Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Al.M

  • Rank

Profile Fields

  • Location
  • Country
  1. The case for DIY.

    The main country contributors on DIYaudio.com are usually from Europe (Germany, Scandinavia, Italy, Poland and Czech), N America and reasonable amount from Aust, a few from India and some other places and it's good to see a wider range of views with a much greater reach and captive audience. SNA and DIYaudio.com are very different audiences obviously, except that the DIY section of SNA are of similar people.
  2. The case for DIY.

    http://www.diyaudio.com is pretty much the place for most DIY audio and very international too which I spend an equal amount of time browsing. DIY helps to greatly demystify much of the audio marketing hype and understand more about the true costs and parts that go into making things and makes one less vulnerable. DIY is not for the majority of people for a number of reasons such as effort, skills and knowledge, resale etc. Depending on how you go about and where you get the DIY design from it can be possible to build your own "equivalent" speaker for less than 10% the rrp of the commercial price, at least in appearance and parts terms depending on how pricey and complex the commercial equivalent is.
  3. Aurum Cantus F620 speakers

    I havnt heard either of the speakers. If it's the same experience I often found when going from a nice vintage conventional cone and box speaker to a modern one the transparency seemed to get better, which is probably a reflection of modern day speaker design and voicing advantages in generally, but not always. I've heard that series of B&W tweeter which seemed to be smooth sounding but not overly detailed and transparent. The AC with its ribbon tweeter should be very detailed and transparent sounding as ribbons can be and matched well with the midrange driver would be very good. It could also be down to the different voicing balance of the two speakers, generally when there is more bass the detail may be less prominent or noticed. I like the look of the B&W DM16, chunky sealed cabinet, 3 way design. Perhaps replacing the tweeter crossover caps with ultra high quality ones might improve detail and transparency a little more. The woven Kevlar midrange looks capable and appears similar to the 801 series driver unit of that same vintage. The 801f midrange is very good but let down by the tweeter.
  4. Yamaha NS-1000m VS NS-1000

    Any good sweet tube amp should do. People are only mentioning KT 88 or 120 because that's what they had and it worked well, not because they tried all types and found one of them best suited. A sufficiently powered 300B amp would be sublime. What power wattage 300Bs are people using, I thought they generally come in 9 & 15W, which I would think is a little underpowered but I have never tried?
  5. Do Rooms Break in?

    Moisture content in the room materials and surfaces will only change very slowly once it has reached a certain level so from within the first build time it will soak up and stay that way except for extreme summer and winter wet and dry periods but it may take several months for the changes to occur. There is no other physical breakin process going on in the room surfaces that you would find any science to back it up, similar to say speaker woofer surrounds becoming more compliant. If the house is made of light materials like gyprock walls and floor boards the floor may start to experience more flex from foot traffic and that do something but still very unlikely. Other than the mind getting used to it and under a cloud of meandering audio notions nothing else is happening.
  6. Do Rooms Break in?

    If anything, temperature, moisture content and humidity would have be the most impact on possible changes in sound both in terms of the atmospheric pressure and humidity of air in the room and absorption into the new build material surfaces like wall plaster, ceiling gyprock, coverings and funiture. I don't know if the human ear and auditory brain receptors would be able to detect differences but when environmental outdoor noise measurements are taken in a very scientific manner by experts temperature, wind and humidity is taken into consideration. For example, more humidity forms a denser atmosphere and sound pressure waves travel faster and also less sound energy is absorbed according to online references http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-airpressure.htm https://www.sweetwater.com/insync/effects-of-temperature-humidity-live-sound/ Moisture absorbed into room surfaces and materials may also slightly change the vibration properties and possibly affect secondary generation of sound from those materials. You may be surprised how much moisture is absorbed by a brick walls. You would need to track all of this over summer and winter conditions as temperature, air pressure and humidity will change.
  7. @Eskay I'm also sorry to read of your hearing issues. You probably already looked into it or advised by the audiologist if there is any hearing aid compensation or other solutions. If not perhaps exhaust these options before giving hifi up as I read online others in similar situation are trying to find solutions. In regards to the Naim amp sound I've owned the older vintage NAC 42 preamps on NAP 140, 250 and 135 monoblocks and thought they were as good as many other high quality solid state amps. Sure they have their own type of sound but so do others. If anything they tend to be priced higher than equivalent products for the cool factor so this may reflect in the used pricing so I would say anything from 40-50%, which is about the same as many other brands with cool factor pricing such as Krell, Passlabs etc that can often sell used around 30-40% rrp as the new pricing is just so high to start with in the beginning.
  8. Some info please

    What price range are you considering and any preferences like standmount, floorstanders, 2 or 3 way driver design, used or new etc?
  9. Peerless speaker kits Ebay

    Thanks for the opinion, yes most of them are sold as singles. The big MTM tower with the HDS dome tweeter and twin 6.5 inch nomex woofers in large volume cabinets look really good. You wouldn't get that level of driver quality in many sub $3K speakers or more.
  10. Has any one tried these Peerless kits on eBay. On paper they look good using the Peerless or Scanspeak HDS tweeter same or similar to those in the Lenehan speakers and nomex cone woofers. https://www.ebay.com.au/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1311.R5.TR7.TRC1.A0.H0.Xpeerless+.TRS0&_nkw=peerless+speaker&_sacat=0
  11. For this price category in terms of pedigree, specs/construction quality and resale I would rate in order of B&W 683, Kef Q900 and lastly Wharfdale 10.7. The B&W driver technology used borrows from its lineage of famous upper end examples of the 800 series speakers such as the large diameter Kevlar edgeless midrange unit that could potentially yield some very detailed and impressively large voicing. Though some might regard this as voodoo logic, I tend to be impressed by the weight of the speaker at 27kg surviving the knuckle wrap test where I have no words to answer other than gut feel and that it might be a little more burglar proof. On the slight down side a stated low frequency response of 52 hertz vs the Kef at 32hz seems to indicate it does not have as low sounding bass note. B&W products are more well known and regarded and resale value is high. The Kef looks impressive and the current sale price is good. Kef is also using its famous heritage dual concentric (tweeter slotted into the centre of the midrange driver cone unit) which can produce some coherent and point source imaging vs the conventional driver arrangement. At 22kg it passes the voodoo logic and might still deter burglars. From my memory of sound reviews they appear to be inconsistent saying it has a somewhat uneven sound and the unique driver design isn't fully realised in the end. Kef is also well known and resale is good. The Wharfies look nice with its curved cabinet construction. The frequency specs are hard to make out and might be deceiving the true results. The use of dome midrange is different to the others and if designed properly could yield a wider midrange sweetspot than the others if sitting at wider angles to the speaker. This may be important if you want others sitting in front to enjoy the midrange sweetspot. In listening tests perhaps see if that is correct. Online searches of the speaker weight appear to be missing so are they hiding that it is a very lightly constructed product, if that means anything at all, certainly my voodoo logic is not impressed with that. Wharfies generally have less higher mid end reputation, generally cheaper constructed and therefore less potential future resale.
  12. Yamaha NS-1000m VS NS-1000

    When you read between the reviews online and for those of us who intimately know the NS1000 and spent years finding out how to get the most out of them, what you often read is that a detailed matchup such as a good 50W KT88 tube amp or Nelson Passlabs solid state type sounding amp with equal preamps (I use a 200W clone Goldmund Nemesis 29 SS amp to equal effect but prefer the tubes) or similar with lots of micro detail can really produce lots of micro detail that many other high end conventional cone speakers would struggle to compete with. As mentioned it is also true that many people with average systems and less attuned listening skills may not hear the difference. I sold my last pair of NS1000 to just such a person and he couldn't hear the difference between tube and SS amps and his music tastes were not matched to that speaker. Previous recent SNA posts on amp matches for the NS1000 are here and also see the NS5000 post: http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/124983-the-cult-of-the-yamaha-ns-1000-monitor-loudspeaker/ http://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/88649-best-amp-for-ns1000-in-1000-2000-budget-new-or-vintage/?tab=comments#comment-1437348 An average matched amp can still be very good but one won't fully realise the last 10% of detail that the NS1000 is capable of and puts it generally alone up there, and this is where many people give up on it and move to the next speaker. This is written in the context of what the NS1000 does best and is not terms of is it the best speaker in the world or does it do everything well, does it suit everyone in every room and every situation. For example, micro detail and realism in terms of guitar plucks, trumpets, flutes, precise hitting bongo drums, lip smacking female voices etc (Jazz, flamenco, country, acoustic rock music works well) Speaker positioning that works for me is to put them on 45-50cm stands to reduce floor bass that muddies the upper range, 80cm from rear wall, driver offset alignment the opposite to normal with tweeters/mids centred on the outside not inside as per Yamaha manual, nearfield sitting position and spaced 2.5-3m apart, ear level between tweeter and mids, hi level dialled at 11am, mid level at 9am position, angle speakers to fire tweeters just past your ears. I recently heard a nice pair of $40K Concensus Audio speakers in a different room below, which uses top end Accuton ceramic drivers and the NS1000 micro detail was as good.
  13. Yamaha NS-1000m VS NS-1000

    I agree, the M version sounds more detailed in the mids and sharper sound. Cabinet size and internal volume is a little bigger on the non M version and bass a little more and overall sound mellower. There is also a rumour that the earliest versions pre 1990 manufacture Ms sound better than the later post 1990 versions and after owning 4 pairs in the past and hearing several others I would agree with that. The NS1200 is incredibly well built with its Egyptian cloth mid and tweeter domes is unfortunately nowhere near as good (only 40-50 in Aust), very ordinary midrange and treble, while the X versions are about 10% better with slightly more sorted midrange, 30% more bass and extended. The standard 1000s are safest bett as used drivers can be found very easily whereas all other model parts are much rarer as there where nearly 250,000 NS1000s made and sold around the world.
  14. Not really, even by this graph at a typical listening level around 70-80dB the affect of the human A-weighted hearing response is about 40dB between frequencies and at 90-120dB around 10-20 difference, so still very significant at any level. 10dB different is about twice the perceived loudness so not flat at all.
  15. I had one of these with later model tweeter, very coherent fast paced sound. Who ever mistreated these should have their nipples pinched really hard. GLWS.