lusk

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About lusk

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  1. Looking good, nice drivers the SB acoustics, interested to know what change your planning on doing to the drivers to improve them? extra magnet? more weight?
  2. May as well show the whole movie with all these trailers.
  3. I've been through many different tweeters in diy builds but stopped at a set of RAAL's, l haven't heard the bigger model but assume it would be very nice.
  4. This DIY build is impressive, defiantly next level. Just looking at your side profile and wondering how you decided on position of each driver. I understand that you are planning to have adjustment to physically time align but shouldn't starting position have the drivers acoustic centres more on the same plane?
  5. Probably because your measuring more off axis, look at some manufacturer's tweeter measurements of 0 degrees, 15 degrees, 30 degrees. http://www.seas.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=366:e0006-06-t25cf001&catid=50&Itemid=360
  6. If your not a terrorist you've go nothing to fear. l've always figured if someone wrote the code then someone can hack it. As technology advances this spying and control on everybody will be inevitable.
  7. I would say engineers as in the trailer - there is nothing, no birds, no animals, no noise, nothing.
  8. Item: Esoteric C-03x pre amplifier with HT bypass Location: Melbourne, Doncaster East, Vic. Price: $5700 can post if required. Item condition: Excellent no marks/scratches. Reason for selling: Changed setup, don't require a pre-amp. Payment Method: Pickup - Cash, Paypal. Extra Info: Purchased new, owned for around 3 years. Have changed my setup to computer based with multi-DAC for active 3 way speaker system so can't use a pre-amplifier unfortunately. I would like to keep it for the future in case but its too much coin sitting in the cupboard unused. http://www.esoteric.jp/products/esoteric/c03x/indexe.html Analog audio inputs Connectors RCA x 3 pairs (RCA 2 can be used as an AV pre-input)XLR x 2pairs Input impedance LINE:10kΩ Input sensitvity At rated output : 510 mVAt 800 mV output : 200 mV Maximum input level 12 V Analog audio output Connectors RCA x 2 pairsXLR x 2 pairs Output impedance RCA 47ΩXLR 100Ω Total harmonic distortion 0.0006% (RCA)0.0004% (XLR) Frepuency response 1Hz - 200 kHz (-3 dB)3Hz - 50 kHz (-0.2 dB) Signal-to-noise ratio (S/N) 116 dB (2 V input, A-weight) Gain +12 dB Rated outpu 2 V Maximum output level 7.5 V (RCA output, 1kHz, 0.003%)15V (XLR output, 1kHz, 0.003%) General Power supply AC 230V 50HzAC 120V 60HzAC 220V 60Hz AC 230V 50Hz Power consumption 21 W External dimensios (W x H x D) (including protrusions) 445 x 131 x 378 mm Weight 22 kg (48 5/8 lb) Included accessories Power cord x 1 / Remote control (RC -1156) x 1Batteries for remote control (AA) x 1Owner's manual x 1 Pictures:
  9. Can use a 12v coil, 240Volt relay and use 12v trigger from pre amp to turn on/off. It is same as others have suggested except no need for 12v dc power supply for fans.
  10. Why don't you just get a 240 volt fan wire it to a power lead and turn it on/off when required. No need for power supplies etc. http://www.ebay.com.au/sch/SUNON-120mm-Computer-Case-Fan/131487/bn_1660525/i.html
  11. Hi Andy, They go down to 20Hz. DIY speakers sealed drivers in TMWW setup. Yes it is a general curve, i have run my speakers active and passive. Essentially my preferred target/house curve is mimicking the passive version of the speaker with room gain as this is what l prefer. I do have multiple target cures that l can switch between though.
  12. I have acourate convolver but haven't given acourate flow much of a try yet. What setting did you end up at? Just wondering how different to the recommend standard settings (-2/4).
  13. I would suggest you try both and see what you prefer. Create a flat frequency response at the listening position and then compare to a house curve at the listening position. With my active setup l prefer a house curve with bass increased about +6db from 100Hz and below and the top end sloping down from 1khZ to 20Khz -3db.
  14. Most manufacturers claim their speakers are flat (probably are when measure in anechoic chamber) put them in your room and bottom end will get boosted. With an active setup going for flat in room might be true to the music but l've found bass sounds anemic and the speakers are not engaging. (no kick drum!) I always shelve the bottom end up to 100hz and it sounds much better. Paul explains this very well. http://redspade-audio.blogspot.sg/2011/06/why-your-system-needs-target-curve.html
  15. Always wondered how does a dedicated circuit actually isolate your audio system from the other circuits in the house? Doesn't your house get fed with 1 phase off the power pole and it is simply split at your DB board? What stops noise from a fridge etc coming back to the db board and then going down another circuit? interested to know.