Jump to content

Bi wire jumping


Recommended Posts



Well for my ear-balls (and apparently this is rare) hooking the Valhallas up to the tweeters and jumping to the mids/woofers suits my tastes the best an doff memory, I think @onebaldbloke had his wires connected this way as well.

 

Otherwise the mids/highs seem a bit fatiguing when going black to tweeters and red to woofers and just both to woofers takes the musicality out of the equation a bit.

 

IMAG3121.thumb.jpg.71f03ff99e1af597f55835e3d315d1f0.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Having tried every bi-wire jumper under the sun (a Trump exaggeration there...I've tried many, including pricey ones) and gone through the whole bi-wire / single-wire comparison rigmarole with multiple speakers (including those 'designed' to be biwired), there's no doubt in my mind that bi-wire jumpers (or bi-wire cables) are not the way to go. Rather, get inside the speakers and link the wiring/terminals by whatever means practical. By far the best solution.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, goldiver said:

Having tried every bi-wire jumper under the sun (a Trump exaggeration there...I've tried many, including pricey ones) and gone through the whole bi-wire / single-wire comparison rigmarole with multiple speakers (including those 'designed' to be biwired), there's no doubt in my mind that bi-wire jumpers (or bi-wire cables) are not the way to go. Rather, get inside the speakers and link the wiring/terminals by whatever means practical. By far the best solution.

 

Yes, I tend to agree, the connections are a bit wonky at best, especially the two spades together.

 

A quality new quality single pair of terminals and some good soldering would be best.

 

I think someone mentioned that earlier. Maybe in the linked thread.

Edited by Darren69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hundreds (thousands?) of dollars worth of jumper cables to improve the "connection sound" on some cheap $10 speaker terminals... ?

I think you might have lost the plot on this one @Darren69 . Just install a pair of quality WBT or Furutech terminals and common up the separate internal x-over feeds accordingly, and call it a day before you get lost down the rabbit hole.

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites



On 19/05/2017 at 8:24 PM, Darren69 said:

 

Yes, I tend to agree, the connections are a bit wonky at best, especially the two spades together.

 

A quality new quality single pair of terminals and some good soldering would be best.

 

I think someone mentioned that earlier. Maybe in the linked thread.

 

Hey mate can you not have the banana of the jumpers and the speaker cable spade together and jump down to the bass terminals with the spades.

Like this ( don't mind the colours )

IMG_2123.thumb.JPG.03fb846c05234e4cd1b5914b62086db3.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

@Pops110  Hullo Davo, I could but Nordost reckon the cables are 'directional' hence the way I have them set up but can def give it a go. The thought did cross my mind but after finishing the plinths, positioning the speakers etc haven't got there yet.

 

No, I don't want the 'directional' argument to start here please. :D

 

Enlarge the picky here-

 

http://www.nordost.com/norse2/bi-wire-jumpers.php

 

Am a fan of the ETI cable pods after using them on the ML1's, they really hang on, so will prolly remove the bi wire capabilities eventually anyhow with two pair of those.

 

http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/ETI-Cablepod/ETI+Research+Cable+Pod+Binding+Post

 

 

Edited by Darren69
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest deanB

Well, I've read through this thread and my conclusion is conclusive. 

I'm buying some Coopers Best Extra stout today.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



40 minutes ago, deanB said:

Well, I've read through this thread and my conclusion is conclusive. 

I'm buying some Coopers Best Extra stout today.

 

It makes my system sound fantastic. :D

 

 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 20/05/2017 at 8:36 AM, Weka said:

Hundreds (thousands?) of dollars worth of jumper cables to improve the "connection sound" on some cheap $10 speaker terminals... ?

I think you might have lost the plot on this one @Darren69 . Just install a pair of quality WBT or Furutech terminals and common up the separate internal x-over feeds accordingly, and call it a day before you get lost down the rabbit hole.

 

 

Amen to that!

 

Daz don't lose sight of what really counts.

if your really trying to squeeze the 10 tenths out of your setup get rid of those biwire terminals if you not biwiring. 

And if you are still get rid of them.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, joz said:

 

Amen to that!

 

Daz don't lose sight of what really counts.

if your really trying to squeeze the 10 tenths out of your setup get rid of those biwire terminals if you not biwiring. 

And if you are still get rid of them.

 

Yes, will be taking them out of play, will go for the ETI cable pods methinks, as linked above. Just learning curve # 6,728 and I assume I will continue to learn right to the end.

 

 

I asked  a soldering question here, got no reply to date, any thoughts lads?

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Darren69 said:

 

I asked  a soldering question here, got no reply to date, any thoughts lads?

 

 

A quality silver solder from reputable brands like WBT, Cardas, Wonder Solder, etc, is as good as it gets.

A compression crimped connection is the best but I don't know of any binding posts that cater for that.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites



1 hour ago, Weka said:

 

A quality silver solder from reputable brands like WBT, Cardas, Wonder Solder, etc, is as good as it gets.

A compression crimped connection is the best but I don't know of any binding posts that cater for that.

 

 

Ok ta Wek.

 

I have only seen some posts that suggest you use those little electrical push on connectors (again, not sure that would be a quality fitting though I guess a lot of speakers are hooked up that way!), or one that had a little torx screw. Not sure what the ETI's do, will find out soon I guess.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well a bleak rainy morning here so a perfect morning to fit my new cable terminals.

 

Was nervous about my rusty soldering skills but once one starts something, the nerves go and the old lessons come back, the brain is an interesting thing. My old iron might be ready for retirement too, it took a while to get up to heat.

 

Result- fantastic and I can easily see (hear) why some manufacturers no longer offer bi wire. The music now sounds so much better in so may ways, soundstage is much more holistic and 'together'. The leading edge of the bass (kick drum, bass guitar pluck etc) also has noticeably more depth and presence. The Valhallas are also in a full blown headlock, not going anywhere.

 

One interesting thing- it was louder when the music started than it was before and had to turn it down a bit.

 

So thanks @Weka for the logic, worked a treat!!

 

To conclude-

 

Good bi wire jumpers sound better than tin plates.

 

Your system will sound different depending on how you configure your bi wiring hook up.

 

But at the end of the day, I believe quality speaker cables hooking directly into two terminals is the best setup, for passive speakers.

 

Jeez, I save a lot of you guys money with my fidgeting/experimenting, I reckon you'se owe me some TAD's or B&W 800's or something by now.

 

The above comments relate to my system of mono blocks, one feeding one speaker each. I did not try doubling up speaker cables from the amps (cant afford more Valhallas and besides, Nordost don't recommend it anyway, they don't even sell Bi wire anymore), nor did I try bi-amping etc, which may give different results again so others might comment on the pros/cons of those other approaches.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top