fastfwd Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Hi all, Semi new to this forum, come in here from time to time for advise and research. I thought i would put up my theatre room build progress and you can critique, assist, give me idea's and help me along the way. The room isn't a completely square room, access to the room comes from an angled corner in one of the main hallways in my house. I believe it was built in mind with the house to have it as a Larger lounged TV room but not a theatre. This is where i have come in to rebuild and make this idea possible. STEP First we started off with a step, max standardized Australian step height 190mm. Built the platform with 4x2 wood and finished the top off with 21mm thick ply. Using left overs of my bamboo hard wood flooring throughout the house we incorporated it on the face of the step. This is yet to be completed. FALSE WALL due to the dimensions of the room and the way it was shaped we had to build a false wall over the existing window. This false wall has a few things kept in mind, blocking the window, sound dednening that wall which is closest to the neighbors, creating inserts for the speakers, amp and other equipment and hide all wiring behind this area and still have access to it with the outside window if i ever needed it. BULKHEAD/CEILING The bulkhead and ceiling was created for a few reasons, mainly it was for the look but other reasons were to hide aircon ducting and cabling through it. This was done with 4x2 wood. We created the design so the bulkhead has a lip which i can run the stripped lighting around to have the glow effect on the ceiling. LIGHTING - TESTINGI purchased 60LED/m 5050 RGB LED strip lighting with remote. I will be placing this lighting on the lip of the bulkhead to give the glow lighting effect. Also placing it behind the speaker, amp inserts on the false wall. Also under the lip of the step. It will all be controlled by my Logitec remote. It will most probably be a white, or offwhite glow but i am able to have any colour in the RBG range. Also have it fade in and out when i turn movies on and off. GYPROCK and WOOD BEHIND SPEAKER INSERTS We started to Gyprock all of the bulk head, i am unable finish the gyprock just yet as i am waiting on a mate to complete some wall chasing so i can run some wires and waiting on some downlights to come in so i can install them around the bulkhead. This will be much easier if i have access to it. SPEAKERS and AMP I have currently put my speakers and amp on Laybuy and slowely paying them off as i complete the project.I have gone with a full Bowers and Wilkins 600 Series setup. 683 s2 Fronts, 685 rears, HTM61 Centre and ASW610 sub. Along with a Arcam AVR380 Receiver. Here are some pictures of these: 30AMP LED 12VOLT DRIVER You can buy these custom on ebay. I had to get a 30amp one due to me using 25m of LED stripping around the room. \ SPEAKER WIRE 30m of 8AWG direct from U.S.A WALL CHASINGDid some wall chasing for the new light switch and rear speakers. DOWNLIGHTING 22 x 3w warm starlights all the way across the room, had to hard wire 4 drivers for them. I put 1 downlight in each speaker well also. VIDEO CABLING 10M length of each = HDMI 2.0, Component, DVI-D, DSUB (VGA) - I really only need the HDMI but it only cost me an extra $40-50 for the other cables so might as well do it now if i ever need it in the future. Doubtful through AIRCON VENT Had to do a bit of custom work to get this to work properly. The vent was to deep for the bulkhead so i had to cut it up. INSULATION + SOUND DEADENING This stuff was only $60 a bag a bunnings, i thought it would be good to jam up in the bulkhead and behind the false wall. I didnt think it would make much difference to the sound only being in the bulk head but it did a lot. My room is double brick all 4 walls and slab cement ceiling. FILLING SOME GAPS I removed the window sill so i had to fill the cavity with some space saver. FINISHING THE BULKHEAD PLASTERBOARD REMOTE Ozbargins.com let me know this was going for sale for $84 with a promotion code last friday at dick smith with free delivery....Couldnt find it anywhere else for less than $150. SPEAKER PLAN: 42 hours spent over 18-20th Oct and this is the progress.. SOUNDCHECK 13mm Soundchek all of the walls. I sanded back 200x200mm portions of the wall every 460mm vertical and horizontal to remove the paint and use gyprock plasterboard adhesive to glue the soundchek to the the walls. SPEAKER MOUNTING Bought some 15kg rated speaker mounts of ebay and funnily enough the mounting points are identical to the original wall mounting points on the B&W 685's. This saved me a bunch of time not needed to custom mount them to the rear of the speaker. ] ALL GYPROCK COMPLETE DOOR INSTALLATIONS Purchased some solid core 230x72x35 doors from ebay. They didnt have any pretty designed solid core doors. Only these but rather function over looks. Had to chisel out the doors ends for the hinges and cut the handle wholes and the latches. Edited October 21, 2014 by fastfwd 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luc Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 My first query would be; is there going to be any acoustic insulation in the walls? The projects looking good though, WD on it so far. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 My first query would be; is there going to be any acoustic insulation in the walls? The projects looking good though, WD on it so far. The false wall is going to be full of insulation so will the bulk head. 2 of the other walls are double brick and one of them is single brick. Other than the false wall and the bulk head there will be no acoustic insulation in the walls. I was going to complete acoustics toward the end of the build buy designing some wall art with acoustic foam to place on the wall. I wanted to see how the room holds up first and then progress from there. any thoughts on what i can do to help acoustics now whilst the building stage is still in effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luc Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Sealing up your door as best you can will help isolate the sound from the rest of the house. Are you able to get into the roof to insulate there as well? Hope you've had a real good look through the Showcase thread as there are a heap of builds there and I picked up a heap of tips and ideas when I did my room. Powerpoints+cabling+cable management too are important(I'm guessing you know this already but just saying). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Sealing up your door as best you can will help isolate the sound from the rest of the house. Are you able to get into the roof to insulate there as well? Hope you've had a real good look through the Showcase thread as there are a heap of builds there and I picked up a heap of tips and ideas when I did my room. Powerpoints+cabling+cable management too are important(I'm guessing you know this already but just saying). The ceiling is the concrete slab for the second story so i have no option of doing anything. At least its a slab which helps with a bit of isolation. I have also removed the crappy hollow internal doors and replacing them with thick full external doors. Will also be using rubber tape on the door seals to give it a better seal from the sound. Power points shouldnt be an issue, cable management i might look into though. I was going to have mine free to roam through the bulkhead and the false wall but if their is a better solution i might do it. Edited July 28, 2014 by fastfwd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkeyboi Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Nice work Reece. Plenty of pics - just the way we like to see the work progress. Kinda makes me feel guilty I haven't got off my fat arse and finished my own sound room. Cheers, Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Nice work Reece. Plenty of pics - just the way we like to see the work progress. Kinda makes me feel guilty I haven't got off my fat arse and finished my own sound room. Cheers, Alan Thanks Alan Goal is to have it 100% complete before xmas. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
progladyte Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Looking nice! You'll love the B&W's - they are a great speaker and although I haven't heard the Arcam, I believe it will be a great match. Enjoy your journey! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Ballsy project fastfwd. Looks good. Would 13mm Gyprok soundchek to walls help ? Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Looking nice! You'll love the B&W's - they are a great speaker and although I haven't heard the Arcam, I believe it will be a great match. Enjoy your journey! I fell in love with the bowers and wilkins brand when i first listened to my father in laws 704's. he also was running them on an older series AVR350 arcam amp. He had previously done all of the research on that setup and after completeing my own i found that the bowers and wilkins matched with Arcam amps are a match made in heaven. I went to Westcoast hifi here in perth and previewed the setup im buying and i almost lost my sh1t it sounded that good. Cheers Ballsy project fastfwd. Looks good. Would 13mm Gyprok soundchek to walls help ? Cheers Thanks mate, Possibly, i haven't heard much in the way of adding gyprock to the already solid wall for acoustics. Is this something you have done? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Yes I have done so but not for a dedicated theatre/music room. I have done it for a motel I built to minimise noise between rooms. My residence is part of this. I might add the walls also have HD glass fibre insulation to boot. Not my principal residence more a means to an end till we move back to our home. My system here is an old technics SL23 TT, Yamaha DSP theatre amp and some old Osborn F2 speakers with focal drivers (now deleted from range). Modest setup considering most systems on SNA. The sound from playing my vinyl is fantastic warm with great soundstage etc etc and given my humble setup I consider the room environment a major factor to my listening pleasure. I am not a techo as such but I know what I like. I figure if you are going to all this trouble and expense for the little extra cost in materials the benefit of good wall treatment will be rewarding after all you only want to do it once. It's the whole package thing I guess. I will be watching with keen interest your progress and ultimately the pleasure you get from your hard efforts. Good luck with your build. Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 28, 2014 Share Posted July 28, 2014 Just had a thought. Walk into a room built with solid masonry walls and clap your hands. Note the reverb. Do it in a plasterboard room and there should be a noticeable difference. A further thought, when they built our new picture theatre the joining walls to other adjoining theatres had something like 4 or 5 layers of soundchek on either side then heavy velvet curtains draped. Spent millions on the theatre and now we have a modern theatre with good acoustics and a pleasure to visit unlike the previous theatre constructed from concrete block work. Everyone complained of the poor acoustics you couldn't understand the dialogue. Found myself lip reading at times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 28, 2014 Author Share Posted July 28, 2014 Just had a thought. Walk into a room built with solid masonry walls and clap your hands. Note the reverb. Do it in a plasterboard room and there should be a noticeable difference. A further thought, when they built our new picture theatre the joining walls to other adjoining theatres had something like 4 or 5 layers of soundchek on either side then heavy velvet curtains draped. Spent millions on the theatre and now we have a modern theatre with good acoustics and a pleasure to visit unlike the previous theatre constructed from concrete block work. Everyone complained of the poor acoustics you couldn't understand the dialogue. Found myself lip reading at times. Thanks Hawkeye, So this is intriguing me, got a few question about application though. So if you look at the pictures of my room above. Do i slap the gyprock soundchek directly onto the masonry wall? How do i attach this to the wall? Glue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops110 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I dry lined all the walls in my living room to cover up the hideous bricks. Pretty easy job , I did find it deadens the room down a little. I used gyprock dry wall adhesive, it comes in a bag that you mix with water. You will then have to flush it all up. Will you do the flushing yourself? Cheers Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 I saw the stud wall on one side sounds like you don't intend framing over all walls. Fixing soundchek direct to the brick wall is certainly better than no treatment. Ideally batten it to 45-50mm and fit something like polymax 50mm insulation then your soundchek. If you decide to fit soundchek direct to wall you must sand paint at glue points back to natural brick I have used cornice cement or you can use the proprietary brand masonry adhesive. Ideally your ceiling should be lined as well I would ramset battens, insulate then line (it's all about cost) for the best result. Cheers Hawkeye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Crap i dunno what to do...It seems like a lot of work at my point in the build.I defiantly don't want to bring the wall out 50mm. If anything putting the soundchek directly to the wall will be the most ideal for me. So with my current walls, sand them down to remove the paint, then drywall adhesive on the wall and then soundchek onto that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Also just want to know, its not the hugest cost if i put the soundcheck directly on my wall, it will just be more time working on it which i don't mind. How much improvement in sound do you think i will get percentage wise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Sorry again i want to know anyone got any detailed info on how the soundchek will help? Im just curious, does it reduce sound bouncing around the room, absorbs it like sound foam will? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 Found these links: http://www.gyprock.com.au/Documents/GYPROCK-503-Sound_Containment.pdf http://www.gyprock.com.au/Pages/solutions/homes/noise.aspx All solutions say 10mm soundchek, insulation between and then another 10mm soundchek but thats alot of space loss for my current solution. Already lost 270mm on one side from the fault wall.Unsure about how much sound reduction/isolation the 13mm soundchek directly glued to my walls will do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) SPEAKER WIRING 10AWG Generic brand from USA. 2 x 50 Feet lengths Edited July 29, 2014 by fastfwd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 (edited) Your thoughts on this stuff???? http://www.greengluecompany.com/?gclid=CPzSn4yY8J0CFc0vpAodcj_9NQ Edited July 29, 2014 by fastfwd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 If you phone Gyprok on 1300 306 556 they can give you the best method of fixing their product but you definitely must remove any paint say for example a spot the size of your electric sander on a grid spacing of 450mm x 450mm for the 10mm or 600mm x 600mm grid spacing for the 13mm soundchek no need to sand the whole wall. Not sure if Gyprok will be able to give you an exact figure for sound damping though however it will be better than a brick wall. Cheers Hawkeye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops110 Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Personally I think the cost and time would out weigh the benefits. I would use cornice cement or drywall adhesive. Easiest way would be to use a tomahawk, small axe and chip off the white set at 450mm centers to get back to render. Then place the adhesive onto the chipped off areas and place your sheets on top. Cheers Dave. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 29, 2014 Share Posted July 29, 2014 Had no experience with this product. From what I have just read the greenglue is for use between two sheets of drywall you will still need to bond your base sheet to a clean surface. Two sheets are going to be better than one and from their description the greenglue provides a gap with a compromise between high and low frequency absorption. Sorry about your dilemma I guess the right answer is the one you choose having looked at the options and selecting the one giving an acceptable outcome for the price you wish to pay. Cheers Hawkeye Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastfwd Posted July 29, 2014 Author Share Posted July 29, 2014 anyone know where i can find those nice little down lights...think they like single bulk LED? i want to put roughly 20 around the bulkhead.been a mission to find them..i know i seen them in plenty homes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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