andyr

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About andyr

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  • Birthday 04/30/1949

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  1. I'm wondering what suggests to you that they are "pretty good", Steve? Regards, Andy
  2. Clearly! But there will be a few here who will pooh-pooh your findings bcoz you didn't conduct a DBT! (But I believe you! ) Andy
  3. Interesting! So now that the P06 is fully shielded ... it sounds better than it used to? I've never had a non-shielded phono stage but maybe the 'open-ness' of the P06 - compared to your other phono stages - is due to the circuit? Andy
  4. That's an interesting thought - which you may be able to prove to yourself by putting 'tube dampers' (like Herbie makes) onto your LM tubes. Andy
  5. Lee - quite simple IMO. What they really mean ... which is completely understandable - if only they'd said that - is "the speakers / cart / cables delivered better resolution". It's just - like so many people today - they have an incomplete grasp of the English language. Andy
  6. Absolutely, Trevor! Unfortunately, in my room - as you know - I can't move the panels out any further ... otherwise, instead of 'nearfield' they would be super-sized headphones! What I think Rod is on about is that toob amps - which typically have higher levels of 2nd order HD, compared to a ss amp - often deliver quite a deep sound stage. Andy
  7. You've confused me, Felix. I believe you've always put the P06 forward as your best sounding phono stage: so was this when it was not inside a shielded case? and now that it is ... is it more open-sounding ... or not? Andy
  8. Mmmm, the power company supplying Richmond doesn't seem to have woken up to this! I have a mains-voltage digital meter that occasionally shows 239v - but never any lower. Most of the time, the voltage shows 241-243v. Andy
  9. As Trevor said - the shorter the cable ... the better the sound (due to minimum degradation by the cable). However, I would suggest that it would be better to twist the red & the green, and the white & the black wires together - rather than leave them apart as shown in your pic. Twisting the pairs together reduces the cable inductance - which is a good thing (even though the wires are only 300mm long). You may even get better separation from what you're going to do (putting monoblocs right behind the speakers) - as the pair of wires driving the tweeters are no longer running in close proximity for 4 meters, to the wires driving the woofers. Andy
  10. I would suggest that the charge for shipping is small ... compared to the price charged for the work itself? Andy
  11. That kind of a 'retip' is a complete 'ripoff'! If you've experienced such a job - perhaps you would be so kind as to name the outfit ... so others won't make the mistake of sending their precious carts to them. I've had carts re-tipped by Benz (at the factory), Expert Stylus and North West Analogue - and in every case, they just replaced the stylus. Andy
  12. Yes, you stick on Dynamat (or similar products) to damp the (thin) metal tops and bottoms of equipment cases. Andy
  13. Jeez, David - you want me to publish my IP so that any Russ, Jim or Johannes will be able to build their own ... instead of spending their money with me! Johannes - I call the phono stage which I build, the 'Muse' ... David has extrapolated the use of the name to include all the other things I do as well (AKSA 'Paris' head amp ... rebuilt Jim Hagerman's Bugle phono stage ... DC blocker ... an isolating transformer ... and a mains hash filter). Re. the cables - nothing OTT but they sound good because I use good components: I use solid-core wire, exclusively. Copper, so far - as I don't like silver-plated copper and have not tried solid silver wire yet. For speaker cables, I use teflon-insulated ("plenum rated") Cat5 cable. A great deal of work is involved in stripping the PVC jackets off - and then the ends of all the individually insulated 24g strands ... as many as you need to provide a suitably low-resistance pathway for the currents involved. (Obviously, more strands for the currents involved in bass drivers than for tweeters.) Then you need to twist together all the wires. Using the striped wire in each twisted pair to connect the black amp/speaker terminals and the full-colour wires for the red terminals, gives you a very low inductance speaker cable - which is what is needed. Then terminate with the 'springy' MC banana plugs shown in the attached pic ... or spades. For interconnects, I used Belden twinax - this is 2x solid-core copper wires inside a shield (one wire for signal 'hot' ... the other for signal ground). For RCA plugs, I typically use Vampire 557 ... or WBT for those who are prepared to pay for the best. Shield is only connected at one end - so it is grounded but doesn't form part of the signal chain. Regards, Andy
  14. Can I suggest you get cases from www.hifi2000.it - I've been using various of their cases for the last 5 years, for my Muse phono stage, AKSA 'Paris' head amp, DC blockers & Isotran units. They will do all the drilling for you on their CNC equipment - all you have to do is supply a '.dxf' file ... which can be output from Visio. They are generally quite prompt - usually completing my orders within 2 weeks of receiving them. So you can see how they come out, I've attached a pic of my MM / MC Muse. Regards, Andy