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About Marshall_SLX

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  1. Massdrop have it for $199 USD but with exchange and shipping its $365 AUD. Alternatively there is a seller based out of Hong Kong on Ebay selling it for $320 with 98.8% and 4500 sales that sells lots of audio gear, see the link below. Does anyone have experience as to where is the best place to buy this from.
  2. I agree Al, there are a number of AVRs that have bypass and analogue controlled volume, this post is mainly aimed at those just getting into turntables who probably own a run of the mill AVR bought from JB HiFi or the likes of, nearly all of which will be running a digital volume control.
  3. Just thought i would post this up as i made a few posts in a thread about entry level turntables recently and a few people were surprised by this, as was i when i first found out about it. If you are using an AVR with your turntable there is a very high chance it is running all analogue signals through an ADC DAC (analogue>digital>analogue) process in the volume control, therefore ruining your turntables signal. Even expensive units with a phono input will do this, only some high end models with a bypass function actually keep the signal analogue (i know a few marantz models offer this and yamaha). There are a few ways to check this i will detail below: * Play your TT then try to turn on dolby pro logic or Neo6 etc, if it still makes sound then your signal is being digitized * Open your unit and look at the area behind the volume control, if its a standard volume pot theres a chance it is keeping it analogue (run the test above), if theres no volume pot its digitizing your signal * If you can control the volume by remote that is a sign but not a giveaway sign, some units are controllable by remote but use a motor to turn an actual pot inside the unit, other units (Rega integrateds, i dont know if higher priced AVRs do this) use a set of stepped resistors that are selectable by remote but keep the signal analogue Basically if you are running an AVR check these things and in 99% of cases i think you will be disappointed, even higher priced units will do this, my $1k Harman Kardon AVR digitizes all inputs, my old late 90s Kenwood also digitized all inputs. I think this is a very important bit of info that a lot of people getting into analogue dont know about and its very hard to find info about. If you are running a budget system and find out that your AVR is in fact digitizing, go and buy a cheap integrated stereo unit and this will solve your problem, i have listed a few options at modest price points below. Rotel RA02, RA01, RA931 MKI or MKII, older RA820s and 930ax units, all of these you can find between $50 and $200. You may even be able to get an older Rotel Pre/Power separate system at around $400 - $500. Marantz and NAD also have very good cheap options at the same price points but im not familiar with their models. Next step up would be one of the older Rega amps, Brio/Mira/Elex clamshell, Brio 2000/Brio 3/Mira 2000/Mira 3 (Mira 3 starting to get up a little in price). The Rega units will be between $200 and $500. The sweet spot is the Brio 3 price/performance wise, $250 - $350 and a step up on other models although ive not heard a clamshell elex but it might be up there. Mira 3 i feel is a good step up in detail and is a little more refined than a Brio 3 and will cost $400 ish. I for the moment have chosen to stick with the Mira 3, for $450 used i dont think you can do better. The Rotels are rather clinical sounding great detail with forward mids/treble, bass is good and fast but doesnt dig as low as most Marantz and i think NAD offerings. However Marantz has a darker less clinical sound, NAD i cant give an acurate opinion on. If you can find one then a Musical Fidelity A100X may indeed be the best option if you prefer a warmer even boarding on tube like sound as they are almost entirely class A and they also offer MM and MC phono inputs, be warned though they run crazy hot and finding a non cooked used one is a lottery. Cheers.
  4. Item: Rega Ear Headphone amp Price Range: Negotiable Item Condition: Used Extra Info: Either MKI or MKII. Cheers.
  5. Super deal here for someone with that budget, way better than the new stuff at that price point.
  6. Ill take them
  7. I certainly agree with the last two posts i was just pondering the fact that ive seen reference to the new 330 being better than the 303 etc but ive never seen any reference to the 700 and the silence here leads me to believe that the 700 is still superior. I mean if the 330 was that good they would be using every bit of marketing to push it surely. The plastic turret (thanks for the proper terminology johnmath) i can understand on the RP3/P3 but you would think a premium version of it would appear on the RP6/P6, ide pay any extra $150 for an RP6 if it had a stainless 3 point turret even if the rest of the arm is the same. Johnmath of the RB arms you have seen what is your impression of the 303 or similar vs the 700? Main reason ive not bought an RP6 in the past is i just cant get past the fact that the arm is the same and while yes other parts are upgraded its not to the same level that the P7 was upgraded over the P5. P7 gives you a proper subplatter, dual belts and a considerably improved platter. RP6 gives you a cheapskate subplatter and a moderately improved platter and an upgraded bearing which the P7 probably also has/was already better in the P5 vs RP3 anyway. I am really hoping the new P6 addresses some of these issues because if it does i will certainly get one even if it does keep the stock RB330 arm.
  8. Yes thanks for that article i do tend to agree even though i havnt heard either table. Just the basic chipboard plinth on the P7 doesnt fill me with confidence. Rega has no problem stating the 330 beats the 303 beats the 301 beats the 300 but ive never seen mention of the new arms bettering the RB700 from Rega or in forum posts. I do think ill wait and see how much the new P6 costs. Still if this P7 indeed does become available i will probably not be able to resist. Just as a side note ide love to get an RP6, mount an RB808, put a GT or Michael Lim subplatter on it, double pulley and a motor isolation base. That would top a P7 for sure and might come close to an RP8 given the motor isolation. Not cost effective though unless i can find a cheap RP6 without an arm.
  9. Hi all has anyone done this comparison yet? Cant find any informative threads on it but i am surmising that its gotta be close now. From what ive read the 303 was starting to get close but wasn't quite there as its 3 point mounting base is plasticy and not particularly solid compared to the stainless block of the RB700. The 330 has a more solid looking mount but it appears to be the same plasticy material of the 303/301. From what ive read no one seems to know which arm has the better bearings and tolerance and just guess that the 700 is better (probably a safe bet but who knows really) but with a further claimed improvement in bearings from Rega surely the 330 is equal now. I note the 330 uses the old antiskate mech from the 300 not the plunger style as found on the 301/303/700/808/1000/2000 so i have to assume the plunger style is better given its exclusive use on all Regas top arms (best arm without it was the 600). Mainly asking because a bloke i know may be selling his P7 but i am mindful of the fact that the new P6 is getting closer and will most likely have the 330. No doubt the plinth on the new P6 will be better than the P7 but i cant see any other components bettering the P7 as the P7 has a proper machined subplatter, dual belts, ceramic platter and TTPSU already. If the new P6 is anything like the RP6 itl still have the aluminium cap over the phenolic subplatter, single belt, sandwich glass platter all of which are lesser parts compared to the P7. The new TTPSU is probably better however. Suppose it all remains to be seen but i have to admit i do like the idea of having a P7 (currently have a P3 - 24, exact, TTPSU). 330 pros: Better arm tube cad designed etc, newer, possibly equal bearings and tolerance 700 pros: Mounts better/rigid, better antiskate?, possibly slightly higher quality bearings and tolerance I could be way off here, can anyone offer any further insight. Cheers
  10. Yeah buy it from a shop but if you're buying used then getting a separate cart from elsewhere i reckon you could get it fitted... i did... i bought a used P3 - 24 then got my cart fitted and balanced by Living Sound in Brisbane cost $100 including a new white belt, seemed ok to me. Just call the shop up and see what they can do.
  11. Has anyone done this comparison? On any level maybe with an RP6 and a heavily modded P3 even? Consider the following and what would come out on top: Michael Lim Style RP8: RB808 or similar arm RB700, 900 or 1000 - $1,200 AUD RB808 Acrylic plinth with the RP8/10 colour cut out on top - $185 USD Top aluminium brace - tonearm to bearing hub - $25 USD Bottom aluminium brace - 3 feet and bearing hub - $66 USD Aluminium adjustable feet - $66 USD Bronze Bearing hub - $48 RP6 replacement subplatter - $175 USD Acrylic platter - $130 USD Double pulley - $45 USD Motor Isolation base - $100 USD Rega Motor - $299 AUD TTPSU - $400 AUD Total: around about $3,000 AUD or $2,300 AUD if you already have the motor and TTPSU or $840 USD plus shipping to get all the Micheal Lim stuff if you have a good arm already A new RP8 is $3,499 i know you can get this down a bit if ex demo or 2nds. Only concern would be the VTA with a thick subplatter then a 23mm acrylic platter would need some serious spacers to make that work, i know people have done it but theres never a closeup of the arm base to see just how much it is shimmed. Anyway im not thinking of doing this just a hypothetical and to see if anyone here has done it because i know people have built entire tables from Michael Lims stuff and i am interested to hear peoples experiences. I reckon if you already had a TTPSU and motor then sold off the rest of it you could build it for $2,000 including a new RB808 arm and you have a very sweet table. Cheers all.
  12. My Rega has sold but theres some cracking rotel separates on gumtree in Vic that would be better driving your speakers. Below is a cracking deal... MM/MC phono too! and the power amp is 160 watts per channel! These next 2 are newer but lack the MC phono and the power amp is 70 watts and the power amp is in WA unfortunately. Ide seriously look at the first one.
  13. One for sale in perth from gumtree, $750 though. I have a Brio 3 for sale $350 shipped.
  14. Rega Brio 3, $350 incl postage, the hazy look is just glare from the table varnish.
  15. I know theres a million threads on it and ive read a lot of them however i think i have a unique situation. My turntable currently sits on a fairly sturdy pull out draw shelf that is DIY'ed into my entertainment unit (see pic). I had a lowly debut 3 turntable but now with the Rega and upgraded phono and amp i want to make sure i get the most out of it so am considering the following options and would like some feedback. I am leaning toward option 1. Pics: 20170324 105522 20170324 105615 Option 1: Tried and true - Cut out area on units top enough for the dust cover to be raised during play back, this brings in some structural issues to the unit top considering i have a 75 inch tv on it but i think i can work those out. - Remove draw slides and install a marble, granite, slate, maple etc platform that is firmly attached and deadened underneath by dynamat. I will then add a sandbox with sorbothane feet ontop of the platform. This i think may be my best solution but involves a lot of work and will look a bit odd as the new platform will permanently jut out from the front of the unit by about 200mm, this isnt really a concern. Only thing that irks me here is it goes against Rega's design philosophy. Another positive here is it sits the turntable further back away from the right speaker by about 300mm as it is fairly close to the speaker currently with the draw fully extended. Option 2: Rega way - Follow Rega's design philosophy and build an aluminum frame much like the top of the Rega wall shelf into the space. This frame will be able to be pulled out from the space and secured in place for playback by large wingnuts therefor making the whole aluminum structure rigid (unlike the current draw setup). Advantages here are a bit less work, it follows Rega's design philosophy and i dont have to cut away the top of the unit. Extra info the top of the tv unit is actually a separate piece that is basically just a large riser and will be isolated from the actual cabinet with dynamat so there will be a certain level of isolation as well as the light and rigid idea. I do like this idea as it seems the Rega wall shelf is the way to go for most people, unfortunately i am renting and cant screw into the walls. I should mention my floor is the concrete house slab and the cabinet will be spiked to the floor eventually. Option 3: Compromised The worst option but the easiest. Replace the current draw slides with locking slides and use the aluminum Rega frame idea. Not as rigid but better ergonomics as i wont have to screw wingnuts in and check its level first. Cheers.