOLEY MOLEY!!! ARE YOU KIDDING ME!!!! That pressure can stuff sounds awesome and a great way to at least somewhat fix up my idiocy for not thinking about sound and insulation as well as for picking the people i picked to do the renos (who eventually robbed me as well afterwards , true story ). 

 

I have fake walls put in for the front and back sections (to cover the garage door as well as to put in power points into the walls as well as a fake rook to put in downlights and make the roof the same level (as previously it had a step in it). There is a lot of space in the roof as they were too lazy to remove the garage door opening maching which is still above the fake roof and attached to the real roof a couple of feet above.

 

 

[HdB]

If you've got big open spaces above your ceiling, this might present a difficult problem of another nature if insulation wasn't inserted - in fact, any large undampened volume is an invitation to acoustical problems and some are a real PIA to fix

   The most difficult frequencies to get right is below 100Hz (hence your subwoofer generated problem) and, unfortunately, you can't rely on the dsp to take care of these sorts of problem completely without 'choking your system badly - if you can get these bass areas approximately right, the overall system sound is just so much better - as has been said so often, get the bass right and the rest is a 'piece of cake' - don't you just love optimists!

 

 

[lonewolf]

On 21/06/2017 at 5:46 PM, jrhill said:

If you've got big open spaces above your ceiling, this might present a difficult problem of another nature if insulation wasn't inserted - in fact, any large undampened volume is an invitation to acoustical problems and some are a real PIA to fix

   The most difficult frequencies to get right is below 100Hz (hence your subwoofer generated problem) and, unfortunately, you can't rely on the dsp to take care of these sorts of problem completely without 'choking your system badly - if you can get these bass areas approximately right, the overall system sound is just so much better - as has been said so often, get the bass right and the rest is a 'piece of cake' - don't you just love optimists!

 

 

 

Yeah, I thought Audyssey will be able to fix it but it wasnt basically, I am keen on trying that pressure can but i presume i need a professional as i have downlights in the ceiling etc? I dont need it to be perfect, if it makes some improvement, i will be satisfied.

 

I bought these panels and the other ones the OP has, but my Wife is not impressed at all with the size and look. Can i remove the innards and use them another way?

[HdB]

I'm not an enthusiast about changing the ceiling downlights for lower power led ones but in your circumstances, it might be worth the trouble - the main problem is the sound/heat insulation covers the transformers/light fittings and becomes a potential fire hazard - the much lower power consumption 'led' ones avoid this problem but it can be avoided completely with a bit of attention to how you fit the acoustic filters around the ceiling fittings - it might be worth the trouble to talk to a professional about this and even get it done as it may effects your house insurance -- nearly all insurance companies look to find a 'non-compliance' issue to avoid payout these days, whatever the cause - on the other hand, many of our cheap 'power strip' aren't even tested and can become a real problem

 

As to the 'look' of the panels, yes you can easily change the covers - the heavy hessian sleeve does increase the absorbtion a bit and hence lowers the frequency slightly but it's minimal - to neaten things up a bit, just make up a simple light timber frame and stretch a 'dress' material across it like you see plenty of people do - and keep it a good few inches (or feet) away from the wall for better function

 

I have access to some of that thick heavy polycarb that's used to close the ends of those verandah/patio roofs and just cut 2" wide strips that I pin across the face/front of the panels to reduce the mid/high freq absorbtion - other people use heavy cardboard, ali strips (scrim, they call it I think), etc

 

The pressure cans contain a styrene foam and even in it's expanded form, isn't a particularly good sound absorber - I suggest this as a way to hold the wall sheets together to reduce the vibration and increase the wall 'stiffness' and to reduce the wall cavities that do resonate at different frequencies quite well, unfortunately - it doesn't actually absorb much of the low bass energy generated by your subwoofers that's transferred to the wall panels but it'll help with the overall sound improvement.

   The ceiling cavities are a rather more difficult proposition but again, the usual insulation/heat insulation used is maybe 4" thick and this is only effective as an absorber for frequencies about 200Hz ot rhereabouts - still an effective improvement in overall sound quality, particularly if you use the higher density sound barrier material, but won't really attenuate much of the sub woofer frequencies that tend to radiate everywhere - it's not an easy challenge you've set yourself but it can be achieved okay

[HdB]

Looking back at an earlier post about the way your rather unsatisfactory renovators left the garage door fasterens/frame (they did take the door itself?) that resulted in the large open cavity - I'd suggest you get a ceiling opening (from Bunnings, trade supplies, etc) and install a manhole to get access to this cavity as you've some interesting activities ahead of you with this - a handyman can pop this in for you but do get a check on their previous work - there are indeed rules about installing these but some people just ignore them  - you might 'network' your local area for this as there'll be a guy out there that will be experienced in fixing your exact problem (not just the manhole) as you won't be the first with this particular type of shoddy work - need some patience

 

As a tradesman I'm still quite surprised that people just don't do this or get second/third opinions as the 'cowboys' are still around despite the inspectors (not many these days) or the legislation (too late), as you've found - I hate fixing the bad workmanship of other's but some guys just love 'making poor work come good' - it's not common these days - all the best with this.