b.d Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 Can anyone tell me if Bunnings solder is ok for soldering loudspeaker cables? it says: TradeFlame Silver Solder 15G 1.6mm silver acid core, lead free 220 melt temp, 3.5% silver content, plumbing. Also, another beginner question - all the soldering tutorials I've seen mention the importance of keeping joint still. This seems easy to do with joining two wires together, but I don't see how this can be managed soldering the end of a speaker cable to a driver tab? Does it matter ones hand moves a bit holding the cable? The joints seems to come out very dull, not all nice and shiny like they supposed to, is this from very slight movement? Thanks Bevan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LogicprObe Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 You have to apply a lot of heat to silver solder to melt it. Best to use lead/tin with a resin core from Jaycar. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwhouston Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 No lead geralky means hard to use. I only use German WBT silver solder with lead in it and silver. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Muon Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 I also use lead based solder, It's easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_m_54 Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) If it is this stuff, don't use it. It's acid core and shouldn't be used on any electronics. https://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-15g-silver-solder_p5910272 As others have said, get some 60/40 solder, resin cored. Edit: I just realised, you even said it's acid cored solder.... don't use it. Edited September 14, 2016 by bob_m_54 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krispy Audio Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 (edited) Yes that sounds like plumbing solder for pipes, where you'd usually use a gas flame torch for. I use lead-free solder personally, as I'd rather not breathe in the lead fumes! It flows fine and easily with even a moderate iron. For your last question, you can use a '3rd hand' tool, or even a helper, otherwise see if you can hold the wire and solder in one hand. This will help you keep the wire as still as possible. For me, the main thing is to keep the contact tight between wire and terminal. That's what you're trying to achieve - to maximise the amount of actual wire touching the terminal, and minimising the amount of current that has to travel through the solder itself. Edited September 14, 2016 by Krispy Audio 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevesie Posted September 14, 2016 Share Posted September 14, 2016 https://www.bunnings.com.au/consolidated-alloys-1-6mm-x-16g-resin-core-40-60-solder-hobby-pack_p5060566 https://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-15g-electrical-solder_p5910270 Either of those should be suitable. I'd start again with the right solder - heat the old stuff and wipe as much as you can off the tab. As to holding the wire still while soldering, If the tab has a hole in the middle, just poke the wire through and bend it around so it holds itself. Otherwise, flow some solder onto the tab, and the wire, and then heat the two together holding the wire against the tab as the solder cools to keep it steady. Or just wrap it around the entire tab before you solder. Apply enough heat so the solder flows and appears to soak into the parts being soldered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_m_54 Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Actually Steve, the 60/40 (Sn60) is better for electronics hand soldering, than 40/60 (Sn40). It requires less heat than the 40/60. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArthurDent Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 Bigger range and far cheaper at Jaycar. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b.d Posted September 15, 2016 Author Share Posted September 15, 2016 Thanks very much guys, that's answered all my questions nicely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevesie Posted September 15, 2016 Share Posted September 15, 2016 20 hours ago, bob_m_54 said: Actually Steve, the 60/40 (Sn60) is better for electronics hand soldering, than 40/60 (Sn40). It requires less heat than the 40/60. Hmm, not sure which one it is - the details say it's 60/40. But yes, Jaycar is the better bet if you have one nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tassie tiger Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 On 15/9/2016 at 0:48 AM, Krispy Audio said: ... I use lead-free solder personally, as I'd rather not breathe in the lead fumes! It flows fine and easily with even a moderate iron. ... AFAIK the 'fumes' given off during soldering are caused by the (resin, aka rosin) flux burning off, not the lead. Fume extraction, or at least, fume dispersion via a fan of some sort is recommended, as rosin/resin flux may contain hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride or ammonium chloride (see the ever helpful Wikipedia). If lead-based solder is used, which I swear by, then wash hands thoroughly after handling. Just my opinion anyways! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Addicted to music Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 56 minutes ago, tassie tiger said: AFAIK the 'fumes' given off during soldering are caused by the (resin, aka rosin) flux burning off, not the lead. Fume extraction, or at least, fume dispersion via a fan of some sort is recommended, as rosin/resin flux may contain hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride or ammonium chloride (see the ever helpful Wikipedia). If lead-based solder is used, which I swear by, then wash hands thoroughly after handling. Just my opinion anyways! Spot on.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob_m_54 Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 5 hours ago, Stevesie said: Hmm, not sure which one it is - the details say it's 60/40. But yes, Jaycar is the better bet if you have one nearby. Yes, I think bumblings have stuffed up the description. The package states "40/60" which is 40% tin and 60% lead. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LogicprObe Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 11 hours ago, tassie tiger said: AFAIK the 'fumes' given off during soldering are caused by the (resin, aka rosin) flux burning off, not the lead. Fume extraction, or at least, fume dispersion via a fan of some sort is recommended, as rosin/resin flux may contain hydrochloric acid, zinc chloride or ammonium chloride (see the ever helpful Wikipedia). If lead-based solder is used, which I swear by, then wash hands thoroughly after handling. Just my opinion anyways! For casual soldering, don't worry about the fumes. Just don't deliberately breathe them in. If I'm soldering a lot, I just use a little USB powered desk fan to push the fumes lightly away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rmpfyf Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Sounds like you need more heat relative to what you're using. The movement may not help this, though a high powered temp-controlled iron is a nice thing to have and doesn't have to be expensive. ` Love this - may help - https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/common-problems Open window and a desk fan work well and are advised. Wash hands afterwards and don't use your mouth to hold the solder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LogicprObe Posted September 16, 2016 Share Posted September 16, 2016 Yes, but you don't use plumber's solder on electronics. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren69 Posted May 21, 2017 Share Posted May 21, 2017 Gents, want to get rid of the continually loose speaker terminals I currently have with some ETI cable pods, was impressed with them on the ML1's. http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/ETI-Cablepod/ETI+Research+Cable+Pod+Binding+Post Would this Bunnings solder be OK- https://www.bunnings.com.au/tradeflame-85g-electrical-solder_p5910269 or should I just get some solder as well with the terminals? http://www.soundlabsgroup.com.au/p/MU-Solder/Mundorf+Solder ETI terminals are 'Gold flashed Tellurium Copper' apparently. An no, there's no bloody Jaycar nearby. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundbyte Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 I could pick up some solder for you, Jaycar is on the Gold Coast, will pass through there on the way south. Russell. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Darren69 Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 11 minutes ago, soundbyte said: I could pick up some solder for you, Jaycar is on the Gold Coast, will pass through there on the way south. Russell. Russell thanks mate, I ordered some from Soundlabs with the terminals. Thanks for the offer. See you soon! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LogicprObe Posted May 22, 2017 Share Posted May 22, 2017 I hope you two aren't sniffing anything more than solder fumes! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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