Jump to content

Computer case fan questions


Recommended Posts



12 minutes ago, lusk said:

 

Why don't you just get a 240 volt fan wire it to a power lead and turn it on/off when required. No need for power supplies etc.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/SUNON-120mm-Computer-Case-Fan/131487/bn_1660525/i.html

 

 

Was hoping to somehow have everything turn on when I switch the pre amp on via the remote.

 

The pre has triggers which trigger the mono's into life and the CDP/telly et al have their own remotes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Darren69 said:

 

Was hoping to somehow have everything turn on when I switch the pre amp on via the remote.

 

The pre has triggers which trigger the mono's into life and the CDP/telly et al have their own remotes.

 

Can use a 12v coil, 240Volt relay and use 12v trigger from pre amp to turn on/off. It is same as others have suggested except no need for 12v dc power supply for fans.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Very interesting, in fact I think all that I need is two silent fans that are always turned on but only run when the temp gets above say 45 deg or something.

 

I don't think they need to have anything to do with the Parasound trigger mechanism, now I think about it.

 

Oh @125dBmonster has already said that. :D

 

Edited by Darren69
Link to comment
Share on other sites



I'm cooling my home theatre receiver (located inside a cabinet with poor ventilation) with a large 160mm fan powered by an old Nokia phone charger wall wart, and plugged into a power board with a master/slave arrangement (ie. when the receiver is switched on, the power board recognises this and powers up the fan at the same time). It works very well indeed.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Darren69 said:

Very interesting, in fact I think all that I need is two silent fans that are always turned on but only run when the temp gets above say 45 deg or something.

 

I don't think they need to have anything to do with the Parasound trigger mechanism, now I think about it.

The Arctic type fans run quietly and with the temperature sensor will run slowly up until about 38 degrees.

I cannot hear it when it runs fast in my listening chair.

I have been thinking about using the USB port on the PVR to do the same thing using a solid state relay.

 

SSR_1.jpg.6ab4828b1fc2895e0db883a80a81082e.jpg

 

What is the "Buzzle" that is included in the eBay item?
 

Edited by soundbyte
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 12/02/2017 at 11:22 AM, 125dBmonster said:

A few ideas

 

Mag PC  lev fans running slow are inaudible, lots of tech in these to make them quiet.

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NEW-Corsair-ML140-Pro-LED-140mm-Premium-Mag-Lev-Fan-Blue-/262770235083?hash=item3d2e5396cb:g:MrEAAOSw5cNYWK8S

 

PWM Speed and temp controller

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-PWM-PC-CPU-Fan-Temperature-Control-Speed-Controller-Module-High-Temp-Alarm-/262723958505?hash=item3d2b9176e9:g:yMUAAOSwo4pYLrj

 

Would use a 12v wall wart to run and avoid using the amp trigger or Daz the chippy playing with mains volts. :thumb:

KISS really easy and totally reliable

 

Brilliant.

 

Oddly ignored.

 

Too smart to be appreciated?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Nada said:

 

Brilliant.

 

Oddly ignored.

 

Too smart to be appreciated?

 

Wasn't ignored by me. That's the way I am going.

 

Have you got any advice/tips etc? Done anything similar?

 

Edited by Darren69
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



29 minutes ago, Darren69 said:

 

Wasn't ignored by me. That's the way I am going.

 

Have you found a PWM Speed and temp controller that actually turns off below a set temperature so the fan doesnt run 24/24?

 

This one  seems to do the trick and claims to work on non-PWM fans so you select a fan without LED's thats super quiet:  http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=DC+12V+24V+2A+Automatic+PWM+PC+CPU&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15

 

s-l500.jpg

 

s-l500.jpg

Edited by Nada
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Darren69 said:

 

I got this one-...Does it run 24/7? :D

 

It's all a bit greek to me, hence the thread.

 

your eBay blurb proclaims:

When the temperature lower than the accelerated temperature, then output at the minimum rotation speed

 

Im sorry to say it does look like its always on from my attempt in translating the blurb from Chenglish to Aussie vernacular I got "when its cooler then a virgins ass it purrs 24/24"

 

Take a look at my suggestion for a PWM that shuts off under 30C.

and hope it runs the fan silently without switching acceleration noise.

 

Then for a quiet fan selection take a listen to the mp3's of quiet fans spinning

 

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

 

The recording starts with 5 second segments of room ambiance, then the fan at various levels. For the most realistic results, set the volume so that the starting ambient level is just barely audible, then don't change the volume setting again.

  • Noctua NF-P14 FLX
    — 550 RPM (11 dBA@1m)
    — 700 RPM (13 dBA@1m)
    — 900 RPM (17~18 dBA@1m)
    — 1,100 RPM (23~24 dBA@1m)
    — 1,200 RPM (26 dBA@1m)

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=DC-12V-24V-2A-Automatic-PWM-PC-CPU-Fan-&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Noctua+NF-P14+FLX&_sacat=0

 

 

 

Edited by Nada
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interestingly, the 140mm  mag lev fan that goes into service on the Lounge I7 that is normally air natural cooled (after the first thermal shut down in Summer) , is inaudible at 500mm, so if under a bench wouldn't matter if operated via the power point, or be able to switch off, as you generally wouldn't know it's there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Nada said:

 

your eBay blurb proclaims:

When the temperature lower than the accelerated temperature, then output at the minimum rotation speed

 

Im sorry to say it does look like its always on from my attempt in translating the blurb from Chenglish to Aussie vernacular I got "when its cooler then a virgins ass it purrs 24/24"

 

Take a look at my suggestion for a PWM that shuts off under 30C.

and hope it runs the fan silently without switching acceleration noise.

 

Then for a quiet fan selection take a listen to the mp3's of quiet fans spinning

 

http://www.silentpcreview.com/article1345-page7.html

 

The recording starts with 5 second segments of room ambiance, then the fan at various levels. For the most realistic results, set the volume so that the starting ambient level is just barely audible, then don't change the volume setting again.

  • Noctua NF-P14 FLX
    — 550 RPM (11 dBA@1m)
    — 700 RPM (13 dBA@1m)
    — 900 RPM (17~18 dBA@1m)
    — 1,100 RPM (23~24 dBA@1m)
    — 1,200 RPM (26 dBA@1m)

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_odkw=DC-12V-24V-2A-Automatic-PWM-PC-CPU-Fan-&LH_PrefLoc=2&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.TRS0&_nkw=Noctua+NF-P14+FLX&_sacat=0

 

 

 

 

Thanks Nads, shall have a good look.

 

Glad to hear I thought it was Greek because it actually was.....or something like that...

 

Edit- went with Nads suggestion for a controller, does anyone want the first one I ordered? It's your for free but you have to have posted in this thread. Didn't cost me much. First in and all that.

Edited by Darren69
Link to comment
Share on other sites



4 hours ago, Darren69 said:

Very interesting, in fact I think all that I need is two silent fans that are always turned on but only run when the temp gets above say 45 deg or something.

 

I don't think they need to have anything to do with the Parasound trigger mechanism, now I think about it.

 

Oh @125dBmonster has already said that. :D

 

Hi Daz, once you have the fans and speed controller and you are comfortable it all works, then we can sort out a trigger on for your cooling system, no problem.

 

Think "high beam relay" that you would install for a set of 135w driving lights, existing headlight relay triggers the high beam relay connected to the battery, sound familiar Mr Chippy ?

 

The Parasound will have a 12v trigger that is energised when it is on. (think trigger high beam light from battery)

 

That trigger will not be able to deliver current  to operate the speed controller and fan, and maybe possibly let out an expensive Blue Genie (which you are trying to avoid)

The Relay

The relay has a coil (12v), that the Parasound (should) operate, without a problem.

Parasound Trigger connects to relay coil ony.

 

Use the relay normally open contacts, which close when relay trigger is on.

 

No need for a fuse in this circuit as the wall wart 12v supply is normally kill proof and doesn't mind being dead shorted on the 12v side, just switching off (observe led on side of Wall Wart with short circuit on 12v side go out)

 

Greek is a language learnt over a few sessions.

Mechanical_relay_diode.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, 125dBmonster said:

Hi Daz, once you have the fans and speed controller and you are comfortable it all works, then we can sort out a trigger on for your cooling system, no problem.

 

Think "high beam relay" that you would install for a set of 135w driving lights, existing headlight relay triggers the high beam relay connected to the battery, sound familiar Mr Chippy ?

 

The Parasound will have a 12v trigger that is energised when it is on. (think trigger high beam light from battery)

 

That trigger will not be able to deliver current  to operate the speed controller and fan, and maybe possibly let out an expensive Blue Genie (which you are trying to avoid)

The Relay

The relay has a coil (12v), that the Parasound (should) operate, without a problem.

Parasound Trigger connects to relay coil ony.

 

Use the relay normally open contacts, which close when relay trigger is on.

 

No need for a fuse in this circuit as the wall wart 12v supply is normally kill proof and doesn't mind being dead shorted on the 12v side, just switching off (observe led on side of Wall Wart with short circuit on 12v side go out)

 

Greek is a language learnt over a few sessions.

Mechanical_relay_diode.jpg

I think you should also have diode across the trigger relay coil as well to be complete.

Edited by soundbyte
Link to comment
Share on other sites



1 hour ago, soundbyte said:

I think you should also have diode across the trigger relay col as well to be complete.

Nah,

it will create a dead short on the trigger if connected incorrectly, or if it fails on the Parasound Trigger out

the coil of the relay isn't polarity sensitive (normally) and will work either way.

 

The controller however may be very sensitive to reverse polarity and die immediately if connected wrongly, The diode is optional in the power circuit as well. In aid of making it easy

 

edit, but could be useful as a flyback :) diode

 

Use a multimeter, it's a friend

Edited by Guest
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Regarding the fans themselves. I'm particularly sensitive to fan noise - the fans that came with my AV temperature controlled fan setup were much too noisy and did not move enough air even at low speeds. Having used them for all of my PC build's over the years, I replaced them with Noctua fans (which have a top reputation for good reason) and all was good.  They're a little pricey and perhaps a tad ugly colour-scheme wise but hey ...form over function : )

Edited by Rai
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.




×
×
  • Create New...
To Top