Speaker Position Problems Magnepan 20.7's

32 posts in this topic

I have a DSP for the subs - DSPeaker Antimode 2.0 and it works well to manage the subs and room modes.

My objective here is to try and find the right position for my Maggie 20.7's without a sub because I would actually prefer not to use them.

I'm also trying to achieve this without expending more money and adding to the complexity of the system.  I have a very strong slant to the KISS principle.


I'm hoping the combined knowledge of others may lead me to find a good speaker position.  So far I'm very grateful for the suggestions, so I try them (if possible) and have made progress.

I can now see that an extreme toe in position addresses some of the problems so I'll need to try that amount of toe in on all the positions in my grid to see if there is a spot where the frequency response improves further.  It may be incremental but that's the only way I know how. :)

Edited by Bilbo

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I do understand your desire to maximise your Magnepans and minimise (or not use) your subs.  I had the same intent for my SGR Audio CX3Bs, but MSO (Multi Sub Optimiser) did such a good job of integrating the SVS subs in my untreated family room that it became a non story.  MSO flattened the bass response way way better than what I tried with REW.


MSO gives you the ability to determine how much influence the subs have on your setup by constraining the subs gain and the crossover.


Given that you know REW, why not try MSO (which is free)?

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Because I run a HDD direct into a SOtM SMS-200 then into my DAC.

I prefer the sound compared to running it from my PC via Ethernet.

I might try MSO later down the track but my focus is on cracking the code of my listening room.

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the boing in the bass is a harmonic much higher than the modes you are trying to sort.

Slam, often felt with drum kits, is also a harmonic around 8kHz !  Nothing to do with bass.

You can toe the speakers as much as you like, it will make minimal difference to bass. Bass is "the room"..

You are fighting the room dimensions. Work with them, learn to love them...

Move the mic around the room, find several locations that measure bass well, then decide which of those possible listening

positions allows the main speakers to be moved to an isosceles triangle. (My isosceles is v close to equilateral).

 If it can't be done, it can't be done, you will never get the flat freq response, like 98% of everyone else's systems.


Edited by Nigel

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9 minutes ago, Nigel said:

 If it can't be done, it can't be done, you will never get the flat freq response, like 98% of everyone else's systems.


 Quite true but I haven't exhausted all possibilities yet.

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Hi Bilbo, just found your thread...


As soon as I saw your schematic, I said " turn your system round".

I still own Maggy 1.7's with twin SVS sealed subs...then upgraded to Sanders Sounds 10c with twin Sanders amps and a DEQX hp4.

It took  2 years, a house move, a room tear-down and lots of Superchunk traps but finally I am ecstatic! But that is another story.

The DEQX is a wonderful piece of kit, but I hear you re. $$$. Now Roger Sanders likes DSP gear, but never offered the DEQX in his "kit" as it moved him into a different market. He stuck with Behringer gear for quite some time. His latest 10e offering includes combined xover and DSP machine and I was so curious I search for a long time to find it. He offers a DBX Venu360. Worth a ponder, perhaps.

Also, Roger Sanders encourages an asymmetrical setup...Dipoles largely remove side and ceiling refections and he reasons asymmetrical bass causes asymmetrical nulls and we wont hear that as much.

Oh yes, I have 2 friends with 20.7s. 1 built stands out of car engine hoists !!!!! and the other bought stands off Bill Mclean in East Gosford. NSW. Both grip the wood cheeks to at least 1/2 way up. And elevate. And tilt. All good, IMHO.

Of all the dipoles I have owned, I have always tilted forwards, never back. Same with the current set up. Square up to the ear.



Edited by smiledon
spelling base to bass

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I thought long and hard about which way to orient the system when we first moved in two years ago.  I did some basic REW sweeps with the system the other way round but the peaks and dips were more accentuated so I settled on the current orientation.

If I can't achieve a reasonably smooth response below 400hz then I may have to resort to full range DSP.  But not just yet - more position & toe in moves to make before the white flag gets raised.

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