Massive Tapped Horn project started

Upset my wife terribly yesterday when she saw the 'coffin' in the workshop being built. I thought I was going to be placed in it...

2.2m long...approx 400 square.

I've gone with the P-Audio 12-inch, 300-watt, 97.4dB driver -

http://www.cannonsound.com.au/p/577280/paudio-c12-300mb-300-watt-12-inch-mid-bass.html

...plus a Jaycar 600-watt amp....which I'll run off-board for now.

http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0509&CATID=15&form=CAT&SUBCATID=443

Should be fun. Anyone got some good pipe organ music they can bring over (Glenhaven)?

Today I'll mount the driver and hook up the amp. I'll add a little dampening...approx 1/3 of the horn using polyester fill sheet....based on input from others who have tried this horn

There's two horizontal bracing panels which are not shown in the pic. These run for most of the lengths of each side of the horn. I'll also add some discrete 45 degree braces to the corners.

One side panel will be removable using a cork or rubber 'gasket.'

Q for DIY'ers. The shape of the horn lends itself well to be gyprocked into the corner(s) of the room. Has anyone done this before? What should I watch out for re gyprock panels being placed next to a sub? Should I have a cavity or sound deadening agent between, for example?

Regards.

Andrew

Extra pics after mods on the weekend, including doubling the amount of polyester dampening, plus extra scews on the removable panel.

Also realised the driver was 'scratching'...but it seemed to fix itself after it being removed.

I also added an extra layer of cardboard as a ring separating the driver from the baffle face...just in case there was too much excursion.

The sound is much better....not as raw...but still massive. Can hardly touch the volume control without silly things happening.

I think the amp is a poor match...and I'd like to try a smaller unit....possibly valve, given the driver is 97dB.

Extra pic

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Can't help but be impressed by a project like this!

One thing you should be careful of is rigidly attaching it to the walls. Rather than build it in like that, I'd simply design it to fit in close, then use the same paint. Even put in a false skirting board around it if you like. You just need a tiny gap between it and the walls to avoid vibrating the walls.

Do you have the ability to put this thing under the room? In that case, you merely determine the best location, and install it under the floor. Use a grille under the carpet. This also gives a great deal more placement flexibility, as using this method, you can put it in all kinds of places you wouldn't want a box actually in the room.

If you do attach a box like this to the room in a built in method, then at the points where it is connected, you really should have some very solid structure to prevent vibrations. Ideally if doing this you would have push pull drivers which helps this a great deal.

Have you done any measurement/simulation?

Tell us more! How do they sound?

I'd be more inclined to lay that sucker down on the floor. (Looks great whatever you do with it though.)