• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About L J T

  • Rank
    Name Withheld
  • Birthday 07/24/1982


  • Location
  • Country
  • First Name

Recent Profile Visitors

9,419 profile views

Display Name History

  1. Hi Spark, thanks for your reply. I was listening to music and pressed the input selector button and found it stopped locking onto digital signals. I always run my gear through power conditioners and practice good connection and disconnection of components ensuring all power is turned off. I just heard back from the repairer and was notified that the AES, Coaxial and Optical inputs stopped working because of a short inside the IC that operates all these inputs. Of course it is the first M51 that the repairer has seen to exhibit this fault. A replacement IC has been sourced and should be installed by 1 week. If the replacement IC fails to work, I am left with a USB DAC with volume control. Not all doom and gloom I guess. It will be moved to my PC setup and I will be on the hunt for a multiple input DAC with electronic volume and preamp capabilities.
  2. My NAD M51 decided to stop clocking onto every signal except the USB input last week [emoji24] I swapped digital cables, sources, power points, reinstalled firmware from 1.39 to 1.50 with no success. It has been sent off to a preferred service agent and I am music-less until it's return. By looking at the modifications posted above, there doesn't seem to be much user serviceable parts?
  3. Beats Headphones - I cannot believe how many people rate these headphones as being a high end headphone. They are terrible.
  4. We went to Australia Zoo (2 years ago) and I have only just had a chance to go through some of the photos
  5. This guy or gal was in my garden and it was a perfect opportunity to try out my new macro lens. I found it challenging to keep focus with such a narrow depth of field while hand holding.
  6. I have purchased the HD650 cable for my HD600's. The cable does seem thicker and better built. One thing to note is the 650 cable comes with the 6mm connector as standard, and the plugs that go into the headphones are black. The standard 600 cables are red and black at the connectors and are terminated with a 3.5mm plug.
  7. I sold my Rega Apollo a few months back and have missed it dearly since. Pity the guy who bought it advertised it on Gumtree for a fair bit more than I sold it for and made a quick couple of hundred bucks. Oh well.
  8. Thanks. Yes I agree - the satisfaction of making a project and seeing it come together is a great feeling. Thanks. Almost finished now. I applied 4 coats of roller grade Duratex black paint during the week and wired up all the Neutrik Speakons. I am really happy with the texture achieved with just the small roller. It is the third project I have used Duratex and highly recommend it as a finish for MDF enclosures. It worked great on pywood too, but I found it depended on the quality of the ply. Anyway pics of progress The Dayton DT250 Compression Driver mated to the 290mm Horn Flare attached with hex head fasteners. The heavy round overs came out really well with the Duratex. The terrible lighting makes the finish look a lot more aggressive than in real life. Celestion TF1020 Mid/Bass driver housed in separate enclosure also secured with hex head fasteners. Driver spacing was 5mm Now I need to stop listening and carry on with the feet
  9. I managed to get a fair bit of work done over the past few weeks. I was so caught up in the project I forgot to take progress pics of how I braced the bottom section and added 90mm x 45 mm pine bracing that has MDF panels to fit the gaps. I decided against using sand inside the cabinets as I was able to fill it almost completely with material. Oh well. I remembered to take pics of the round over I used on all the edges and the frame for the compression driver horn. I used a 45 degree chamfer bit first to remove some material before doing 2 passes with the router at different depths to get the desired cut size. Roundover bit used Sanded up and ready to paint I am glad I used one piece for the front panel as it will give a cleaner surface that needs less preparation when painting and finishing. What would I have done differently? (1) Cut the compression driver hole and possibly the speaker holes last. It was difficult holding a 1/2 router and trying to balance it over the compression driver frame, I ended up making a false base for the router and it was still challenging. (2) Kerfed the MDF side panels so they ran the full length of the enclosure from the mid enclosure, all the way to the floor - it would have given me a rounder finish with no seams on the sides that needed filling. (next project ) This weekend I will work on external feet that will be like outriggers but will use rubber feet.
  10. Nice work Dave - My cat always inspects all my work also Did some more work on the enclosure today. I cut the front baffle down to incorporate a taper that leads to the bottom of the enclosure. The bottom chamber will be heavily braced and sand filled. Here's how I attached the side bottom panels and the bottom panels - you guessed it - more biscuits Dry fit now and ready for gluing tonight. The bottom brace in the bass enclosure is still loose as this will add an extra glue point to attach the vent when the rear panel is attached. It's another way of stiffening the enclosure, but it appears skewed in the picture because it is loose.
  11. Over-rated - KRK Studio Monitors. Sound like dogs breakfast.
  12. Thanks. The glue looks excellent. Yes I agree about the plywood being strong. It's my material of choice for larger bass cabs. It seems to dull my router bits quicker than MDF when machining though A question about the construction - did you lay the two side panels on top of each other so the screw holes line up on both sides? I have one of Bill's plans and have been putting off building it for the past 3 years...
  13. What type of glue are you using? The plywood looks a very high grade
  14. Glued up the port last night and finished the rear baffle today with the rectangular port. I used a flush trim bit to make the opening exactly the same size as the port. Then I used a large roundover bit to make the flare The roundover bit is large. Here's a comparison to a standard roundover bit I normally use. It requires a 1/2 inch router also. The important thing to be mindful of is speed and feed rate. Stability and control is the key with these large bits. A slight sand inside the port and it's ready to go