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Another Troels Gravesen's DTQWT Project Build


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#91 BioBrian

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Posted 24 December 2012 - 11:54 PM

Very relieved that you got them back Sierra!

I had a similar problem: all were a pretty snug fit before painting, and I was really pleased, but after...

I worry about the dremel idea. I struggled to find something of almost the same diameter, so I could hold sandpaper around and not make uneven gouges. Maybe 120 to 150 grit would be appropriate. Have you noticed that almost all round objects like jars and cans have either a round edge or a lip? Eventually found a plumbing fitting about the size of sewer pipe, with a nice sharp edge, and spent a a lot of care placing it on the bed of the routed rebate to keep the vertical wall square. So lots of holding sandpaper around the 'pipe', working side to side. I had to cut off the edge of the paper a dozen or so times, but didn't actually get back to bare wood before they fitted: it was just the paint. Not as painful as I'd thought, and so nice to have it snug, unlike some in the past. It might not be as bad as you think!

Your colours look even more stunning now, and the plinths balance it well. Hope you get some great enjoyment with the final phase.

cangaceiro99: thanks for your complement. I routed all panel edges to avoid the B Birch splintering problem, except one little shortcut with a circular saw on the rear baffle tops: damn! Couldn't afford to lose any more length, so it stays imperfect... Also I used epoxy glue throughout, which makes all faults darker, but at least it feels like all gaps are filled.

#92 Sierra

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Posted 25 December 2012 - 07:37 AM

Hey B-Brian ...
Well I've learned one thing ... if there is ever a next time of building speakers ... driver holes and rebates will have clearance around them.

I like your suggestion of a large diameter object to wrap the sand paper around ... I have a piece of spouting down pipe that I can use.
That in combination with the dremmel should to the job ... but it will be slow and painstaking ... I cant afford to rush this and make a mistake ...

Yes the rich color of the Jarrah has really come out with the laquering :)


So ... don't keep us in suspense ... how do yours sound?

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#93 BioBrian

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 12:53 PM

Yes, I've noticed others going a bit quiet when they've finished. It's a very different world, stepping out of the obsession and exhaustion of the build, to quiet sitting, going through all the 'old fave' test CDs.

Initially, the sound was pretty hard and plastic, like pushing through layers of varnish and glue. Within 20 minutes the mids and tweeters had kind of melted a bit, and were showing much more warmth. After a few days of occasional heavy duty work, like the Notre Dame organ on SACD etc, the woofers are not showing much sign of loosening: they are a very stiff speaker, with a 250W rating, and it still confuses me about how they can match the sensitivity of the front drivers. I suppose if they did move a lot, they'd blow out the front woofer, as they connect to the same air space.

Using TDK's demo CD 'slow frequency sweep', there is slightly disappointing low bass (as yet), too much mid-bass, and a few minor lumps/shouty bits further up. But having tried this over a week or two now, some of the resonances change, odd ones turning out to be bits and pieces in the workshop! Opening the Rolladoor behind changes that mid-bass thing a lot too.

With music, they are a dream come true. Really complex, loud scores, like the end of Prokofiev's 5th Symphony, are incredibly clear and detailed, and speaking as an ex-violinist used to sitting in orchestras, the clarity is so much better than any other speaker I've heard. With the organ music the low bass is truly startling, and all bass seems completely without the resonance/muddiness I'm used to hearing with Bass Reflex cabs.

One really obvious point is that these speakers require a lower volume setting on the amplifier. My Cyrus 8 DAC usually sits on -27dB for serious listening; with these I get the same pain level, with a much bigger soundscape, in a much bigger space, at -30dB.

The dispersion is heaps better too: walking around, and even outside the room, they sound well balanced. Sound stage? It's very obvious where each instrument is sitting in the recording hall.

Listening to a grand piano (recent Pollini/Chopin/DGG recording) is just beautiful: there's something about the solidness of the speakers matching the solidness of a piano, and it's like there's something in the varnish that matches the sound of real instruments, too. Possibly just an impression, but they say it's the varnish that really helps make a Stradivarius sound so special.

I'm currently playing with Troels' tweak of hanging felt over the rear woofers, to cut the mid-bass a bit, but with initial listening, it sounds like the front ones are being muffled as well. So hard to be objective, so I keep having to turn all lights off, with every new placement.

Other stuff will have to wait, I think, as I fiddle more. I tilted them up 40mm at the front the other day (mainly to direct the front drivers at my head), and the bass seems clearer again, not being echoed back into the horn so much. Don't tell me I have to rebuild the feet please!

With the finish, I am OK. The minor faults are just for me to know about; they still look great. It feels like a privilege to have worked with such beautiful timbers.

So overall, and after a couple of weeks now, the thing I enjoy most is the clarity, and their ability to present huge complex scores, in detail, without effort. Being able to hear so much more in my recordings is not just a cliché: it's a powerful experience.

PS: Would anybody know of a good CD, or routine, for burning in woofers? I can't find the recommended Eminence procedure that I read somewhere on a forum...

#94 Sierra

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 04:12 PM

Thanks Brian ... a great description of how the sound is evolving ... I've been dying to hear what your thoughts were.

It sure is a change moving from build mode into listen mode and the expectation of how it will all sound ... I've gone through this a few times with my
car audio interests.

Your experence seems to follow the general trend ... they sound pretty ordinary upon initial fire up until things start to loosen up and then the magic
happens when all the drivers are properly run in.
Are you listening to them in your garage?? Not the an environment condusive to good SQ :P
Where will their permanent location be?

The Eminence drivers will require a long run in period as they are very stiff when new.
I would give them at least 200 hours before doing any critical listening and tuning.
The "tweaks" you are doing or planning on doing now may not even be nessassary once the drivers are properly broken in.

I would suggest that trying to do any tuning now with them still being so green will just confuse the issue later down the track.
Keep your steps simple ... run them in ... locate them in your final location and position ... then start your critical listening and tuning if needed
from there.

It's really exciting to hear your comments on how good they are at resolving detail in complex musical passages and how the bass response is "startling"
on organ music at such an early stage of their life.
Cant wait to hear all this for myself in the near future :)

As far as the burning in procedure for the Eminence woofers ... just use them normally.
They don't need to be cranked to withing a mm of their x-max to run them in.

The process I will be using is to run them every day at low listening levels ... well low enough so that is doesn't annoy the wife ... LOL
So I'll turn the system on when I get home from work and turn it off when I go to bed that night ... that will give me 6 to 7 hours running each day.
I'll just run the radio from the Tuner most of the time ... switching perhaps to a CD that has a bit of bass from time to time (Black Eyed Peas or
similar) and then turn the system up a bit when ever I find myself home alone ;)

Perhaps you could adopt something similar ... if you have tone controls you could boost up the bass a little bit just to get the woofers moving a touch
more.

I really don't have anything classical in my collection so looking to remedy that.

Any suggestions for CD's (or vinyl) of piano recordings which has lots of dynamics in them? ... and perhaps some pipe organ stuff with deep bass notes?
And since you are an ex violinist perhaps you can recomend some some well recorded violin material too :)
I have a 30th Anniversary Sampler CD from Reference Recordings which has Franz Liszt: Prelude on B-A-C-H by Felix Hell on a pipe organ which has some seriously low bass extension as it makes the 8" driver on my Audax's break out in cone flap ... cant wait to hear how the DTQWT's deal with this once run in
:)


So glad that you are happy with your build and the finish you achieved ... they look really good!
Looking forward to further updates from you as you get more hours on them ... for now ... Enjoy!! :)

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#95 peacewise

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 04:38 PM

Cool thread and build, thanks for the read.
Jriver 17 on near passive PC > usb > nuwave dac > GraveScience XLR > HK990 > GraveScience Cables > vaf i66 & platform2 sub.

For sale threads :
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#96 Sierra

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Posted 26 December 2012 - 04:53 PM

Thanks for the kind words peacewise :)

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#97 Sierra

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 10:25 AM

Another little update.

Since discovering that the midrange driver and waveguide no longer fitted into the cutouts of the front baffle I've had to do some delicate rework to make them fit.
The next question was how to do that without damaging the finish.


First up was to put some low tack masking tape around the edge so that should I accidentally slip I wouldn't damage the finish and secondly it wouldhopefully protect the surface of the laquer from chipping etc while sanding away at the edge.
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I used 80 grit emery cloth followed by 180 grit cut into a little strip and then wrapped around a 3" PVC downpipe end I had laying around in the garage.
Thanks BioBrian for sugesting this type of sanding method ... it was really the only way of doing it I think.
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Slow painstaking sanding process ... not fun at all ...
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Finally the midrange driver fits as it was supposed to.
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I've temporarily taken over the lounge room and turned it into my work area ... I'm trying to be very carefull with the finish so I don't scratch or
dent it ... so carpet covered with a soft blanket makes an ideal surface to work on.

Another bonus of taking over the lounge room is I get to listen to good quality tunes while I work ... and break in my new Usher S520's :D
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There is quite a bit to sand before the wave guide fits again.
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Masking tape around the wave guide.
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Sanding, sanding and more sanding ...
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Finally the wave guide fits again ... along with the midrange.
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Masking tape removed and all dusted down.
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Finaly everything fitted as it originally did ... and no scratches ... woo-hoo!!!
The only casualties are sore fingers and sore knees after doing both cabinets :P
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*Note to self* ... Next time make driver cut outs at least 1mm bigger in diameter than the drivers!


Till the next update ... Thanks for looking. :)

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#98 cheekyboy

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 01:23 PM

*Note to self* ... Next time make driver cut outs at least 1mm bigger in diameter than the drivers!



Hi Alan,

I've been following your build and it looks great, mate. They must be close to a listen now?

With your hole cutouts, it always pays to make a trial fit with the router and jig in some scrap material, before you make the final cutout in the actual baffle. :thumb:

Cheers,

Keith

Edited by cheekyboy, 01 January 2013 - 01:34 PM.

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#99 Sierra

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 03:09 PM

Thanks for the kind words Keith :)

Still a little bit more work to do till we have music ... but it's getting closer ...

Thing is we did trial the routing on some scrap ... and were really happy with how good a fit we made it at the time.
Unfortunately we didn't even consider the thickness of the finish on the cutouts or the timber movement of the front baffle pulling the hole cutouts out of round.

Guess that's what happens when you are a speaker building nube ... Live and Learn :)

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#100 cheekyboy

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 03:24 PM

That's a good point, Alan, as I've had the same experience with Jarrah continuing to move. Have you considered that movement may not have finished yet? Could be wise not to drill your holes for fixing till you're ready to fit the drivers?

Cheers,

Keith

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#101 Sierra

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 03:55 PM

There might still be some movement left in the Jarrah Keith but I'm hoping it won't cause any more problems.

The bolt holes have already been done and thread inserts already fitted to the front baffle.
However they still line up fine with the wave guide and the midrange so I'm OK on that point :)

I havent done the thread inserts into the rear baffle for the woofers yet but when I trial fitted them last week they looked fine too.

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#102 BioBrian

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 08:30 PM

Well done again, Sierra! Some inspiring and very colourful photos. The black drivers make the timbers stand out even better.

The shrinkage of your timber is an issue we plywood users have not had to anticipate. I hope it doesn't continue to the point of splitting the timber later.
You asked about piano music with good dynamics: it appears you've answered your own question:
"There might still be some movement left in the Jarrah Keith"!... The opening of his (Keith Jarrett) 'Staircase' piano album used to appeal to me, although others rave about his 'Koln Concert'.

I use an OPPO BRP-83SE, which does SACD, DVD-audio, HDCD, etc, and have some favorite discs for that, eg the SACD "Midnight at Notre Dame" with Olivier Latry playing: the DGG recording is superb. But your organ CD might do the same job, by the sounds...

For normal CD, Krystian Zimerman playing Ravel's 2 Piano Concertos with Pierre Boulez conducting (DGG) is another outstanding recording, and some of the music is to die for.

Christian Thieleman conducting Richard Strauss' Alpine Symphony, also DGG, is one of the best recordings I know, and it was of a live concert of the Vienna Philharmonic, which has been called "the best orchestra in the world" when in full flight. The music paints a picture of a journey up a mountain, with dawn, and a storm, etc, giving a massive variety of orchestral sounds.

I have to say that fitting my woofers was a total dream using the 14ga self-tappers: they just went in, all 32 of them, in seconds, with an electric screw driver (Makita roofing driver on lowest torque setting). They just feel right; really solid and neat. Sorry if my opinion seems a bit harsh, but stuff those bushes: I'll not be trying that again! I believe the self-tappers get a better air seal, and they fit the 7mm woofer holes perfectly. Too late for you though? I have to paint them black, without painting the bare aluminium woofer edges. I'll put in a pic of them, which also is an adjunct to my 'Christmas Post', where I mentioned the epoxy glue, and ripping the edges of Baltic Birch ply:

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Sounds like you'll be finished soon, if not by now. I suppose we won't be satisfied until you get a camera on those binder post plates to show on your screen while not watching movies! The tension mounts...

Edited by BioBrian, 02 January 2013 - 07:14 AM.


#103 DQ828

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Posted 01 January 2013 - 08:51 PM

Very nice work well done

#104 Sierra

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 09:47 AM

Hey BioBrian ...

It's all starting to come together nicely :)

Very clever on the Keith Jarret comment ... LOL
Thanks so much for all those CD recomendations ... cant wait to add them to my collection.
My CD player (Arcam Alpha 9) will play both SACD & HDCD ... so no problems with any of the disc's you've mentioned.

Now where would be the best place to find those titles ... is it something that JB HiFi would stock or do I need to look at places like Amazon?
Also with the CD's you mention are they only recorded on Deutsche Grammophon label or will I need to filter through a number of recording labels to make sure I get DGG recordings?

Regarding the woofers ... yes it is too late for me going back to self tappers the holes are already drilled for the bushes ... no air leaks though as the holes don't go all the way through the baffle.
I don't think there would be too much drama with air leaks anyway as there is no real pressure difference between front and back given the horn enclosure.

Well get cracking and paint those screw heads black :)

Still got a little bit to do yet before they are finished or at least before I can connect them up and have music.
Haven't finished the crossovers yet ... or made up my mind about the feet ... although that wont stop me from firing them up ... I'll just sit them on 90 x 45 battons temporarily.

What I have been umm-ing and ahh-ing about is the internal wiring between the crossovers and the drivers ...
As you mentioned because of all the negativity surrounding the supplied silver plated copper wire that you went for straight copper instead ...
So I've been considering both of those options as well as even more esoteric internal wiring ... but the prices are rather steep.

Given that these speakers for me are a kind of no compromise build and they will be a keeper I am tempted to spend the extra money if I get some tangeble benefits from them.

But there are so many different opinions/arguments out there on speaker wire and interconnects and what works and what doesnt ... that I have just thrown my hands up in frustration for the moment.

What I think I will do is build it as it is with the silver coated copper wire and put a couple of hundred hours on them to nicely run in.
Then I can look and making some mods from there ... Duelund caps in the crossovers perhaps and maybe changing the internal wiring.




Very nice work well done


Thanks DQ828 ... I'm very happy with how they are comming along.

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#105 Paul Spencer

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 11:41 AM

Getting a too tight fitting on drivers - a very easy mistake to make. You might get it just right, and then clear finish goes on .......

Personally I like a relatively tight fit - loose enough that you can remove drivers without having to whack them out with a hammer, tight enough that you don't see an obvious gap.

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#106 Sierra

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Posted 02 January 2013 - 10:24 PM

Getting a too tight fitting on drivers - a very easy mistake to make. You might get it just right, and then clear finish goes on .......
Thats pretty well what happened ... guess I'm not the first one to make that mistake.

 
Personally I like a relatively tight fit - loose enough that you can remove drivers without having to whack them out with a hammer, tight enough that you don't see an obvious gap.
That would be the ideal ... and what we tried to do but it didn't quite work out :)

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#107 Sierra

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:15 PM

Next up ...


Time to mount the tweeters to the wave guides.
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Marking out the locations for drilling the self tappers holes.
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Holes drilled and countersunk slightly to take away the raised edge.
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Pre-screwing the self tappers into the waveguide. The material is very tough and requires a lot of pressure on the screwdriver so dont want to be doing that with a delicate tweeter around.
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One down ... one to go.
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Both finished.
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Trial fitting into the cabinet ... it still fits :)
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Thanks for looking.

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#108 shaky

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 12:54 PM

Not much to go now? They look great.

WORDS FAIL, MUSIC SPEAKS.

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#109 BATMAQN

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 01:09 PM

Another little update.

Since discovering that the midrange driver and waveguide no longer fitted into the cutouts of the front baffle I've had to do some delicate rework to make them fit.
The next question was how to do that without damaging the finish.


First up was to put some low tack masking tape around the edge so that should I accidentally slip I wouldn't damage the finish and secondly it wouldhopefully protect the surface of the laquer from chipping etc while sanding away at the edge.
attachicon.gif01_DSCF2047.JPG



I used 80 grit emery cloth followed by 180 grit cut into a little strip and then wrapped around a 3" PVC downpipe end I had laying around in the garage.
Thanks BioBrian for sugesting this type of sanding method ... it was really the only way of doing it I think.
attachicon.gif02_DSCF2051.JPG
attachicon.gif03_DSCF2119.JPG



Slow painstaking sanding process ... not fun at all ...
attachicon.gif04_DSCF2049.JPG



Finally the midrange driver fits as it was supposed to.
attachicon.gif05_DSCF2120.JPG
attachicon.gif06_DSCF2087.JPG



I've temporarily taken over the lounge room and turned it into my work area ... I'm trying to be very carefull with the finish so I don't scratch or
dent it ... so carpet covered with a soft blanket makes an ideal surface to work on.

Another bonus of taking over the lounge room is I get to listen to good quality tunes while I work ... and break in my new Usher S520's :D
attachicon.gif07_DSCF2053.JPG
attachicon.gif07a_DSCF2091.JPG



There is quite a bit to sand before the wave guide fits again.
attachicon.gif08_DSCF2092.JPG
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Masking tape around the wave guide.
attachicon.gif10_DSCF2094.JPG



Sanding, sanding and more sanding ...
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Finally the wave guide fits again ... along with the midrange.
attachicon.gif12_DSCF2103.JPG
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Masking tape removed and all dusted down.
attachicon.gif14_DSCF2108.JPG



Finaly everything fitted as it originally did ... and no scratches ... woo-hoo!!!
The only casualties are sore fingers and sore knees after doing both cabinets :P
attachicon.gif15_DSCF2134.JPG
attachicon.gif16_DSCF2135.JPG


*Note to self* ... Next time make driver cut outs at least 1mm bigger in diameter than the drivers!


Till the next update ... Thanks for looking. :)

Excellent job and clever man on your sanding technique, necessity is the mother of all invention.


THE FNG :cool: AND I AM THE DUCK!!!

 

 

Main System Amps Yamaha 2x AX-1070, Pre Yamaha CX-2, Luxman SQ503, DAC Audio Gd19, CD/DVD Yamaha DVD-S567, Turntable Omnitronic DD-2250, Graphic Eq Yamaha EQ-330, Macbook Pro, Speakers Rogers LS7.

 

Theatre LG 60 inch Plasma, Apple TV3, Amps Denon PMA1080R x2, DAC Matrix Mini I, B&W DM630, Audio Definition Duets, Subwoofer DTX one of the big ones. 

 

Cables Mojo Van den Hul, Racks DIY.

 

Headphone Audio-Gd C2one, Grado SR325 modded, Grado SR80, Alessandro MS1, Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro. 

 

Bedroom Denon Amp SA 3900, Tuner Denon ST 3900, B&W Matrix series 1, Pioneer 43 inch Plasma, Apple TV3

 

iMac 27 setup Odac and Audioengine A5+ speakers.


#110 Sierra

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 01:17 PM

Thanks shaky ...

Still a little bit to do yet ...
Currently working on building the crossovers and a bit more work on the cabinets ... fitting the thread bushes for the socket head bolts for the woofers ... adding some more damping material where I missed earlier when the cabinets were going together ... then the internal wiring ... then the feet still need to be done to support the cabinets with a 40mm gap from the floor ...

So still a little bit to do ... I'm not going to rush to finish it ... there is no timefame for completion :)

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#111 Sierra

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Posted 05 January 2013 - 01:34 PM

Excellent job and clever man on your sanding technique, necessity is the mother of all invention.

Thank you ... not something I want to do again though ... it just took forever and killed my fingers and knees :D

Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#112 Sierra

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 01:49 PM

Another little update:


Next step was to install the threaded bushes for the 4mm socket head screws.

These actually took a lot longer to install than I had expected.


Because of their short length it was really difficult to get them to go in perfectly straight square and it took me ages to get each one right.

The mounting holes on the Deltalite's dont leave much room around them ... in fact they are very awkwardly designed so accurate alignment of the threaded bushes is critical to get the bolt holes to line up properly.

 

 

 

These litttle buggers gave me so much grief!

Attached File  01_DSCF2254.JPG   120.53KB   60 downloads

Attached File  02_DSCF2256.JPG   119.82KB   57 downloads

Attached File  03_DSCF2234.JPG   133.12KB   59 downloads

Attached File  04_DSCF2237.JPG   113.25KB   67 downloads

 

 

 

Finally done ... all straight and square.

Attached File  05_DSCF2260.JPG   117.32KB   64 downloads

Attached File  06_DSCF2261.JPG   135.02KB   63 downloads

 

 

 

Bushes and speaker holes line up.

Attached File  07_DSCF2263.JPG   147.86KB   59 downloads

 

 

 

Final test fitting of each driver individually with all socket heads to make sure everything fits.

Attached File  08_DSCF2240.JPG   200.27KB   59 downloads

Attached File  9_DSCF2269.JPG   120.96KB   62 downloads

 

 

 

View from the inside.

Attached File  10_DSCF2246.JPG   122.97KB   70 downloads

Attached File  11_DSCF2271.JPG   110.64KB   69 downloads

 

 

 

Thanks for looking


Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#113 BATMAQN

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Posted 13 January 2013 - 03:20 PM

Nothing is ever easy they are looking very nice.


THE FNG :cool: AND I AM THE DUCK!!!

 

 

Main System Amps Yamaha 2x AX-1070, Pre Yamaha CX-2, Luxman SQ503, DAC Audio Gd19, CD/DVD Yamaha DVD-S567, Turntable Omnitronic DD-2250, Graphic Eq Yamaha EQ-330, Macbook Pro, Speakers Rogers LS7.

 

Theatre LG 60 inch Plasma, Apple TV3, Amps Denon PMA1080R x2, DAC Matrix Mini I, B&W DM630, Audio Definition Duets, Subwoofer DTX one of the big ones. 

 

Cables Mojo Van den Hul, Racks DIY.

 

Headphone Audio-Gd C2one, Grado SR325 modded, Grado SR80, Alessandro MS1, Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro. 

 

Bedroom Denon Amp SA 3900, Tuner Denon ST 3900, B&W Matrix series 1, Pioneer 43 inch Plasma, Apple TV3

 

iMac 27 setup Odac and Audioengine A5+ speakers.


#114 Sierra

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 12:34 AM

Thanks BATMAQN :)

 

Working on the crossovers at the moment.


Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#115 shaky

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Posted 15 January 2013 - 07:49 AM

Hey Sierra, how'd you guarantee those Tnuts went in straight? Did you use a bolt as a guide or some other method? Ate they just screwed in or fixed with glue etc?

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#116 Sierra

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 12:38 AM

Hey Shaky ...

 

I used a socket head bolt and screwed it into each bush individually and visually checked for squareness and adjusted as needed ... I have a good eye for that sort of thing :)

 

They are just screwed in ... no need for glue in this application.


Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#117 Paul Spencer

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Posted 16 January 2013 - 09:43 AM

The easiest way to get the holes square is CNC (although that also adds issues because you have to know exactly what you want) ... the next easiest is to use a drill press and machine the driver recess before assembling the box.


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#118 Sierra

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Posted 17 January 2013 - 05:28 PM

CNC mill would be perfect ... and even a drill press would be great ... set the depth you need and no danger of going too far and drilling right through.

Alas ... just had to make do with a hand drill :)


Phono Source - Modified Rega Planar 3, Modified RB300 Tonearm, Ortofon Cadenza Black MC Cartridge
Phono Stage - Vacuum Tube Audio PH-16
CD Source - Arcam Alpha 9
Pre Amp - Vacuum Tube Audio SP-14
Power Amp - Bob Latino Dynaco ST-120
Secondary Amp - Jungson JA-88D
Main Speakers - Troels Gravesen DTQWT MkII
Secondary Speakers - Usher S520


#119 BioBrian

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 10:49 AM

Because I've had some interest, and because the front baffle is the main difference between the 2 current versions of this speaker, I thought I'd add a missing part of my drama.

 

I wanted a good seal, without the worry of solid wood moving and threatening the integrity of the glue joints, so decided on ply to cover right to the side panels, but didn't want the ply edge showing. Also, I could only get widths of 300mm from the sheets I had, and the total speaker width is 330mm (used the same but double-laminated, for the rear baffles). I used Baltic Birch, which my supplier had as 16.5mm thick. To make up the suggested 40mm baffle thickness, I laminated with the same 24mm BB ply that I used for the sides and tops. Then came the quadruple-angle edge that Troels specifies as necessary for "sound projection into the room", and to "reduce the delayed response of baffle edge diffraction". It's much easier to explain by posting the drawing etc:

Attached File  3142 - 1200 x 900.jpg   109.88KB   64 downloads

The Myrtle was the easiest part. The headache next was how to fill in the rest. I chose to do it in 2 parts, the first to go to the edge of the ply. I trimmed the angles down as I went, and was able to put the baffle inside-up and run the router along to trim both ply and Celery-top to a flat edge. I chose the moment to glue the baffles on, leaving the last strip for later:

Attached File  3149 Gluing on baffle 1200 x 900.jpg   137.88KB   69 downloads

Then the smallest strips on the edge. You'd think that if a piece of wood was curved, you could straighten it a bit with the buzzer, but no, every time I took a bit off, it curled up more! I just had to get the 2 gluing surfaces as flat and square as possible. Thought some might get some amusement from my attempts to tame it: I can count 12 clamps here, and a pile of bricks, and the chain is because I only had one sash clamp long enough. And this is only 1 of 4 strips...

Attached File  3157 Very lively Celery Top - 1200 x 900.jpg   119.58KB   59 downloads

The rest was surprisingly easy: I put the speaker on its side, and used the big expensive 45 degree router bit, which I thought I'd only get to use once on the job (chamfering the rear of the front woofer hole):

Attached File  3164 - Routing edge strip to 45 deg 1200 x 900.jpg   113.68KB   62 downloads

I couldn't use the edge trim bit on the angled surfaces, so I made up a jig to extend the flat surface and give a straight edge to run along. You might notice the threaded rod and wing-nuts, which saved about $100 on 900mm clamps:

Attached File  3176 - Jig for trimming ends 900 x 675.jpg   70.98KB   63 downloads

After some nightmares with even a very sharp hand plane cutting jagged bits where the grain changes, it all sanded down OK. The Baltic Birch has some amazing 3D-like beauty.

Attached File  3212 - Fr baffle finish 1200 x 900.jpg   68.79KB   66 downloads

Attached File  3204 Fr baffle top 1200 x 900.jpg   79.33KB   55 downloads

Hope this is of interest to readers, while Sierra's project comes to fruition.

 

Cheers from BioBrian.


Edited by BioBrian, 21 January 2013 - 07:06 PM.


#120 niss_man

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Posted 21 January 2013 - 04:16 PM

'sierra' are you perchance using laminated mdf in plantation oak? Looks alot like the last speakers I made. Sent from my LT26i using Tapatalk 2