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zydeco

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About zydeco

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  1. Anthem AV Owners Thread

    Advice from Anthem was that "if using an external amp on the front channels it (MRX720) would have more power fo the center and surround channels". And highlighted benefits o AVM-60 were listed as "improved analog to digital circuitry, better headphone amp and XLR outs" Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  2. Anthem AV Owners Thread

    Agreed - I'll send a PM. Back on the topic of MRX720: If I'm not using all 7 powered channels (i.e., existing power amp for front left / right and not using rear speakers) then does this mean that there is more power for the remaining channels; i.e., centre + surrounds?
  3. Anthem AV Owners Thread

    Interesting. What is the reason optimising mains + subs for stereo but just subs for HT? I'm planning something similar with MRX720 but with x/o and some bass Mgmt in the AVR Stereo Media Streamer - AVR - >80Hz mains to powered speakers - bass to minidsp for subs AV sources - AVR - >80Hz mains to powered speakers - LFE + bass from all channels to minidsp - speaker level to surrounds
  4. Thanks for all the great input. My reading is that the consensus is something like 1) a centre speaker is a good idea and 2) try the surround speakers with a good option being to mount on the ceiling / joists. And I'm happy to cannibalise the desktop set-up for surrounds for a trial and, if that goes well, the full set-up. I can do this once I settle on a pre-pro or AVR (with current thinking being it'll be the latter to drive the other channels) Re: option of using Gale speakers as left / right and Gallo Strada Centre as a centre: I'd understood that the LCR speakers should be near identical? The idea of getting a third Gale 401 is never going to fly with the family so going for a centre would mean either 1) finding good centre channel that matches the Gales, 2) using Gallo's as the LCR or c) finding a whole new LCR set. [Option 2 makes a lot of sense re footprint in the shared room and the speakers are quite beguiling but lack a bit in the mid-bass which is one reason for the preference of the Gales for music.]
  5. See attached drawing of the room. The position of potential surround speakers are shown in red with no. whilst existing speakers and subs are in green. My take on drawing it all out, which involved measuring the room, is that a centre speaker might be a good idea given the off axis listeners (although the more discerning listener always is in the sweet spot). Locations 1 & 2 are quite close but might just be able to be made to work but locations 3 & 4 (for "rear" speakers don't have enough width). Also, as input, we're not prepared to turn the room into a dedicated home theatre inside a normal shared lounge / kitchen / living room. (All the subs are small and tucked away in discrete locations).
  6. I've always discounted the notion of surround speakers in open plan kitchen / living room on the basis that it's hard to make these fit in practise but your prompting has got me thinking re options. Adding a centre speaker has some issues. I'm using some Gale 401 speakers for front left / right and adding a third such speaker won't work due to both a lack of space. A horizontal centre might work but I don't know how to find a good match. I could, though, go back to the Gallo Strada 2 for front speakers the Gale speakers replaced and add a matching centre for not a lot and have a small format matching LCR set. The other consideration re centre is that we do tend to sit on axis, or better put, I do and the others don't care so seat to seat variation isn't important One option for surround speaker locations are either close to the lounge chair (~1.5m from listen position) at appropriate angle to be a "surround" speaker in a 5.1 set-up. The other option is for the speakers to be near the rear wall but, in this location, the set-up entails them being more or less in line with the front speakers; i.e., more of a "rear" speaker in 7.1 set-up. [No way that I'll get away with both sets so advice as to where to invest brownie points would be appreciated.] Height / ATMOS speakers are, paradoxically, quite simple to add as long as these match the white ceiling which I don't see as an issue. That said, I've got no idea as to decent options / budget or the relative importance vis-a-vie the other additional speakers. Regards amplification. I've got a stereo power amp for front / left right but I'd prefer to use an AVR to power the additional channels so as to minimise box count / rack space and avoid complication. Another medium term option is to add a multi-channel amp down the track but that will be down the track. Appreciate that all this has varied from the original intention of the thread but, with a large proportion of listening being to TV / Netflix / Movies, it's worth considering.
  7. Anthem AV Owners Thread

    No - I plan on using just one bass output from the 520/720/1120 but having this contain both the dedicated LFE channel as well as the low pass from the other speakers. This "LFE + Mains" would then be sent to my mini-DSP that manages fleet of small subwoofers (with the option to improve via MSO). All the time the main speakers will be high-passed. My reading of the manual indicates that this set-up is supported but I wanted to check. One advantage of this set-up, to me, is that it should work equally well in terms of bass management for stereo as well as A/V. That is, for stereo it'll just contain the low pass from the stereo speakers whereas for A/V I'll get the mix of LFE channel plus low-pass. So you've got a separate system for stereo? Or just have stereo using the same speakers etc. but with a separate set of electronics? If it's the latter, then it'd be good to know how it works.
  8. Anthem AV Owners Thread

    A couple of questions re MRX520/720/1120. 1) Is it possible to create a bass signal that merges LFE and 2) And are you using the multiple subs for stereo music? And, if so, then do you use the same ARC settings for stereo vs multi-channel? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  9. Thanks - that's one interesting option. Any idea if it down-mixes the LFE channel to the main speakers? The one downside (other than price) is that I really want to have the ability to manage bass well. Current thought - and I am a bit all over the place on this - is to use Pre-Pro or AVR to high-pass mains at 80Hz and then send LFE + <80Hz from mains to my mini-DSP which would be used to time align / manage the various subwoofers. All this would work the same for both stereo and A/V. Re; XMC-1: These units have always looked like a good answer given my focus but I'm wary given reports of issues with support etc. but that might have changed now that XMC-1 is more mature and a new distributer is on the scene. If not, then it's a toss up between a second hand 8801 or cheaper AVR with good pre-outs plus up to date HDMI / HDCP such as the Anthem MRX520/720 (which by all accounts are identical to the AVM-60 except for lack of toroidal power supply and balanced outputs). I'd pondered on such a solution but decided against it on the basis that I'd need to add a unit to strip optical out of the HDMI for Apple TV and, more importantly, it might see a situation in which the family have to deal with a situation in which TV video and audio are on sources (and I don't want any more of being the A/V support tech.)
  10. I've been thinking about this and do have an option of adding left / right surrounds but, due to room layout, these would be about 1.5m from the main listening position and a bit closer to adjacent seats. I guess that I could manage the gain and delays but wonder if it'll ever really work? The thing I've been considering is bass management. My initial thought was to use the AVR / Pre-pro for bass management for both stereo as well as multichannel sources. This more or less excludes the option of a AVR & integrated amp for stereo. One option might be to use one sub specifically for LFE and others as Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro
  11. Thanks, Paul. The measurements show the bass bins flat to 60Hz (or at least flat enough to allow very good post-DSP performance) but then a -20dB suck-out centred around 45Hz. The first length, width and axial models are at 35, 45 and 55Hz so it looks to me (using the REW room simulator) there is are boosts at 35 and 55Hz with suck out at 45Hz which is why the suck-out is so broad. The REW room simulator shows that if I high pass the bass bins at 80Hz and place a single subwoofer on the back wall then the entire <80Hz is cleaned up. My objective, in all this, is to improve the 30 to 80Hz performance.
  12. FS: ExaSound e18 Multi-Channel DAC Item: ExaSound e18 Multi-Channel DAC Location: Perth Item Condition: Excellent (9/10) – fully working with no noticeable blemishes to case. All original packaging available. Reason for Selling: No longer being used – simplifying system Price: $975 excluding shipping Payment Method: Cash, Bank Check, Electronic Funds Transfer Extra Info: One of the few consumer-audio multi-channel DAC. Suits someone looking to build either a multi-channel or active speaker set-up using a computer source. My set-up has involved Windows 10 source with JRiver Media Player used to create a 3-way digital cross-over (high / low / sub) for stereo speakers. All this is delivered via USB to the DAC with the line level signals sent to amplifiers. I’ve tended to use digital volume control but the e18 does have analogue volume control which has proven very useful as it allows one to mute the system thus avoiding potential start/shutdown problems. See http://www.exasound.com/Blog/tabid/74/articleType/ArticleView/articleId/54/exaSound-e18-High-End-8-Channel-USB-DAC-Review-by-Matt-Ashland-J-Rivers-CTO.aspx for more details.
  13. FS: Input Switch Item: Input switch with 4 inputs and 2 outputs. All RCA connections. 1U box. Location: Perth Item Condition: Good (8/10) Reason for Selling: No longer being used. Price: $75 excluding shipping Payment Method: Cash, Bank Check, Electronic Funds Transfer Extra Info: Custom made by Audio Synergy, Perth. Suits someone looking to increase no. of inputs on pre-amp and/or create a signal for a second zone; e.g., outdoors, other rooms.
  14. @A9X Home Theatre Geeks interview with Bob Carver
  15. I heard an interview with Bob Carver in which his argument is that valve distortion etc. is so low as to be irrelevant with the only relevant issue being the coupling between the amplifier and speaker. He then went on to say that a low damping factor / high amp output impedance was preferable and even quoted Dan D'Agonstino as saying that the perfect output impendance of an amp is 1 Ohm as this allows it to follow the impedance curve of the speaker. I'm a novice in these matters but the point re amp output impedance seemed a long way from the usual recommendation of high damping factor so as to control the speaker drivers?
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