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Tube Phono Stage under $3000


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Hi Leo,

 

As you can see from that pic of the back of the Chinook - it says (in the bottom R corner) "Set gain internally 45dB or 60dB for MM or MC ".

 

That is how you adjust gain. All those dip-switches shown are for adjusting the 'R' loading and the 'C' loading which the cart sees, for whatever gain you have selected.  (And, while yes, this gives you quite a few options - 800 ohms is the highest loading (apart from 47K, I would assume) - so the Chinook wouldn't suit my Benz LP ... which I run at 2,200 ohms.)

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

Edited by andyr
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Hi Leo,

 

As you can see from that pic of the back of the Chinook - it says (in the bottom R corner) "Set gain internally 45dB or 60dB for MM or MC ".

 

That is how you adjust gain. All those dip-switches shown are for adjusting the 'R' loading and the 'C' loading which the cart sees, for whatever gain you have selected.  (And, while yes, this gives you quite a few options - 800 ohms is the highest loading (apart from 47K, I would assume) - so the Chinook wouldn't suit my Benz LP ... which I run at 2,200 ohms.)

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

I was referring to flexibility in "fine tuning" the loading. 

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as an aside the whole business of "loading" can be a bit of a red herring too...eg with my cart it makes 2/5ths of no difference I can tell with varying loading so just run as per the makers spec. similarly catching up with another forum member recently with another tube phono stage running a different cart but form the same makers and same style he also shared this experience. so can be much ado about nothing. something else I would suggest worth exploring ...you might find it of benefit ...you might not... :)

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as an aside the whole business of "loading" can be a bit of a red herring too...eg with my cart it makes 2/5ths of no difference I can tell with varying loading so just run as per the makers spec. similarly catching up with another forum member recently with another tube phono stage running a different cart but form the same makers and same style he also shared this experience. so can be much ado about nothing. something else I would suggest worth exploring ...you might find it of benefit ...you might not... :)

 

Interesting, Al - I'd like to know:

  • what your cart is, and
  • what your phono stage is.

I find loading makes a helluva difference to the sound of the cartridge.

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

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Interesting, Al - I'd like to know:

  • what your cart is, and
  • what your phono stage is.

I find loading makes a helluva difference to the sound of the cartridge.

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

 

ortofon jubilee...arc ph6 

 

other forum member runs cadenza black and vacuum tube audio ph16 :)

 

ps I should add arc actually gives you a little remote with the ph5-6 so can sit back in the listening position and vary away loading to hearts content :D 

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ortofon jubilee...arc ph6 

 

Aaah, OK, Al ... googling these, I find:

  • the 'Jubilee' is a LOMC with a mfrs recommended loading of ">10 ohms".
  • the ARC PH6 offers "configurable loading in steps of 100, 200, 500, 1000 and 47k ohms from either the front panel or handy remote control".

So I'm thinking the reason why you can't tell much difference between the offered loading options ... is because the first one that is available with the PH6 is already too high to be optimal for the Jubilee?

 

Have you ever heard it at, say, 10 ohms ... or 22 ohms ... or 33 ohms?  If you haven't, you can always try this out by:

  • selecting the 47K option,
  • using a 'Y' or 'T' connector in each input RCA, and
  • a 10 / 22 / 33 ohm load plug in the spare socket.

Regards,

 

Andy

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Aaah, OK, Al ... googling these, I find:

  • the 'Jubilee' is a LOMC with a mfrs recommended loading of ">10 ohms".
  • the ARC PH6 offers "configurable loading in steps of 100, 200, 500, 1000 and 47k ohms from either the front panel or handy remote control".

So I'm thinking the reason why you can't tell much difference between the offered loading options ... is because the first one that is available with the PH6 is already too high to be optimal for the Jubilee?

 

Have you ever heard it at, say, 10 ohms ... or 22 ohms ... or 33 ohms?  If you haven't, you can always try this out by:

  • selecting the 47K option,
  • using a 'Y' or 'T' connector in each input RCA, and
  • a 10 / 22 / 33 ohm load plug in the spare socket.

Regards,

 

Andy

 

Andy the dealer I bought my jubilee originally from was quite a fan and experimented with a lot of phono stages to suggest that 100 ohm is quite optimal, I did quite a bit of research to check myself and it is resounding consensus on good ness how many reports from people world wide web that 100 ohm is excellent just like this post here from our johna with respect to the jubilee from the jubilee thread here,

 

i also have one on my VPI HRX with 12" arm

has sounded great on almost every phono stage i have had on it

bat

esoteric

musical surroundings

bakoon

bel canto

rcm

audia flight

and all sounded best with 100ohm loading

 

 

a rega ios phono stage I had would let me try lower and quite frankly no difference I could discern there myself leaving with my the only conclusion that it seems fine at anywhere above 10 ohm as ortofon suggest and why 100 ohm to anywhere higher seems fine with 2/5ths of nothing gained running any different :)

 

in anycase am sure qwerter can explore this himself with whatever phono stage he gets to suit his cart as well. he might find the same or different ..for him to find out :)

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... with the only conclusion that it seems fine at anywhere above 10 ohm as ortofon suggest and why 100 ohm to anywhere higher seems fine with 2/5ths of nothing gained running any different :)

 

It would seem you're lucky with the Jubilee, Al.   :)  Any time you travel from the part of Oz you reside in, to Melbourne and have some spare time, you're welcome to come over and listen to my Benz LP at any loading within the range specified by the mfr (470 to 47K).  You'll notice a very big difference in sound across a portion of that range.  There's little difference between, say, 470 and 680 - or 33K and 47K - but there's a big difference between 470 and, say, 2K2.

 

The loading I like is 2K2 ... but I'm not certain it's actually the optimal load.

 

 

|Regards,

 

Andy

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@@andyr thanks for your kind offer andy, I am in melbourne, infact nearly caught you at the wyndham gtg...but you shot off so didn't get a chance to introduce myself, will do another time, I know you have mentioned being inbetween houses etc so lets leave till once settled in the new/renovated place  :)

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as an aside the whole business of "loading" can be a bit of a red herring too...eg with my cart it makes 2/5ths of no difference I can tell with varying loading so just run as per the makers spec. similarly catching up with another forum member recently with another tube phono stage running a different cart but form the same makers and same style he also shared this experience. so can be much ado about nothing. something else I would suggest worth exploring ...you might find it of benefit ...you might not... :)

With a MM cartr, you only need only concern yourself with pF loading. R loading can be left at 47k.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

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@@andyr thanks for your kind offer andy, I am in melbourne, infact nearly caught you at the wyndham gtg...but you shot off so didn't get a chance to introduce myself, will do another time, I know you have mentioned being inbetween houses etc so lets leave till once settled in the new/renovated place   :)

 

NP, Al.

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With a MM cartr, you only need only concern yourself with pF loading. R loading can be left at 47k.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

 

Sure, 47K is the standard for MM - and just about all MMs are quite happy with this loading.  However, that doesn't mean that it's the optimum loading for a particular MM cartridge - eg. wood-bodied Grados sound better at 35-37K.

 

 

Regards,

 

Andy

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Aah, interesting - so you paralleled the standard 47K with 220K?

 

How did your phono stage allow you to do this?

 

 

Andy

No, I used a 39k resistors

 

How did it let me do it? it didn't have a say in it :)

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Is anyone using the Eastern Minmax tube Phonostage?

Looks incredible value.

 

Cheers, Owen

Dark Lantern blog - http://darklanternforowen.wordpress.com/

 

The EE Minimax phono was the first modest priced phono stage which really got me excited. Here are its pluses:

  • sounds REALLY like music, not like musical reproduction
  • emotionally very involving
  • pretty good detail and ambience
  • point-to-point wiring
  • good standard tubes
  • exceptionally good permalloy MC transformers

Here are the minuses:

  • noise is a little too high - should be maybe 3dB quieter to be competitive with better quality MC phono stages
  • grounding is incorrect, resulting in transient hum problems, which range on different units from no problem at all to infuriating on others. On mine, I was able to eliminate the grounding hum by momentarily shorting the left channel output. bizarre.

Changing the tubes makes a big difference to performance but doesn't change the minuses above.

 

I eventually sat with Joe Rasmussen while he

  • deciphered the circuit,
  • fixed the hum problem permanently,
  • split the RIAA circuitry between input and output stages, to remove a capacitor from the signal path and make the output stage capacitor-free,
  • raised the first stage signal sufficiently to replace the critical first stage 12AX7 by a 12AT7
  • added Jantzen Superior-Z bypass caps into the signal path to bypass some very ordinary caps
  • a few minor tweaks

The result is an absolutely stunning phono stage, with a S/N at least 10dB better than before - 10dB !!!, fantastic ambience and detail. It could be better, of course, but at that price? Not a chance! 

Edited by Warren M.
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