Rec. 709

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About Rec. 709

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    SA
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    Australia
  • First Name
    Tony

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  1. Some shots taken of an Epson 9200 which I calibrated for a client yesterday... apologies the middle shot is a little out of focus, it's a little hard to capture these some times. :-)
  2. Single chip DLP Domino D60, the customer still loves it and has no plans to move on as yet. I can't recall how many hours were on the lamp, but it had clocked up a few. Do you still have the CRT?
  3. I would have a serious look at a new display pro colorimeter. I have had one in my kit for a while now and hasn't drifted that much and what little drift there is is far less than other colorimeters I have used. I suspect this is largely due to its sealed design. If you want to take things a step further, you could always add a new i1pro 2 spectro down the track to profile against.
  4. Some shots of an older Sim 2 projector, which I re-calibrated for a client. In case you're wondering, the grass in the third shot is a little too 'vibrant', but this is the source material
  5. They used a combination of the plasma and and a mac for grading. I used to use 70% grey with a bias light when I was running with a projector. Sorry to hear about your meter. My i1 Display Pro is a few years old now (I profile it to a spectro to maintain accuracy) and it has aged particularly well. I used to keep it in Vanguard case to protect it from humidity, but don't tend to these days.
  6. Been working out at the SA Film Corporation this week. The picture below is taken from a 55" Panasonic ST60 and the film is "52 Tuesdays" with the colour grading etc. performed by Closer Productions Studios.
  7. You were one of the lucky ones if yours was reasonably accurate.[emoji41] I love the display pro, it's fast even with measurement smoothing enabled. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  8. Hehe....discovered these during a clean out of my desk- my early colorimeter's that I learnt with. The C5 (round one) was my first *good colorimeter. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  9. Unit has been sold. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  10. Sorry for the lack of updates, the past couple of weeks has been crazy busy! Here are some shots of an Epson 9300 projector I calibrated, please forgive the angles on which they're taken. 20170202_205345.jpg
  11. That's correct, however there are times that you simply need to adjust green. If you need to, use a light touch and be aware that it may alter brightness and gamma (so they may need to be addressed). I find Sony's usually come up well, it just takes a bit more work. The meter your using is good, the slowness your experiencing is quite normal at lower stim. Believe it or not, this meter is quite fast at lower levels compared to other meters! :-) If it becomes to much of a major concern, check measurement smoothing.
  12. Yes. :-) I have sent you a PM. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
  13. "But the green, as I've been lead to believe, is the carrier of luminece [or brightness]., once you set that [the first thing you do in calibration] you leave it alone. The grey scale is adjusted in the lower half 10% to 50%, by pretty much leaving the Green alone, and just tweaking the Red & Blue Bias till White Balance is achieved at that grey scale percentage. Likewise for the 50% to 100% Grey scale range, you only adjust the Red & Blue Gain controls, to get equilibrium. If too much Green, I've found it's usually because there is too little Red, as the eye is more sensitive to Red.....but that shot above, has a very vibrant green fence, which does skewer the scene to seem more Green than it actually is." Green carries most of the luminence information. You want to avoid using it unless you need to, as it can throw off brightness and gamma. Think of it more as a last resort and be aware how it may effect the rest of the calibration. Regardless of whether you've got too much green or too little red and green, the net effect is the same... a plus green error. Green is the most visible greyscale error. While there's a small amount of error tolerance for red and blue (+/-), there's no error tolerance for + green, as even in small amounts it's visible.
  14. "I decided to calibrate my Sony projector last night, all was going fine till I had a invasion of moths.....the little buggers decided to amass on the screen around the meter, I mean , what are the chances." hehe... that's a new one! "I ended up giving up, they were effecting the Grey scale reading when I was trying to fine tune it.......I got from 50% to 100% looking close to spot on, and considering I have sod all Gamma adjustment on it [I disengaged all Gamma presets], it's pretty level for the most part at around 2.2 -2.3, it's the lower end of the Grey scale still needing some fixing, at 10% to 30% the Blue & Green are a bit high, [why Bias jumps with such small changes compared to Gain always throws me] I'll have to have another [hopefully Moth free] calibration session tonight...the little shits." Adjusting the lower end is a bit more trickier as the controls are much more coarse than the RGB gains. Just make sure your meter is up to the task of measuring in the 10-30% range (I use both a spectro and colorimeter for this reason). "Here's a question for you REC 709....which new TV's have 10 point gamma correction available ?, also which set's have the ability to correct the secondaries [they are Yellow / Cyan / Magenta if you are reading this and wondering what I'm talking about - usually tweaked with the Tint control if nothing else available]" 10 point greyscale/gamma: Panasonic & Samsung 20 point greyscale/gamma: LG Six Point CMS: LG, Panasonic, Samsung & Sony (depending on the model)
  15. If you're seeing a green tinge, it's either introduced by my camera, or the monitor it's being viewed on (or both). Unfortunately, that's always a potential downside of posting photos. I always struggle to find photos that do the calibration justice, as they never look as good as the real thing. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk